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MBX5 and a pullstart

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I think doing what corrado said would be fine. I mean, what would be the difference besides a gap inbetween the mounts?
 
Great I am going to have to get a local friend that is a machinist to fabricate one for me.... I hate that.
 
Anyone get a better mount? I tried calling Mugen and few hobby shops to ask and the LHS say to go to Mugen and of course mugen is an answering machine....
 
IMO no offense but a Mugen MBX-5 is meant for racing and we all know you dont race with pull start engines.

Its a high end car

I myself dont buy these .21+ engines with pullstart.

I've always stick with good quality .21 engines w/out pullstart.

Starter box is your friend.
 
Bouzouki said:
IMO no offense but a Mugen MBX-5 is meant for racing and we all know you dont race with pull start engines.

Its a high end car

I myself dont buy these .21+ engines with pullstart.

I've always stick with good quality .21 engines w/out pullstart.

Starter box is your friend.
thank for the same opinion I anticipated at the beginning...
 
there ya go, just glue it in with some JB weld. who needs mounts with that stuff, permantly bond the case to the chassis!
 
jon2 said:
Anyone get a better mount? I tried calling Mugen and few hobby shops to ask and the LHS say to go to Mugen and of course mugen is an answering machine....

Can you measure the distance between the engine mounting hole centres on your chassis (both along the chassis and across the chassis) and report back here?
 
niggle said:
Can you measure the distance between the engine mounting hole centres on your chassis (both along the chassis and across the chassis) and report back here?

35mm in length.
 
I just talked to Mugen today and they said there were no such mounts. Great. I am now going to have to sell the NEW OS RG 21 and maybe the Picco omega 21 P/S. Looking to get a P5 or a Vspec 21... So anyone interested PM me now prior to me posting them on the forum....
 
why not cut the mounts like i suggested? i see no reason why it wouldnt work, and i dont see it compromising strength.
 
Heck, a tap and die set would be cheap enough. Why not just tap a new set of mounting holes on the GS mounts?
 
Well the mounting screws would get cut. I may try it. But I am also looking for a P5, Vspec 21 or an RB s72.
 
Candyman said:
Heck, a tap and die set would be cheap enough. Why not just tap a new set of mounting holes on the GS mounts?
Not long enough or I would have. I am waiting on a quote to get longer ones made by a friend.
 
You're right. My bad. I just went back and looked at the pic and saw that it's not possible. Just ignore me.
 
Candyman said:
You're right. My bad. I just went back and looked at the pic and saw that it's not possible. Just ignore me.
It was good idea...heck I looked to do that. The OS 21 RG is going up for sale for sure and I will just keep the Picco Omega for the Sut I am getting.

That sucks...
 
Ok I was looking on EBaya and noticed the Mugen MBX4...DOes anyone know the measurements on those engine mounts.... I just want to run the X5 for now till I get the RB or OS or P5. Please post the measurements of the MOUNTING holes to the chassis. the MBX5 ones are 35mm. Let me know


Thanks

Jon
 
I fitted a wasp.26 on my Kyosho K3 with shimming up the engine so the pullstart clears the chassis and ground 2 mm from the inner back edge for the wide pullstart backplate.From what I can see in your pictures the chassis mounting holes are inline with the engine mounting holes on the engine mounting blocks, can't do anything here. Looks like you're going to have to run a starter box. The Kyosho engine mount blocks have the 2 set of holes offset. If you try to run different mounts it'll through off your engine position.
 
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