Losi LST 2 help please

[Chamaraw]

Thanks all . I got the truck running now. Infact i cannot stop it from the start.So engine starts up with really high rev and lots of smoke coming out and idle seems to be so high. I am trying to adjust it from trimming it from the transmitter. Any pointers are welcome. I am a newbie here. So is the rev's normally high until the engine gets hot? but it should not run around without throttle right?

 

[Certified Mike]

When you have the servo or linkage disconnected from the carb, can the carb close more? In other words, is your servo holding the carb open at all? There should NOT be a high idle until it warms up or anything like that. The way that this type of clutch work is simple, if the rpms are high, the clutch engages and you get forward motion. There is no separate linkage that lets the clutch out (the way a standard shift car or most motorcycles work).

 

[Chamaraw]

Yes it closes slightly. I have corrected it now.It was good after that. However I wanted to tune the engine properly so i put the factory setting on all needles. However now it starts up then stalls after i remove glow plug starter. did i blew up the glow starter? Why i wanted to do this was it almost like engine gets cut off ( i think it gets flooded after like 30 seconds) so whatever i do to start it up afterwards it doesn't start up.

 

[Certified Mike]

The factory settings are usually set rich. There is no set rule that if you put the needles to 'x, y and z' settings your engine will now run correctly. The ambient temperature and conditions will effect the setting almost daily. I adjust my carb during my runs to account for this daily.
The factory settings are just a baseline for you to work from. I would start leaning it out and I'll bet you get straightened out.

I post these links all the time for people. Please really spend the time to learn the info in them and use the tuning tips and flow charts. I'll bet that you will be running much better if you try it!

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-rc-beginners-guide.68224/

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/

Spend some real time with these as it's all info you should KNOW as a nitro operator. Let us know how things are going after you do this.

Also, this link has info about what is going on inside your engine based on what your glowplug looks like.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/glow-plugs-dos-donts-tech-and-tips.113922/#post-1111694

Your igniter is ok if you are sucessfully starting your engine with it. Just make sure the batteries are fresh (or FULLY charged) before you go to follow the info I have linked above.

 

[olds97_lss]

I find that humidity plays a large part on running nitro engines. If it's both hot (85F+) and humid, they can be temperamental at best. Usually though, when it's just hot out, they do fine, just a little warm. Humidity seems to annoy them. Considering their size, tolerances and RPM's (5,000-35,000), adding a bit of water to the air makes sense that it would mess them up.

Just read what you can and make small adjustments. When you get stuck and it's fighting you, walk away for a bit. If you can't get it to run right, reset the needles to factory and start from there. It's very easy to lose track of where you are after you've been fiddling with the screws for an hour.

 

[Certified Mike]

Adjusting the needle in set numbers helps me keep it straight. Like always turn 1/8 turns adjust first, then to 1/16's (as close as you can keep it) or whatever you feel comfortable with but if you can remember you turned it clockwise 1/8th turn, you can remember to turn it back if you're not happy with the results. That might help so you don't have to return back to factory so much.

 

[Chamaraw]

Hello, sorry for the long delay to reply back. The car runs fine now , couple of issue i am seeing.

1. The car is really hard to get started , takes forever and i am just about to give up and it starts. (I used new fuel, glow starter(full charged), glow plug(new) , and properly prime before start.
2. I noticed a small leak in the fuel tank not sure this is link to not starting properly.
3. The car stopped halfway, before it goes through the full fuel tank and it cannot be started afterwards(over heat?)

If i want to swap this out to a good engine what do you recommend? I am a bit tired of this starting process, wonder a rebuild of the engine would help. But i would need lots of advice to do that. Thanks in advance.

 

[cbaker65]

Hello, sorry for the long delay to reply back. The car runs fine now , couple of issue i am seeing.

1. The car is really hard to get started , takes forever and i am just about to give up and it starts. (I used new fuel, glow starter(full charged), glow plug(new) , and properly prime before start.
2. I noticed a small leak in the fuel tank not sure this is link to not starting properly.
3. The car stopped halfway, before it goes through the full fuel tank and it cannot be started afterwards(over heat?)

If i want to swap this out to a good engine what do you recommend? I am a bit tired of this starting process, wonder a rebuild of the engine would help. But i would need lots of advice to do that. Thanks in advance.

If the engine is hard to pull over ,then its probably a fairly new engine an still needs to be broke in!

If so ,I can give you tips on how to start it quickly!..

 

[Chamaraw]

No engine is really easy to turn and its a LRP z.28 Spec3. I brought it second hand so i do not know how far it has been used. I guess a lot. I just need some guidance on what to do. i already have a another spare fuel tank that i am going to replace

 

[NinoS]

No engine is really easy to turn and its a LRP z.28 Spec3. I brought it second hand so i do not know how far it has been used. I guess a lot. I just need some guidance on what to do. i already have a another spare fuel tank that i am going to replace

If the engine dies once it's warm and then is impossible to restart until it's cooled down, the way i understand it the sleeve is worn and it would need to be pinched or resleeved - but i'm no veteran, i'm just going through similar things with a couple used engines. Both have inexpensive brand new replacements on the way so I can go through the entire break-in process myself and know exactly how a new, proper running engine should act. That will help when trying to deal with these used buggers!

 

[Shadyways916]

I've got an extra everything if you have a hard time finding parts

 

[Certified Mike]

The leak in the tank, or anywhere in your fuel system will cause the issues you've described. Nitro uses a pressurized fuel system. Its not high pressure BUT what is there is very important for the engine to run properly! Whatever is leaking, fix or replace for sure! After the leak, check for any blockages in the system and retest for any difference in results. Post what you've found and we'll see what else we can help with.