How many people here can HONESTLY say say can pick up their nitro RC and run it more than 75% of the time w/ NO F*#K ups? I mean like stupid tuning issues not damage from crashes...
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Is Consistency a reality w/ nitro RC ?
- Thread starter Plaidfish
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wigsplittah
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that's 2-strokes for you in general. whenever I take my dirt bike (KX) out -- I usually have to re-jet and tune the carb to get it to run optimal.
vbgagnon
RCTalk VIP
I'd have to say that about 75% of this past season I had no problems. I would start early in the day, minor tuning and then go with it for the whole day. Constantly checking temps. If you have a descent engine, and a better than descent carb you shouldn't be f^ck|ng with it all the time.
It all about preparation and maintenance.
For every hour of runtime I spend 2-3 hours of tinker time.
Ask the people who run with me, Its rare that I brake down in a days play. Don't get me wrong, I suffer from broken parts just like everyone else but cutting a day short due to a poor running rig doesn't happen to often.
Others I have run with that share the same reliability are:
Humboldt Blazer,
Mcvickj
CandyMan
Robmob
Christian
DarthRacer
and more.
For every hour of runtime I spend 2-3 hours of tinker time.
Ask the people who run with me, Its rare that I brake down in a days play. Don't get me wrong, I suffer from broken parts just like everyone else but cutting a day short due to a poor running rig doesn't happen to often.
Others I have run with that share the same reliability are:
Humboldt Blazer,
Mcvickj
CandyMan
Robmob
Christian
DarthRacer
and more.
Last edited:
HumboldtBlazer
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It just depends on the vehicle. With my T-Maxx I would drive 25% and wrench 75%. With my Revo I drive 95% and wrench 5%. With my Mugen MBX 5 there was just pure runtime. The only settings I played with were for handling. With My GS Storm I was learning to fly and did about 60% 40% fix. I would say the variables are definteley drving experience, prep time, how well the vehicle is maintained and the vehicle type.
- Thread starter
- #7
I've had 3 T-maxxes, serpent 705, Mugen Super Athlete, my Newest creation of the Mutant Maxx and an OFNA 9.5 pro w/ all those C-n-C peices on it and I had the least problems w/ the T-maxxes (the one that everybody complains about), I havn't run the OFNA yet but it's like new...only 2 tanks on the buggy 0 on the new engine I got.....the serpent was a tuning nightmare and the mugen was too beat up when I got it to really be fair about it not running right all the time...but it seems like my mutant maxx is about 60 / 40 but when I have a problem with it it always seems to be a gremlin type situation.......I was wondering what the norm for these things was . thanks for the answers guys
AC48
Hardcore RCTalk User
Well, i just spen the last 2 hours changing parts and putting my Wasp .28 on my Savage. I just started it up, and it stalled, so I went to start again and nothing. I can't even remember what I said but it went something like "Mother F***ing One Way!!!! Son of a Bitch!!!!"
Just went on tower and ordered up a new one way. As you can see, consistancy has not been a remote part of this hobby for me.
Just went on tower and ordered up a new one way. As you can see, consistancy has not been a remote part of this hobby for me.
retarded pilot
Hardcore RCTalk User
ac48 said// I can't even remember what I said but it went something like "Mother F***ing One Way!!!! Son of a Bitch!!!!"
I've never had much of a problem swearing at my nitros for me its more of a loud grunt / growl ....EEERRRMRRAAHHH UUMMMH LOL
I've never had much of a problem swearing at my nitros for me its more of a loud grunt / growl ....EEERRRMRRAAHHH UUMMMH LOL
- Thread starter
- #10
LOL
I hear ya brothers.......
I hear ya brothers.......
With my NTC3 running the Novarossi NS12S3, I can honestly say that I had absolutely NO tuning issues when I an it at the track 90% of the time. I knew that car in and out and if there was any tuning to be done, it was only becuase I ran it close to home and where I race, it's 300+ feet above sea level. The same goes for my Schumacher Fusion (Pro21R Thundertiger) and Serpent 710 (Mugen X12).
