Kraton 6s differential compatability

[dshaf]

Purchased a used kraton 6s last summer. Have been upgrading drivetrain parts here and there from jennys rc. Just replaced axles bc fronts weren't bent pretty good, and noticed diff drive cups that hold axle are notched/ worn pretty badly. Figured while I have it apart, I'll just replace entire diff. Is there anyway to tell what version kraton i have? Believe it's exb version, as the red center brace has exb on it. Just want to make sure I purchase the right diff before I tear it all down to realize I bought the wrong part

 

[332_RC]

Does it have aluminum bulkheads / gearboxes or composite? The diff outdrive cups are different for each. Any pics?

 

[dshaf]

I'll post pics later today. The diff/ gear box housings are composite/ plastic. I believe mine may be a v5. The axles i just received through jennys were correct length, but the drive shaft portion that goes through axle carrier to wheel were wrong size and a bit longer than stock.

 

[332_RC]

Does the bottom of the chassis have two ribs at the rear & plain black or is it flat & have EXB on it?

 

[dshaf]

Will check for ribs bottom of chassis, entire underside of aluminum chassis is plain black

 

[332_RC]

Will check for ribs bottom of chassis, entire underside of aluminum chassis is plain black

Then it's a V5 most likely. EXB chassis braces have been installed. If its got ribs & plain black, it's a V5. You'll need the regular diff.

 

[dshaf]

Bottom chassis does indeed have 2 ribs towards rear, so looks like it's a v5?

 

[332_RC]

Yes- That is a V5. The two ribs & black shock towers. The EXB chassis braces have been added.

 

[dshaf]

Thank you. So would front/ rear exb diffs not match up to my v5?

 

[dshaf]

Only one jennys rc has in stock for v6 kraton, assuming this one will work. Just looking to replace the rear for now

 

[332_RC]

If you get that above, it's all good. Complete unit. The new V6 has a new bulkhead & it's thicker on the tabs & input. The EXB diffs, which is what a V6 has, is a smaller 29mm diff & GP4 gears. Both V5 & V6 are 43/10 gears but not cross compatible. The V5 diffs are 31mm plain cut gears, bigger dia gear & not the GP4 tooth type.

 

[dshaf]

Thanks for all the help. So the diff posted from jennys will bolt up just fine on my v5 kraton? If so, I'll order one this weekend

 

[332_RC]

Thanks for all the help. So the diff posted from jennys will bolt up just fine on my v5 kraton? If so, I'll order one this weekend

Yes sir. Bolt right up. You're welcome. Just get the rubber inserts out of the diff cups in the rear one you have & put them in the new one, if they aren't in there. Front doesn't use the rubber inserts, rear do. It's a luck of the draw what you get, a front or rear, unless you specifically ask for a rear. Ted at Jennys is great, & probably would do that. Put it in the checkout notes & send an email you prefer a rear with the rubber inserts. They keep the dogbones from bottoming out to far inside the cups, snapping them. Later on, you can get another unit to match the diff fluid, 80k comes in those. Stock V5 is 10k.

 

[332_RC]

It would be a beast with 80k front & rear with 500k center!

 

[dshaf]

Yes sir. Bolt right up. You're welcome. Just get the rubber inserts out of the diff cups in the rear one you have & put them in the new one, if they aren't in there. Front doesn't use the rubber inserts, rear do. It's a luck of the draw what you get, a front or rear, unless you specifically ask for a rear. Ted at Jennys is great, & probably would do that. Put it in the checkout notes & send an email you prefer a rear with the rubber inserts. They keep the dogbones from bottoming out to far inside the cups, snapping them. Later on, you can get another unit to match the diff fluid, 80k comes in those. Stock V5 is 10k.

Will do. That's my current plan, just replace the rear and front later. Rear diff cups are ate up pretty good. Bought truck used and no clue how much abuse it's seen before me, so been replacing critical components so I know it's good to go. Already upgraded motor and esc/front diff/axles/hubs and bearings all through jennys.

 

[dshaf]

It would be a beast with 80k front & rear with 500k center!

Could u please explain why 80/500k fluid would make such a difference? Honestly, I have never messed with fluid in diffs on any rc trucks. If it will make a noticeable difference now would be the time to change diff fluid while it's all torn apart. Assuming it's relatively easy/ cheap to do so?

 

[332_RC]

Well, most all RCs, off or on road, racers or bashers, run thicker in front than the rear. Not a rule, just a basic tech thing. The 'go to' for a big basher is 60/500/30 , F/C/R. My Notorious I run 60/375/40. My Kraton 60/500/30. My Talion 75/500/40. My Infraction 50/200/20. My Limitless 100/spool/80. It's not hard to pull the diff, drain it, & refill w/ whatever viscosity you want. Especially the center diff. It gets hot. If you get the new V6 80k & install it in the rear, I would consider putting 60 in the front or just run it till you get the front to match before you dive buying fluids. I'd at least do the center. Some folks are loving the 80k F&R in the new V6, some are changing it. Depends on the owner & their style. I have found 30k is too thin in the rear of these 6s bashers. You don't want the F&R too far out of balance but running it that way won't hurt it, just change its characteristics. If it were me, I'd do the rear swap out, redo the center 500k, run it some, get the front to match. Run it some more. Then decide what & if to do. 80k F&R will make it snappy.

 

[332_RC]

The diff fluid bottles are like $12-$15 each. 60, 30, 200, 500 is readily available. Also many others ie; 20, 40, 80, 100 & 1mil. etc Team Associated & Racers Edge, Hudy, Core/Schumacher are what I have on hand.