My Losi 1/10 "Comp" Crawler

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that makes sense. shouldnt of happened but makes sense.
 
you are right about the breakage. i had mip shafts in my axial and the pin slipped down just like yours was. it slipped under a load and my tranny output went POP.

DSC01736.gif

DSC01737.gif
 
you are right about the breakage. i had mip shafts in my axial and the pin slipped down just like yours was. it slipped under a load and my tranny output went POP.

DSC01736.gif

DSC01737.gif

I can't tell from the pic, but I don't think the reason your output popped is because of the pin slipping, I had the same thing happen to me using the same drive lines and it is just because the stock Axial outputs suck, if you notice there is very little metal holding it together there, and after a while it just gets week and snaps, it is a very common thing with the Axial outputs. :\
 
I can't tell from the pic, but I don't think the reason your output popped is because of the pin slipping, I had the same thing happen to me using the same drive lines and it is just because the stock Axial outputs suck, if you notice there is very little metal holding it together there, and after a while it just gets week and snaps, it is a very common thing with the Axial outputs. :\

tell that to the bent cross-shaft in the mip cvd.


it slipped, got wedged and locked up the front axle under a load. Granted it was a weak goat setup in there but it was enough to snap the output.
 
tell that to the bent cross-shaft in the mip cvd.


it slipped, got wedged and locked up the front axle under a load. Granted it was a weak goat setup in there but it was enough to snap the output.

That will do it every time, LOL!!!!! but those Axial outputs are pretty weak, and now you have an excuse to upgrade:D, LOL!!!!!!:hehe:
 
so the pins is what causing the cvs break- so in testing there wouldn't be that because they built their car by hand...so it is manufacturing fault for putting in shorter pins in -- what about the overheating would grease fix that in the worm drive------ So now there isn't really nothing wrong with the car- just an hour of work to fix it and another hour or two to put electronics in and it is ready to crawl--- if there is nothing else wrong
 
The short pin would have caused the CV joint to fail and probably break the shaft.

It is not the main cause of all the failures.

The main cause is over cutting the slots at the ball end of the CV shaft which is a manufacturing error. This error has been fixed and replacement shafts have the correct cuts.

This pic posted on RCCrawler shows what the problem is. On the left are the new replacement shafts and on the right are the old shafts. Mine look like the one on the right and I have requested replacements.

cvds006.jpg
 
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Let me just say right now that Losi has by far the best customer service I have ever dealt with.

Once email to Rich T. the product manager at Team Losi and I have a new set of CV's on their way to my door.

It's too bad the fab error occurred in the first place and caused the problems, but at least Losi found and fixed the problem as soon as they heard and is making things right for all those who bought this rig.

They get a 3 thumbs up!
 
So basically all the durability problems are essentially a failure to control quality, rather than design issues.?.?.
 
So it seems for the CV joint.
 
Since I will be waiting a couple of days for the revised CV's I snapped a few pics

Here is an axle comparison of both the Losi and Axial rears.
axles.jpg


I was going to use my Maxamps 3S 2000 pack, but it would have been a snug fit. I opted for a pair of these which came in today.
batts.jpg


Here are the electrics. The 7955 is supposed to go on my SWX Axial. I am temporarily using it on the Losi until the 7950TH I have on order comes in a couple months. The Spektrum is a 3520. I don't think they can make them any smaller.
losi_stuff.jpg


Wheel and tire combo. I will be starting with 3 slugs in the fronts and none in the rears.
vanquish.jpg
 
Should be sweet , So you going to install all your electronics while your waiting for the new CVD's?
 
I will continue and just swap out the new CV's when they arrive.

Spent a couple of hours yesterday morning soldering deans connectors to the batts and ESC's with the BEC's. Along with the electrics for this rig, I went ahead and did the electrics for my MRC project and the conversion of my ERevo to brushless project.

When your iron is pushing 900 degrees, it really burns to poke yourself in the finger with the tip. The good thing is that the wound is instantly cauterized. Ahhhhh....the smell of burnt flesh in the morning. LMAO
 
I would like to point out then when I got my second Axial ARTR and ran it stock, I popped one of the drive shafts within 5 minutes. I also saw it happen 4 times at the last comp I attended. You either need to get the Axial reinforcing rings, or C-Splines to make sure it doesn't happen.

Not for nothing but even with the rings, I kept popping the Axial shafts until I switched out to Pedes
 
Hat's off to Losi.

Received my new CV shafts and a CV joint repair kit today.

Can't beat 1 business day service.
 
When your iron is pushing 900 degrees, it really burns to poke yourself in the finger with the tip. The good thing is that the wound is instantly cauterized. Ahhhhh....the smell of burnt flesh in the morning. LMAO

Good thing you didn't poke the third thumb!
 
You need to get your car together tell and us how it runs

i feel left out cause i'm the only other person with a losi, i think
 
I would call myself a slacker if it wasn't for the fact I have been rebuilt the diffs on a 5B and 5T. Repaired my Slash so I can race it. Converted my ERevo to brushless and did some mods to my new ERevo VXL. All done after I took the Losi apart.

Putting this rig back together is next on my list now that I have picked up some pinions to use.

I hate working on rigs when I don't have all the parts.
 
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