Is Consistency a reality w/ nitro RC ?

[SkyMaxx]

I think most of the long winded answers have hit on the real reason for reliable running. It is a two fold answer. The first part is knowledge and this site is a great place to gain that. Once you know how to tune, retune, and set up your RC the rest is fairly routine. The second part is preparation and maintenance. You need to make certain your RC is prepped for the day of running, and then take care of it after a hard day of running.

If you can nail those down, then you will find that your RC is more able to start right up and run for as long as you desire, whenever you desire.

 

[untchbl]

did you just call me long winded? lol

And to summerize, if I can do it succesfully in my little amount of expirence and knowledge, then anyone should be able to within reason

 

[SkyMaxx]

Me? Never...that would be the pot calling the kettle, black.

 

[spyhunter48]

i had a little problem this year but i am new to nitro but sence then i got a diff truck and had no problem and my friends around me had never had any problems with thres and they never but after run oil in it or clean there truck explane that i know i can't lol curtis

 

[Plaidfish]

yeah curtis I have a friend w/ an RS4 road car and he beats on it like its a ShIIITe box too I've seen him pour fuel down the carb to start it & run it w/ no filter and it still runs (not like it should but good enough to play around for a couple of hours). he's had that hting for over a year and maybe run 4 gallons through it....he also pours the fuel from the gallon container all over his car when he's fueling it and NEVER cleans it..It has dirt buildup from over a year ago on it....some people just get lucky, then there is me who cleans his RCs every time I use them ( I mean almost a full tear down at least every other day of running )...and I get a 50/50 run chance.....I think I'll get a 1/10th scale Stadium truck so I'll have a very reliable RC when I go play...they seem to have the least problems....like a hyundai runs like crap but it will run like crap forever...

 

[olds97_lss]

Hey!!! Hyundai's don't run like crap!

I've had two and if it wasn't for 40-60mph collisions into inanamite objects, they would probably still be running. The first one hit the ditch at 140K, the second hit the k-rail at 160K. Good little cars... although, the 5 speed got way worse milage than the 3 speed automatic. (27mpg vs 38mpg) And it was way slower.

 

[Plaidfish]

I guess "run like crap" was the wrong way to put it...
they run like a squirrel cage powered vehicle
But they'll run like that forever....
I've always been a proponent of having HP under the hood...
I dropped a 5.0 in my 99 ranger
I call it the mongoose cause it eats Cobras!!!!!
well not quite but it's close
I eat stock GTs all day long....
had to lower the truck 3" and put a 8.5" rear with traction bars to get it to hook up though.
AND I've driven that for almost 2 years w/ no issues!!!!

BUt yes the Hyundai is a good car
my friend still drives his 80's hatchback excel
it's got over 200k on it too
and he wil cry when it's gone i'm sure

 

[bigfreak]

How many people here can HONESTLY say say can pick up their nitro RC and run it more than 75% of the time w/ NO F*#K ups? I mean like stupid tuning issues not damage from crashes...

Well for tuning issues, yeah I can run all day. My Novarossi runs like a raped ape and holds a tune beatifully.

As for damage... well, that's another story. My driving skillz leave much to be desired. I'm sure eventally I'll be able to race a few meets without breaking.

I know what you mean though. Even the most skilled of hobbist will tell you that "if it's not one thing, it's another". It's not always damage from a crash, but something that went unnoticed. Like a clutch giving out on your in the A Main. The best thing for that is to do like FastEddy and spend hours going through your ride before you take it out. I can't honestly say I do that every time, but I try to make time for it.

 

[ToRqUe]

I barely have time 2 run my car period.

 

[FastEddy]

These little toys : have a lot of moving parts that can brake or need constant adjustments. Tuning is a big issue when it comes to being reliable. A trained ear will tell you everything you need to know and experience will tell you what to do to fix it. The longer your in this hobby and the more you run, the more consistent you should get. There will always be something to work on, clean, adjust, replace, or even just study.

 

[Plaidfish]

I barely have time 2 run my car period.

Wait till you get in the world of having a job...you'll pray for the days of freedom and school

Do you ever go to Mills Pond? or Yamato Road?

 

[kwong2001]

I used to have problems with parts breaking due to bad installation. But for the past year, i've figured out all the proper ways to setup the car, so usually when thing's break, it's because of my bad driving.

I also found that I had to re-learn how to tune an engine after getting my novarossi ns12s3. The signs it gave for rich or lean were different then a sport engine.

