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MTX-3 Questions

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Radio, Servos, battery, and a starter box, is all that is needed after you get the kit for around 550.00.

Servos, 150.00-200.00 starter box 60.00-90.00, battery, 25.00.

800.00-900.00 would just about do it without including a failsafe or a body.
 
Our opinions are (correct me if I am wrong here Ed) thatthe LD3 is a good car. We wanted a great car, so we looked around, asked around and did some research. One of the best kits is the Mugen, also the Serpent, or a NTC3. The LD3 was not even on our radar if that helps at all. You might get a beeter idewa from an actual LD3 owner, but I have heard that the handling of the LD3 wasn't what one had hoped it to be. Take it as a grain of salt. I am VERY new to compitition touring cars and I do not know too much at this point. Hopefully after a season of racing the MTX-3 I will have some better knowledge. All I know about this hobby is if I spend a little more up front on the kit, I spend less later trying to fix it's problems and buying "hop-ups". The only touring car I have owned was a RTR RS4 3 I hopped up and it was at best ok imo.
 
More pics.

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Originally posted by FastEddy
Radio, Servos, battery, and a starter box, is all that is needed after you get the kit for around 550.00.

Servos, 150.00-200.00 starter box 60.00-90.00, battery, 25.00.

800.00-900.00 would just about do it without including a failsafe or a body.

If u are going to really get into racing. You'll also need a set-up board, extra tires at different shores, & of course a body w/paint.

Fasteddy- Car looks good so far. Isn't she beautiful!! Wajt til u start running her. :radio:
 
Eddy - two tips.

1. file down the bottom rear portion of the suppurt bar that goes over the top of the rear belt. this item sometimes rubs on the belt, causing premature wear.

2. use CA around the outside of the carbon fibre top plate and teh shock towers to prevent the lamenant from peeling during collisions.



btw - kick ass car, bro!
 
NA,
Thanks for the tips. The CF I knew about but forgot. The guide is great to know about.

I'm using a Sony 717.
The reason they look good isn't the camera, its the lighting.

Go to Home Depot and purchase 3-4 compact florescent bulbs. They need to be 5000k- 6500k in temperature. This will simulate outside lighting. They are also AWESOME lighting for your shop space. Real comfortable on your eyes.
 
man, you know if I decide not to get the yokomo drift cars, I think i'll probably get an mtx-3 :)

you're starting to make me really want one..BAD

does the mtx-3 come with front and rear gear differentials?
 
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What battery pack is to be used in this beast.
The photos show a AA 3+2. The battery holder that comes with it only holds 2 in width. inverting the battery so there are 3 on top seems as if it may not fit. (I only Eyeballed it.) It also seems as if it would raise the CG.

Help!
 
Originally posted by kwong2001
That's an MT12 correct? What's it rated at?

Cubic Capacity: 2.1cc
Power: 1.15 HP
RPM: 36,500
Stroke: 14.00
Bore: 13.80
Weight: 215 grams
Shaft Diameter: 11mm (SG)


Fasteddy: Look at www.nitrohouse.com they have the battery pack for the MTX-3 for like $34.99
 
Tires, glow plugs, belts, screw & allen drivers, shocks, and extra screws and nuts. Mostly a bit of everything.
 
I'm a bit confused on the directions for the engine clutch assembly.
Once everything is put together, it refers to measuring between two points. Are they trying to say leave .003 ~ .005 worth of play or gap using the spacers for adjustment on the end of the shaft?

Should I use any thread lock or an other method to tighten the 1st and 2nd speed gears together on the engine side?

This is my first attempt at working with a 2 speed and a centrex clutch I could use any advice available.
 
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