Must have upgrades for Losi Mini-t

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Minishaman

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If there's not already a thread for essential upgrades for the Mini T brushed and brushless, I'd like to start one here.

This is just for the bare minimum parts upgrades that are needed for performance, not for bling or flair. For example I read that steering rods are needed to take slop out of the steering. Also people have been breaking front bulkhead - stuff like that.

This is for people getting started with the Mini T/B - not necessarily for hardcore competition racers.
 
Hey! Welcome!

I got a Mini B myself. Check out my build thread.
Mini T 2.0 and Mini B share 95% of the same parts.
My B, used to race it, now I ideally only track bash it and use it around the house on my basement mini track. As the old local carpet track closed up. My buddy, which was the owner of that old track is still looking for a new spot ATM so I'm really excited to get this thing racing again, but I don't get my hopes up that he would find another spot as getting a spot running and operating is expensive.

Parts in BOLD is what I suggest first before anything else
Gonna list some parts I upgraded myself for durability, and somewhat performance

  • Hot Racing Front bulkhead (aluminum) - stock plastic likes to break on hard crashes
  • Hot Racing Steering bellcrank (aluminum) - plastic has lots of slop
  • HackFab RC Wide Carbon Fiber front shock tower - broke multiple stock plastic ones before. Upgraded to a cheap amazon CF tower and broke right away, this HackFab one is pretty durable. Used CA glue on the edges to strengthen it up a bit. So far so good.
  • Hot Racing Servo Saver for Savox - Aluminum - I use this cause I run a savox servo which is a BEAST, great decent price servo, as the stock spektrum one and ecopower 827 servos are a bit cheap and like to burn up. Had that issue myself.
  • Losi Aluminum servo mounts (stock plastic ones stripped out on me)
  • Losi Aluminum shocks (not the TLR tuned ones) broke the plastic ones by losing the shock spring retainer. With the aluminum ones, I super glued the spring retainer to the spring so it doesn't come flying off
  • Running stock rear plastic shock tower ATM as I used to have a cheapo amazon CF tower which broke right away.
  • Cheapo amazon aluminum gear case (stock plastic one I had broke apart where the ball stud for the camber link went in)
  • MIP Slipper clutch assembly and pads (aluminum plates and better / longer wear pads)
  • Losi Aluminum motor mount upgrade (adjustable motor mount and slotted for motor heat)
Other parts I run such as electronics tires and body here:
  • JConcepts F2 Body and Wing (I like the shape of it better, and more thicker / durable lexan plastic over the stock Losi ones)
- For the Mini T, I would go with the ProLine body they have for it.
  • ProLine Prism/Wedge tires (for carpet track and my basement track)
  • JConcepts ellipse / Stock BK Bar (for outside backyard and hardpack dirt/clay tracks)
  • Cheapo amazon surpass hobbies (king val) 35A/2435 6100kv ESC/Motor Combo (I love it! Super fast and ESC has lots of tune-able settings)
  • Savox SH-0255MG Servo (I think I am right)
  • RadioLink RX/TX
  • Urgenex 1100 2s 35C batteries with Deans plug (20 bucks for a pair of 2 on amazon, super great batteries for the price! Stays balanced and fairly low IRs)

Build Thread: https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/losi-mini-b-club-racer-build.138622/
Mini Basement track thread: https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/davids-basement-mini-track-private-just-for-show.140252/
Old carpet track thread: https://www.rctalk.com/forum/thread...ne-racing-1-10-off-road-carpet-racing.137429/

As it sits now, broken. Gonna get it running soon for spring break.
Forgot to include this in the main list,
Upgrading to the Losi Aluminum Rear Pivot as that is the part I broke, but it was the stock plastic one.
PXL_20240306_225145185.jpg
PXL_20240306_225135398.jpg


Also forgot that I use a chassis protector. From Losi. Used it as I did race on carpet and wanted to protect it and the car. But even tho you aren't racing, great if you like the look of it, and so you dont scrap up the chassis. I also use velcro on the side rails to hold the body on.
These cars are very popular of the ball cup popping issue. Had that earlier when I started racing. But later on, I drove more carefully and rarely do I have a ball cup snap off on me.
I am still running the stock dogbone axles which like to flyout when the ball cup snaps off the ball stud. Spray painted mine orange so I could see them on the black/grey carpet track. They also like to bend. Planning on upgrading to the TLR Tuned CVAs or the MIP CVDs for it once I do get back to using this car more again.
 
Last edited:
DavidB1126 said:
Hey! Welcome!

I got a Mini B myself. Check out my build thread.
Mini T 2.0 and Mini B share 95% of the same parts.
My B, used to race it, now I ideally only track bash it and use it around the house on my basement mini track. As the old local carpet track closed up. My buddy, which was the owner of that old track is still looking for a new spot ATM so I'm really excited to get this thing racing again, but I don't get my hopes up that he would find another spot as getting a spot running and operating is expensive.

