is a lrp 32 spec 2 too much power for a stock savage x?

[pelicanprentice]

I've got a savage x with the stock f4.6 and i can get a decent price on a lrp zr32 spec 2, however was wondering if its too much power for a stock savage x?
i have grown a liking to bash in thick grass and i want more power, however i dont want too much power that I'm breaking parts. however if the upgrades are cheap, then i guess i dont mind!

thanks!

 

[Greywolf74]

I see people running .32's in their MTs all the time. You should be fine with it

 

[Racer 1966]

I put SH28 on my Savage 25 and it started breaking stuff left and right. To get back to reliable I went to steel spur/ hardened clutch bell, bulletproof diffs and titanium rear dog bones. I don't remember for sure but I think the X already has the diffs, spur and bell upgrades. I don't remember the maker's name of the dog bones but if you are not running a spooled/locked diff like I was, you may not need the bones. If you need to buy the stuff good luck finding it. Savage parts had been getting hard to find unless it has recently changed.

 

[olds97_lss]

I ran sintered BP diffs, steel spur, super HD outer bones and 50K in the front/rear diffs. The original X came with machined non-bp diffs, not sure if they updated them or not. I got take off BP diffs and they had the super HD sized cups on them. At first, I took them apart and my old diffs apart to use my old out drives. Then later on, I just got the SHD stubs and bones then put the HD outdrives back in the diffs. Never had an issue with the diffs/axles after that. I would shear the center one on occasion...

I started with a plastic spur, but if I didn't lock down the slipper nut, it would slip, then melt the center out of the gear within a few minutes of running in grass. All I could do to combat it was to run lower gearing so there wasn't so much stress on the slipper. I was running an LRP28S3 at the time. But it felt so slow and after dropping down to a 47T (can't recall the bell) and melting out the second one in a row, I replaced it with the steel HPI one. Then it would slip when needed and didn't melt. Never messed with the spur again after that.

I ended up running an LRP30 in it and it did fine. As long as you upgrade the diffs and perhaps the spur... the 32 should be fine as well with minimal maintenance. Just keep a close eye on the 10x16 bearing on the cup side of the diffs, it likes to die and then tear up your ring/pinions.

 

[pelicanprentice]

I ran sintered BP diffs, steel spur, super HD outer bones and 50K in the front/rear diffs. The original X came with machined non-bp diffs, not sure if they updated them or not. I got take off BP diffs and they had the super HD sized cups on them. At first, I took them apart and my old diffs apart to use my old out drives. Then later on, I just got the SHD stubs and bones then put the HD outdrives back in the diffs. Never had an issue with the diffs/axles after that. I would shear the center one on occasion...

I started with a plastic spur, but if I didn't lock down the slipper nut, it would slip, then melt the center out of the gear within a few minutes of running in grass. All I could do to combat it was to run lower gearing so there wasn't so much stress on the slipper. I was running an LRP28S3 at the time. But it felt so slow and after dropping down to a 47T (can't recall the bell) and melting out the second one in a row, I replaced it with the steel HPI one. Then it would slip when needed and didn't melt. Never messed with the spur again after that.

I ended up running an LRP30 in it and it did fine. As long as you upgrade the diffs and perhaps the spur... the 32 should be fine as well with minimal maintenance. Just keep a close eye on the 10x16 bearing on the cup side of the diffs, it likes to die and then tear up your ring/pinions.

thanks for the indepth reply bortha. i think at this point it might be better for me to look at a slightly less powerful engine. i dont really bash too much but maybe if i can easily find the parts ill upgrade.

did you notice a big diff between the lrp28s3 and the lrp30 for grass? i want to run primarily in grass from now on, i hope the lower gearing will help but i got my eye on a lrp28s3 but might change my mind if power is a concern

 

[olds97_lss]

The 30S2 was a bit of a light switch engine. Had loads of power down low, but didn't have the rev's/top end the 28S3 had. For what I do, the 28S3 was the better engine, but mine had issues. I've had 3 or 4 of the 28S3's and they are great long lasting engines. I figured out eventually (after replacing the 28S3 with the 30S2), that a big part of my tuning issues was due to a leaky fuel tank. It wasn't sealing properly around the lid. After getting through break-in with the 30S2, the lack of holding a tune was still present. Then I replaced the fuel tank and retuned, then it was pretty good. Still though, it ran better with the more open HPI polished pipe. The 28S3 liked a more restrictive pipe like the Losi LST2 HT pipe. I still have the old 28 around here somewhere. Kind of a backup for the one I have in my big block revo.

If you do go with the 32, it will likely prefer a higher flowing pipe.

 

[pelicanprentice]

thx all for the help and sorry for my noobness. I'm really stuck between my two options, thanks for all the help so far yall but it seems like the 28 will have more revs but the 32 will have more down low power.
for me personally, i strictly want to run on grass so i want power, however my dream would be to have tons of acceleration and a decent top speed. idrk which engine would be ebtter for that. seems like more revs means more speed, however maybe the 32 will translate into better acceleration?

could someone explain the diff like I'm 5 and which would be better suited?

thx!!!!

 

[Greywolf74]

Torque and speed are always at odds with each other. You sacrifice one to get the other so the best choice just depends on what your end goal is for the truck. Bear in mind though that gearing can help make up for torque or speed to an extent also no matter which way you go. Given that nitro gearing generally has less options available compared to electrics I generally go for the .28's. IMO they are the best all around engine size. Generally plenty of torque and speed for most applications so I would say start there. At the end of the day though if you feel like you just dont have enough torque for what you want and youve explored all gearing options then Id say make the decision to move up to a .30 or .32 but Id be willing to bet that you'll be happy with the .28 and if it were me thats generally what I put on my 1/8 scale nitros.

 

[pelicanprentice]

Torque and speed are always at odds with each other. You sacrifice one to get the other so the best choice just depends on what your end goal is for the truck. Bear in mind though that gearing can help make up for torque or speed to an extent also no matter which way you go. Given that nitro gearing generally has less options available compared to electrics I generally go for the .28's. IMO they are the best all around engine size. Generally plenty of torque and speed for most applications so I would say start there. At the end of the day though if you feel like you just dont have enough torque for what you want and youve explored all gearing options then Id say make the decision to move up to a .30 or .32 but Id be willing to bet that you'll be happy with the .28 and if it were me thats generally what I put on my 1/8 scale nitros.

gotcha thanks!! i guess thr 28 would also use less fuel so that a +

 

[Blitz987]

gotcha thanks!! i guess thr 28 would also use less fuel so that a +

All lrps are fuel hogs. if u get any lrp engine i recommend u take it apart and check to see if there are any burrs in the sleeve. also the lrp 32 spec 4.1 will be dropping soon so there's that. it will have turbo plug, better carb and better quality control. all these have been confirmed by the lads over at Lrp. great engines for the price. great power