They always started up and very rarely flamed out. I ran out of gas before flaming out. Crashes have kept me out because of broken parts, but for tuning ... it was a very rare occasion.
They always started up and very rarely flamed out. I ran out of gas before flaming out. Crashes have kept me out because of broken parts, but for tuning ... it was a very rare occasion.
With my maxx, I was angry most of the time. With my xxx-nt (with the os 15 cv-r) the only time it was down or a pain is when I broke something due to stupid driving.
The savage was kind of a headache at first, but it was mostly due to the engine and shocks. I replaced the shocks and dealt with the engine. After modifying an OS 21 RG carb to fit my Omega engine, I spend a lot more time forgetting why I used to have headaches.
Now with my recently aquired HPI Nitro RS4 MT, it's been kind of a headache since I got it a month ago. After doing some "Old's isms", it's a lot better, but I think the engine is about dead. Nothing a new OS 18 won't fix... now I just need to find $150!
The savage was kind of a headache at first, but it was mostly due to the engine and shocks. I replaced the shocks and dealt with the engine. After modifying an OS 21 RG carb to fit my Omega engine, I spend a lot more time forgetting why I used to have headaches.
Now with my recently aquired HPI Nitro RS4 MT, it's been kind of a headache since I got it a month ago. After doing some "Old's isms", it's a lot better, but I think the engine is about dead. Nothing a new OS 18 won't fix... now I just need to find $150!
AC48
Hardcore RCTalk User
LOL, I'm not really that pissed off, it just helps if I yell at my R/C, it helps me prevent from throwing themretarded pilot said:
I think when someone has reliablity problems when it comes to something starting and running engine wise, it's because they either don't know how to maintain it, what they have isn't of the best quality, or they have no idea on how to tune it.
Here's my foundation for this answer.
I havn't been doing this, but for maybe 6 months. And in that time, my only problem with something running was an older os cz-z, that had god knows how much fuel through it before I got it. I yanked it out and put in an OS TR. This was the first engien I've ever broken in myself, or ever tuned. To this day, I"ve put maybe 1.5 gallons through it in 7 minute heat races, practicing and 20 minute mains in my rc10gt, and it has never flamed out. It's never not started. And it's never gotten to hot. Same holds true for the mugen mt12 I bought to give the TR some rest. Same holds true for the RB Concepts S5 that is in my buggy.
All I do is perform routine maintenance. I'm very anal about clutch's and clutch bearings. I constantly check engines for air leaks and wear. Every day before I race I get to the track early as possible, to first tune my engine for that days conditions and practice. By the time the racing starts, I might make an adjustment by one hour, but that is it.
I think alot of people just start turning screws and not ever really let the engine adjust to their tuning. By the time the engine is cought up, it's so far out of tune, all hell breaks loose.
I'm by far not that versed at this yet. I'm also not the smartest when it comes to these little two strokes yet. But I have watched guys that have been at this alot longer then I break countless engines, just because they get impatient with the High Speed screw, and go to town.
how's that for a little food for thought.
Brandon
Here's my foundation for this answer.
I havn't been doing this, but for maybe 6 months. And in that time, my only problem with something running was an older os cz-z, that had god knows how much fuel through it before I got it. I yanked it out and put in an OS TR. This was the first engien I've ever broken in myself, or ever tuned. To this day, I"ve put maybe 1.5 gallons through it in 7 minute heat races, practicing and 20 minute mains in my rc10gt, and it has never flamed out. It's never not started. And it's never gotten to hot. Same holds true for the mugen mt12 I bought to give the TR some rest. Same holds true for the RB Concepts S5 that is in my buggy.
