Is it the glow plug?

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My RC will run well for a few minutes and then slow down, then stall. I am very careful with tuning the engine. When it does work, it is max performance and well tuned. The engine idles fine. The glow plug is the original one. I have had previous RCs do this and replacing the glow plug fixed it.
 
Id switch the plug along with all the fuel lines and if you have a filter check that .
 
Id switch the plug along with all the fuel lines and if you have a filter check that .
The fuel lines are fine. Are you talking about fuel filters, because I don't have one.
 
The fuel lines are fine. Are you talking about fuel filters, because I don't have one.
when it starts getting warmed up, is it hard to start? or does it start right up after it stalls and dies? its never a bad thing to have a few spare glow plugs, I've slowly built up about 6 spares, try to grab one every time i go to the LHS lol, just so you can rule that out immediately if it comes to question.
 
when it starts getting warmed up, is it hard to start? or does it start right up after it stalls and dies? its never a bad thing to have a few spare glow plugs, I've slowly built up about 6 spares, try to grab one every time i go to the LHS lol, just so you can rule that out immediately if it comes to question.
It does not start right up after it stalls. It is hard to start from the begining. I have it on the same settings and the trmperature outside is the same as when I got full tanks of speed. It used to start right up with 1 pull.
 
It does not start right up after it stalls. It is hard to start from the begining. I have it on the same settings and the trmperature outside is the same as when I got full tanks of speed. It used to start right up with 1 pull.

Check an make sure that the cylinder head screws are tight an that they didn't vibrate loose!

That is an indication of lost compression as the engine heats up ,the compression will drop until
the engine cools off enough to restart!
It is best to run the piston down out of the top end after your runs!
 
T
Check an make sure that the cylinder head screws are tight an that they didn't vibrate loose!

That is an indication of lost compression as the engine heats up ,the compression will drop until
the engine cools off enough to restart!
It is best to run the piston down out of the top end after your runs!

My exaust manifold screws were loose.
 
A leaky exhaust would cause the engine to lose some pressure in the tank causing a lean bog ,an also
may cause the engine to die at full WOT!
MY other screws re tight. I did tightnen the exahust right before my best run. It did keep running lean, even when really rich. I think that is the problem. I don't think they were ever really tight to begin with, but just got looser. I did crank down and tighten them. I will get a plug for it today. Probably 2.
 
MY other screws re tight. I did tightnen the exahust right before my best run. It did keep running lean, even when really rich. I think that is the problem. I don't think they were ever really tight to begin with, but just got looser. I did crank down and tighten them. I will get a plug for it today. Probably 2.

Also ,what about the couplers ,make sure that any header pipe seals or couplers seal ,an what kind of
muffler is it? ,does it have the nipple on it that the fuel line hooks to ,or is it just a hole in the muffler that the
fuel line slides into?
 
Also ,what about the couplers ,make sure that any header pipe seals or couplers seal ,an what kind of
muffler is it? ,does it have the nipple on it that the fuel line hooks to ,or is it just a hole in the muffler that the
fuel line slides into?
It has a nipple that the fuel line hooks on to. The first thing I checked was the fuel line. It is fine.
 
It has a nipple that the fuel line hooks on to. The first thing I checked was the fuel line. It is fine.

I was not talking about how good or bad the fuel line was!

I am talking about how it is hooked up to the muffler ,it can not be restricted ,or plugged up as that is what
pressurizes the fuel tank so that you have constant fuel flow to the carb.!
 
I was not talking about how good or bad the fuel line was!

I am talking about how it is hooked up to the muffler ,it can not be restricted ,or plugged up as that is what
pressurizes the fuel tank so that you have constant fuel flow to the carb.!
It is good, but I will check again.
 
If it dies after it gets warm and the is hard or impossible to restart it sounds like it has lost it’s pinch resulting in lost compression. Have you ran several gallons through it?
 
My exaust manifold screws were loose.
Most of the members, including me, have a screw loose.
Lots of things to consider with your issue, including the outside temp. Re-tuning is required for changes in humidity and temperature.
 
I have tightened the exhaust and installed a new glow plug. I think it is the screws that hold the plate that holds the crankshaft. The one under the pull start. It still died out even after the exhaust and the glow plug. No fuel lines are blocked. Since this Rc has had issues from the factory, I can assume it is that plate being loose.
 
I have tightened the exhaust and installed a new glow plug. I think it is the screws that hold the plate that holds the crankshaft. The one under the pull start. It still died out even after the exhaust and the glow plug. No fuel lines are blocked. Since this Rc has had issues from the factory, I can assume it is that plate being loose.

Air leaks can cause poor performance in the engines tune ,some people like to seal the engines backplate &
carb. throat!

 
I tightened the backplate. The flywheel was more difficult to turn afterwards. I will check the carb tomorrow.
 
I tightened the backplate. The flywheel was more difficult to turn afterwards. I will check the carb tomorrow.

If your engine feels a little tighter ,then it maybe holding more pressure as you turn the flywheel ,that maybe
where your air leak was!....:cool:
 
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