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My New Racer - TNX Pro
- Thread starter RushRC
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #3
It comes with the power strokes and the bowties and rims. Also comes with a Blue Aluminum Head. I will install the PS shocks MIP CVDs, MIP Clutch Kit, and a few other parts - so far I am really impressed with it!!
Looks "Simple" Lots of room to work on stuff.
Ill be interested in your feedback.
Ill be interested in your feedback.
Paris Hilton WITH clothing....
yea thatd be cool but first like get a full 360 degreese around it. so we can see it more (new) b 4 you go drive it, get dirty, break, etc. 
man that tnx is soo cool it like comes modded!
i love that body too
not very many ppl w/ tnx's (on rcnt) and I've only seen one in person and it wasn't the pro one. it was justa tnx
man that tnx is soo cool it like comes modded!
i love that body too
not very many ppl w/ tnx's (on rcnt) and I've only seen one in person and it wasn't the pro one. it was justa tnx
- Thread starter
- #13
http://people.aol.com/people/searchresults?search=paris+hilton they will have some of her in clothing lolFastEddy said:
vbgagnon
RCTalk VIP
If you go crazy like you did with that reevoh this thing is going to be nutz!
- Thread starter
- #17
Break-IN
After checking all the carb settings were to spec it and the servos aligned properly it was time to fire it up...
Tamiya recommends using 20% nitro for the break-in process so I will be using a quart of Byrons 20% RTR for the process and then towards the end will start mixing in Byrons 30% to slowly switch to the 30% Race Blend.
One of the first things you will notice on the Electric starter is a Automotive 20amp fuse.
Fill the tank, press the primer button 3 times and it is ready to fire. On the first attempt I blew the fuse!! Why? Well I filled the tank too much and when the lid closed it pushed fuel well into the lines - then I pushed the primer 3 times and that flooded the motor and when I pressed the start button a few times in row the fuse blew due to the over load. This is a signal to make sure I carry extra fuses as that would totally suck to blow one and not be able to get it started.
Once the fuse was replaced and the extra fuel cleared it started on the first attempt!! Instructions are to run it till half tank and let cool for 10 minutes. The motor did not die one time and ideled perfectly!!
After cool down fill the tank again and richen the HSN 1/2 turn and then drive the truck in large ovals with slow steady increase to 1/2 throttle and release.
Started perfectly and never died during this tank - so far so good! I also noticed that the instructions, which are good and the included DVD is great, mentions to run the tank ALMOST empty. I would imagine that this would prevent the truck from leaning out at the end of the tank.
After cool down fill the tank again and lean the HSN 1/8th turn and run the truck again in large ovals with gradual increase to 1/2 throttle. It is also ok to increase to full throttle but do not hold it there but for a few seconds.
Run it this way for 4 tanks.
On tank 3 I deviated from the manual and started to introduce the 30% Nitro mixing a 3/4 tank 20% and 1/4 tank 30%.
On tank 4 I went 1/2 20% and 1/2 30%.
Again run tank to ALMOST empty and be sure to cool down minimal 10 to 15 minutes between tanks.
The motor did not die one time during the break-in procedure and started almost everytime on the first attempt. My hats off to Tamiya and O.S. for this motor. It seems to have PLENTY of power. On the last tank I did manage a nice wheelie!! The brakes are very strong and if not careful you will land the TNX on its lid! I feel the need for an ABS setting for the radio soon...
I have ran 2 tanks since the break-in and so far I am loving the truck. I have not changed the truck or added any of the "PRO" upgrade parts. I have built the MIP CVDs and they are ready to be added. I am thinking of trying it at the track first with the stock axels and then switching to the CVDs to get a feel for the difference.
I did drag a Hot Bodies Lightning Stadium Pro on the 5th tank and the HB won but a tad. I am sure once the motor is tuned in it will be able to beat the .26 powered HB.
Steering is very responsive with the stock equipment so I can only imagine what it will be like with a new servo and the addition of the Proline Shocks and I will add 40 Series Tires/wheels.
more to come....
After checking all the carb settings were to spec it and the servos aligned properly it was time to fire it up...
Tamiya recommends using 20% nitro for the break-in process so I will be using a quart of Byrons 20% RTR for the process and then towards the end will start mixing in Byrons 30% to slowly switch to the 30% Race Blend.
One of the first things you will notice on the Electric starter is a Automotive 20amp fuse.
Fill the tank, press the primer button 3 times and it is ready to fire. On the first attempt I blew the fuse!! Why? Well I filled the tank too much and when the lid closed it pushed fuel well into the lines - then I pushed the primer 3 times and that flooded the motor and when I pressed the start button a few times in row the fuse blew due to the over load. This is a signal to make sure I carry extra fuses as that would totally suck to blow one and not be able to get it started.
Once the fuse was replaced and the extra fuel cleared it started on the first attempt!! Instructions are to run it till half tank and let cool for 10 minutes. The motor did not die one time and ideled perfectly!!
After cool down fill the tank again and richen the HSN 1/2 turn and then drive the truck in large ovals with slow steady increase to 1/2 throttle and release.
Started perfectly and never died during this tank - so far so good! I also noticed that the instructions, which are good and the included DVD is great, mentions to run the tank ALMOST empty. I would imagine that this would prevent the truck from leaning out at the end of the tank.
After cool down fill the tank again and lean the HSN 1/8th turn and run the truck again in large ovals with gradual increase to 1/2 throttle. It is also ok to increase to full throttle but do not hold it there but for a few seconds.
Run it this way for 4 tanks.
On tank 3 I deviated from the manual and started to introduce the 30% Nitro mixing a 3/4 tank 20% and 1/4 tank 30%.
On tank 4 I went 1/2 20% and 1/2 30%.
Again run tank to ALMOST empty and be sure to cool down minimal 10 to 15 minutes between tanks.
The motor did not die one time during the break-in procedure and started almost everytime on the first attempt. My hats off to Tamiya and O.S. for this motor. It seems to have PLENTY of power. On the last tank I did manage a nice wheelie!! The brakes are very strong and if not careful you will land the TNX on its lid! I feel the need for an ABS setting for the radio soon...
I have ran 2 tanks since the break-in and so far I am loving the truck. I have not changed the truck or added any of the "PRO" upgrade parts. I have built the MIP CVDs and they are ready to be added. I am thinking of trying it at the track first with the stock axels and then switching to the CVDs to get a feel for the difference.
I did drag a Hot Bodies Lightning Stadium Pro on the 5th tank and the HB won but a tad. I am sure once the motor is tuned in it will be able to beat the .26 powered HB.
Steering is very responsive with the stock equipment so I can only imagine what it will be like with a new servo and the addition of the Proline Shocks and I will add 40 Series Tires/wheels.
more to come....
Last edited:
AC48
Hardcore RCTalk User
Only becuase the stock motor blows! I'd like to see that thing take on my Wasp .28 powered LSP!!RushRC said:
But seriously, that looks like a pretty cool truck. I've just never been a fan of Tamiya. Get those pro parts and some more pics up!
That fuse sure was a good idea, but I bet noobs will get pissed off soooo many times cause of it haha.
AC48 said:Only becuase the stock motor blows! I'd like to see that thing take on my Wasp .28 powered LSP!!
Id like to see that thing take on my Nova .28 powerd MSR, j/k. You would kill me my throttle servo just died lol.