Parts in BOLD is what I suggest first before anything else
Gonna list some parts I upgraded myself for durability, and somewhat performance

  • Hot Racing Front bulkhead (aluminum) - stock plastic likes to break on hard crashes
  • Hot Racing Steering bellcrank (aluminum) - plastic has lots of slop
  • HackFab RC Wide Carbon Fiber front shock tower - broke multiple stock plastic ones before. Upgraded to a cheap amazon CF tower and broke right away, this HackFab one is pretty durable. Used CA glue on the edges to strengthen it up a bit. So far so good.
  • Hot Racing Servo Saver for Savox - Aluminum - I use this cause I run a savox servo which is a BEAST, great decent price servo, as the stock spektrum one and ecopower 827 servos are a bit cheap and like to burn up. Had that issue myself.
  • Losi Aluminum servo mounts (stock plastic ones stripped out on me)
  • Losi Aluminum shocks (not the TLR tuned ones) broke the plastic ones by losing the shock spring retainer. With the aluminum ones, I super glued the spring retainer to the spring so it doesn't come flying off
  • Running stock rear plastic shock tower ATM as I used to have a cheapo amazon CF tower which broke right away.
  • Cheapo amazon aluminum gear case (stock plastic one I had broke apart where the ball stud for the camber link went in)
  • MIP Slipper clutch assembly and pads (aluminum plates and better / longer wear pads)
  • Losi Aluminum motor mount upgrade (adjustable motor mount and slotted for motor heat)
Other parts I run such as electronics tires and body here:
  • JConcepts F2 Body and Wing (I like the shape of it better, and more thicker / durable lexan plastic over the stock Losi ones)
- For the Mini T, I would go with the ProLine body they have for it.
  • ProLine Prism/Wedge tires (for carpet track and my basement track)
  • JConcepts ellipse / Stock BK Bar (for outside backyard and hardpack dirt/clay tracks)
  • Cheapo amazon surpass hobbies (king val) 35A/2435 6100kv ESC/Motor Combo (I love it! Super fast and ESC has lots of tune-able settings)
  • Savox SH-0255MG Servo (I think I am right)
  • RadioLink RX/TX
  • Urgenex 1100 2s 35C batteries with Deans plug (20 bucks for a pair of 2 on amazon, super great batteries for the price! Stays balanced and fairly low IRs)

Build Thread: https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/losi-mini-b-club-racer-build.138622/
Mini Basement track thread: https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/davids-basement-mini-track-private-just-for-show.140252/
Old carpet track thread: https://www.rctalk.com/forum/thread...ne-racing-1-10-off-road-carpet-racing.137429/

As it sits now, broken. Gonna get it running soon for spring break.
Forgot to include this in the main list,
Upgrading to the Losi Aluminum Rear Pivot as that is the part I broke, but it was the stock plastic one. View attachment 183989View attachment 183988

Also forgot that I use a chassis protector. From Losi. Used it as I did race on carpet and wanted to protect it and the car. But even tho you aren't racing, great if you like the look of it, and so you dont scrap up the chassis. I also use velcro on the side rails to hold the body on.
These cars are very popular of the ball cup popping issue. Had that earlier when I started racing. But later on, I drove more carefully and rarely do I have a ball cup snap off on me.
I am still running the stock dogbone axles which like to flyout when the ball cup snaps off the ball stud. Spray painted mine orange so I could see them on the black/grey carpet track. They also like to bend. Planning on upgrading to the TLR Tuned CVAs or the MIP CVDs for it once I do get back to using this car more again.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much, this is perfect. I'm going to go through it.

By the way how much was your friend charging for track time?
 
Minishaman said:
Thank you so much, this is perfect. I'm going to go through it.

By the way how much was your friend charging for track time?
Click to expand...
Well, since I basically went every week, and I'm younger, he downed the price 5 bucks for me. So anytime I went for practice for a day, 10 bucks (was $15) And anytime for racing, 20 bucks (originally $25) But it also depends on how many classes I ran. Most of the time I ran both 4wd Bug and Mini B so it was like 30 bucks. ($10 for extra class) But the thing was that he didn't made it (He was open for 9 months) is that 1, he didn't enforce track / race fees every night and didn't have a proper paying system setup. Some people payed cash (like I did) and some people payed online. And also the main reason he had to close up was because of fire code / exits. As it was basically underground. Even though that he down the price for me, I sometimes still gave him in full just to help him out. As every club race night, its like only 5-15 people. At my other local track which is more time drive, and more popular, its more 25 to 40 racers a night.
 
I've been thinking of getting one. The first thing i would do is get rid of that ESC/receiver combo and put in my own.
 
Hello everyone, I have a spare GooRc 4000kv motor ESC combo, I was looking at getting the Mini-B just not sure if this motor will work in this and not overheat....do you think the Mini-B is a good car just to goof off on pavement, maybe some gravel?
 
HunterRc said:
Hello everyone, I have a spare GooRc 4000kv motor ESC combo, I was looking at getting the Mini-B just not sure if this motor will work in this and not overheat....do you think the Mini-B is a good car just to goof off on pavement, maybe some gravel?
Click to expand...
Welcome in!

What is the size of the motor and the motor shaft? Pics or a link could help. Just making sure that it could fit in the Mini B with no issues.
The motor shaft would have to be 2mm diameter to fit the stock pinion, and has to be 2430 or 2435 can size to fit.

It also depends what esc you are using it with. Anything in the 30 to 35A range would work.

4000kv will work, and heat will stay very low. But the car would also be slow (assuming if you're running stock 2s lipo) Most people run 6000kv+ to get the speed and punch. But if your running 3s, it would most likely would outway using a higher kv motor. But most electronics for these are 2s only.

My YT Channel to check out my videos
 
Its just a normal size 380/390 size...I'm not familiar with the diffrent numbers Ex 2430...I'm pretty sure its the 2mm shaft. Do you think it will stay cool on 3s? as for the amprage on the ESC I'll have to look in a little bit...now I'm questiong myself if the motors 4000kv or higher lol I'll get back soon with the numbers. I'm looking at the roller version I'm just trying to figure out where I could stick the ESC an reciver
 
luke66 said:
4500KV is a little high IMO. But it's a smaller car...
Click to expand...
David said people run 6000kv on 2s so i think 4500kv will be alright on 3s...My uncle actually ran this same motor and Esc on a Teton with aluminum, Hubs all around and A arms so I think it will be ok on the MIni b it can't be too much of a weight difference.
 

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