Legend RC Class ... school me

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Now I’m home and I put the car on the scale. That’s the first picture. After adjusting the spring tention and spacing of the rods that are the upper V connectors for the suspension I was able to shift the weight bias from right to left.
This should make a huge difference.

This is the race day settings .
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This is with the weight shifted to the left and suspension travel pretty neutral.
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This is with the suspension pushed to the limit .
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These changes made the car run like it’s on rails. Absolutely flying and glued to the track.
 
So I made a shocking discovery. When I switched from a five to six cell battery pack I had to move a chassis brace because the stock brace location was in the way of the battery. I hold the battery with zip ties but need to add Velcro because the battery shifted forward a significant amount . And I have no idea when that happen. So all my tuning is suspect . From the looks of things it’s between 51-54 % rear bias and with it shifting around I have to start over. Not from scratch, but just to see how the weight shift affects traction. And I also noticed that when you get hit really hard you need to recheck the tweek. It definitely shifted the weight bias back to the right after a hard hit.
 
This is top secret stuff so don’t tell anyone.
I made some shim wedges to put under the king pin bolts. This will add or remove 1/2 a degree of camber.
The shims are just washers I glued to a piece of wood then filed down so one side is super thin.

I hope to test it soon. The stock set up is not adjustable but has 1.5 degrees of positive camber now with my shims I have 2 deg on the right and 1 deg on the left. Let’s see how that feels going in an oval.

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So I was at a local RC shop today and they have an indoor track which REALLY peaked my interest. I was talking to the guy working there and he told me they run races in the fall and winter. I asked a few questions about the different cars/classes they run and he said the Traxxas Slash with an Outlaw body was popular, so of course I'm looking now for one of those, BUT he mentioned that The most popular class was the Legend class where it is supposedly the least expensive and most "equal" racing class out there. So, what would you recommend to look for in a Legend Class car? They had kits there at $130 but I wonder what would REALLY be the total investment as they come with no controller or electronics? I see prices of electronics and it seems they are priced all over the place. Has anyone here run the Legend Class before? Was it as fun as he made it out to be? :)
I never had a legend but I built a BRP MINI legend back in the early 90's. It was a stock car body. I forget what scale but it was about the size of a 1/25th model.
Loved it. Same exact chassis style but smaller.
Thing was fast for the size.
 
Might want to discuss the tire wear costs of Legends to Slash at your club... I raced Legends for a brief time at the local parking lot club (HobbyTownUSA) in my area and the foam tires would chunk up and need to be replaced every 3-4 race days. A set of Slash tires would last 6+ months of racing making Slash less expensive to maintain in the long run. Don't get me wrong, I'm not a Traxxas fanboi by any means, but on asphalt I can confirm that Slash is cheaper than Legends over the long haul. Maybe carpet will be less wear on the foams???
The stock set up is not adjustable but has 1.5 degrees of positive camber now with my shims I have 2 deg on the right and 1 deg on the left.

View attachment 157189

what you have pictured shows negative camber, I don't know of any setup that uses positive camber, I'm guessing it was a typo?

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On carpet the foams last a very long time. Now that I do not hit the wall so often and I got the protection rings on the right side the rims are lasting longer.
On my off road buggies the carpet tears up rubber tires. But foam last longer.
 
Might want to discuss the tire wear costs of Legends to Slash at your club... I raced Legends for a brief time at the local parking lot club (HobbyTownUSA) in my area and the foam tires would chunk up and need to be replaced every 3-4 race days. A set of Slash tires would last 6+ months of racing making Slash less expensive to maintain in the long run. Don't get me wrong, I'm not a Traxxas fanboi by any means, but on asphalt I can confirm that Slash is cheaper than Legends over the long haul. Maybe carpet will be less wear on the foams???
You haven't seen Iowa Crawler's other threads showing his tires after a race. They look like he was driving over lava rocks 🤣
 
Finally got to the track this afternoon. I had to use my 5 cell pack because my 6cell pack vented. Before the main event on Sunday. But the car is super planted . I was turning consistent laps below 4.5 seconds and 4.0 was the fastest. With the 6 c battery it’s a lot faster but I have to wait till the Sunday race to test it again. I was full throttle laps but it’s quicker to blip the throttle on turn entry so it bites and does not go wide.
 
Put a new body on my legend. This is the 37 ford coupe. It’s painted with spastic dark metallic orange backed with black. Hood and running boards are black on the outside. Window trim is chrome pen and black sharpie . Grill is chrome pen. I need to redo that.

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Put a new body on my legend. This is the 37 ford coupe. It’s painted with spastic dark metallic orange backed with black. Hood and running boards are black on the outside. Window trim is chrome pen and black sharpie . Grill is chrome pen. I need to redo that.

View attachment 163333
Looks awesome! To do that grille, I'd chrome that whole area, then just come back between the grille bars with a black sharpie or paint pen. It's easier than trying to keep a pen riding on top of the grille bars. Would have been easier to chrome from the inside and back with black 😉
 
I have been thinking about that because it’s orange between the grill lines. I might tape it off spray black them do the chrome . I can hold the pen still if I try . Let’s see how it goes.
 
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