All I do is perform routine maintenance. I'm very anal about clutch's and clutch bearings. I constantly check engines for air leaks and wear. Every day before I race I get to the track early as possible, to first tune my engine for that days conditions and practice. By the time the racing starts, I might make an adjustment by one hour, but that is it.
I think alot of people just start turning screws and not ever really let the engine adjust to their tuning. By the time the engine is cought up, it's so far out of tune, all hell breaks loose.
I'm by far not that versed at this yet. I'm also not the smartest when it comes to these little two strokes yet. But I have watched guys that have been at this alot longer then I break countless engines, just because they get impatient with the High Speed screw, and go to town.
how's that for a little food for thought.
Brandon
untchbl said:
Crap... now I'm full.
You make a pretty good point. I know when I had most of my "engine" problems was when I was new at the hobby. Having a background working on and rebuilding small engines and 1:1 car engines, I understood how tuning needs time and engines need time to accept it. Most times results aren't noticed within the first 10 seconds of a change...
Very true, but there are guys that will lean on it 3 hours without even knowing what their engines want.
If I give an os 10e carb 3 hours on my MT.12, it's going to mean about 40 degrees or so. If I give 3 hours on the RB it's maybe 15 degrees.
And every engine is going to be different.
I just always see guys fiddling with their needle settings, and never realizing that they've been on the wood for freaking ever, and that the engine might be a couple degrees hotter then what they tuned for, so they take a bit out, and end up with something that is a bit rich.
I think the reason for most nitro racers inconsitentcie, is due mostly to improper tunning or care.
Brandon
If I give an os 10e carb 3 hours on my MT.12, it's going to mean about 40 degrees or so. If I give 3 hours on the RB it's maybe 15 degrees.
And every engine is going to be different.
I just always see guys fiddling with their needle settings, and never realizing that they've been on the wood for freaking ever, and that the engine might be a couple degrees hotter then what they tuned for, so they take a bit out, and end up with something that is a bit rich.
I think the reason for most nitro racers inconsitentcie, is due mostly to improper tunning or care.
Brandon
- Thread starter
- #19
I agree with you in part, I am very anal about my toys....My problems seem to come from new variables every time I go out.....I can trouble shoot down to the part that's giving me the problem but getting to the cause of the problem is a little more difficult....I'm having clutch issues right now and can't seem to figure out why I'm killing them so fast.....I just ran 5 tanks and I went through yet another sest of shoes....luckily I check everything frequently so I don't tear the whol thing up.....Corrado gave me some tips and they seem to make a dfference but I'm still having issues......I find it funny that the T-maxx is the truck everybody says is the worst to tune and I actually had the least problems with it.....The Serpent is the worst cause there are so many adjustments you can make I spend more time tweaking the chassis than driving ( by the way I am looking to trade it if anyone is interested, Serpent 705)..I'm just blowin steam cause I'm havin to deal with this problem and I liked everyones comments on this Thanks again......Now let me rebuild this thing AGAIN
....................cause I need my Nitro fix tommorrow HEHE.....One thing I've noticed is the OS engines are definately the most reliable I've tried anyone else agree?
....................cause I need my Nitro fix tommorrow HEHE.....One thing I've noticed is the OS engines are definately the most reliable I've tried anyone else agree?
Well, as for the clutch, this is what I used: Flywheel, Shoes and springs, CB and rc-solutions spur.
This setup lasted over a gallon with a an OS 21 RG on my maxx and I used the same, but with HPI's 14T cb on my savage with a higher HP engine than the OS 21 RG for 3 and a half gallons so far. The shoes on the OS 21 RG still look like new, but I sold the maxx after I ran a gallon or so through it. Kept the engine and clutch setup.
This setup lasted over a gallon with a an OS 21 RG on my maxx and I used the same, but with HPI's 14T cb on my savage with a higher HP engine than the OS 21 RG for 3 and a half gallons so far. The shoes on the OS 21 RG still look like new, but I sold the maxx after I ran a gallon or so through it. Kept the engine and clutch setup.