 

[parris001]

I can honestly say I run about 95% of the time and tweak about 5% of the time. My favorite toy at this moment is an RS4 RTR that I bought back in 2000. I've made upgrades over time but it's not because the car was lacking but just because I saw cool stuff I wanted. It's almost a Racer 2 now just because I like carbon fiber and graphite. It had the .15 FE when I got it but now has a .15 SS. The old engine was still good but I got a good deal on the SS so I upgraded. I've had a list of failures on parts that I could just about list on one hand, and I bash a lot in parking lots. Two rear belts, I'm just about to replace the original front belt, one rear dogbone (the new SS power snapped the original), lower rear A arms, and one worn out front belt tensioner. I've replaced other parts along the way, mind you, but they were upgrades. I've only worn out or torn up the parts listed. (I also had to recently replace both lower front graphite lower control arms due to a crash with a 1/8 HB buggy, but we won't talk about that). I did just have to retune my engine for the colder weather, and oddly enough I had to lean it out. Explain that one to me?

But yes, I can say that I'm consistant. I run way more than I tune or tweak. And I run hard and often.

 

[Plaidfish]

I did just have to retune my engine for the colder weather, and oddly enough I had to lean it out. Explain that one to me?

Cold air is more dense than warm air.

but it's not as high a content of O2

 

[olds97_lss]

I've always had to lean mine out when it's cold... I just ignored everyone saying "richen it up!".

When I richen mine up, it's so rich that it won't run and never gets close to running temps. Although, I did notice that the Omega on my savage is a PITA to keep warm compaired to when I ran it on my maxx. The only thing I can think of is that it's more open to get snow up on it when running than when it was on the maxx. Since the maxx runs a pan chassis, it blocks a lot of the crap coming off the tires. But when I took my savage out last, I couldn't keep the temps above 140, and that was with an aluminum sleeve covering the whole head.

I think I'm going to try and box the engine in somewhat with plastic on the tvp's so it isn't so apt to get snow/slush/water directly on th engine.

 

[Plaidfish]

HOT(engine)COLD(Snow)HOT(engine)COLD(Snow)HOT(engine)COLD(Snow)HOT(engine)COLD(Snow)HOT(engine)COLD(Snow)HOT(engine)COLD(Snow)HOT(engine)COLD(Snow)HOT(engine)COLD(Snow)HOT(engine)COLD(Snow)HOT(engine)COLD(Snow)=BOOM!!!!!!!
Definately not good...I'd try thermal wrap like you get for car headers and wrap the engine everywhere you can that way you can leave the screws easily accessible.....just a thought.....


anyone want a serpent 705????

trade or buy?

 

[untchbl]

These little toys : have a lot of moving parts that can brake or need constant adjustments. Tuning is a big issue when it comes to being reliable. A trained ear will tell you everything you need to know and experience will tell you what to do to fix it. The longer your in this hobby and the more you run, the more consistent you should get. There will always be something to work on, clean, adjust, replace, or even just study.

Why I'm in this hobby in a nutshell.

Brandon

 

[lykan]

My opinion, get a cheap engine and a rough runnning one for your first, something like and old mach .15 or a used TRX .15 pro

• Buy a ton of cheap glow plugs and crap fuel.
• Run it till you break the pullstart. Replace pull start
• run it till you Fugg up a one way, and clean it (the broken pull start should have told you it was rich)
• Run it till it dies , replace the piston and sleeve.
• Take it back apart and put the piston in the right way (duh)
• Play with it again until it dies. Ditch it.

Now you know

• what running with an air filter off for a second will do.
• what a huge difference an air leak, or a tiny hole in your pressure line will do.
• How long it really takes for a engine to get up to temp, and adjust to a needle turn.
• Two day old fuel in the tank really doesn't burn good
• What a tiny peice of dirt in the carb will do.

Go buy a nice brick glow starter battery. and a reliable engine XTM, HPI, O.S. etc.

Enjoy the rest of your nitro years with minimal tunning issues, little to no overheating, and more drive time. You will have a respect for a good tune. The frusterating problems that made you want to trash your r/c will be gone.

 

[Plaidfish]

I'm Lykan your style......
even after doing that same process I still find that tuning does not end w/ the Engine though....Once you get good at the engine tuning then you get to chassis tuning which is way more intricate and since there are more chassis designs than engine designs.....well you can see where this is going huh? I havn't had coffee yet so I can't rant like I normally do.....See me in about an hour.

 

[olds97_lss]

That's why I like MT's and bashing. Not a whole lot to change on the chassis. Just make it stronger and have a greater ability to resist impacts.

I don't think I could stand dealing with the tedious nature of on road or 1/8 buggy racing. Just to much crap to pay attention to.

For me, about the only think I mess around with on the savage is shock oil weight, shock springs and diff oil. Not a whole lot of adjustments available.