• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

I'm sure this is not a good thing

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

pjoseph

RCTalk Qualifier
Messages
173
Reaction score
0
Points
91
Location
studio city CA
sazyhune.jpg


I decided to open up my new nitro engine since the piston was getting stuck on me last two nights.
Not exactly sure what that is on the sleeve looks almost like rust but not sure.

Anyway this engine is only maybe two months old with a little more than 1/2 gallon in it. It has run great until last two days with piston stuck.
Engine was always preheated prior to starting and was treated like a new born infant. Always burned remaining fuel after use and used after run oil after. Always cleaned the head with some wd 40 folled by compressed air prior to removing glow plugs. I actually would hold the truck upside down while removing or putting the plug in just incase there is something missed on the plug that comes loose while moving it.

Any ideas?
 
I may be wrong but it looks to me like that is the chrome liner of your sleeve peeling off. I've never had that happen to one of my engines. That would be a quality control issue that the manufacturer would like to be aware of and they just might give you a new sleeve and piston. I'm pretty sure it's not rust because the sleeve is made out of brass and then chrome plated. When they do chrome plating, the surface has to be clean and free of stuff like oil and grease or the plating will not stick to the surface. That just might be what happened here. Run your finger nail across the surface of those marks and if the chrome is gone you should be able to feel it.
 
Well maybe a couple 'could be this' thoughts.

Did the engine get a proper break in? That first half gallon is critical to the overall life of a nitro engine. Allowing the engine to heat up properly before running at high speed is very important. All the parts expand at different rates while warming up. Signs of chrome scoring off tells me that the piston expanded before the sleeve did.

Are you using after run oil and setting piston a BDC when not in use? Hopefully yes to both.

But the suspicious lack of carbon on top of the piston tells me that maybe running to lean for some reason. Whether its a lean carb setting or an air leak causing this is hard to know. Do you watch your temps with an accurate gun? I doubt this is the problem though. Lack of carbon can be attributed to using good quality nitro. If getting to lean, some 'bluing' would probably be present as sign of damage.

So leads me back to cold seizure potential due to expansion related problem.
 
Piston was always placed bdc after use and yes i was always taking temp readings
Temps would always stay between 220 to 230
I used heat cylcle method for for a min of 7 tanks. I dont believe i leaned it out much at all as it ran great close to factory needle settings.
 
I guess i will be calling os today and I'm sure i will have to send the engine in.
Mrbones i hope you are right ands its the chrome platting coming off
 
gy6yda8e.jpg


Well i took off the head again just to see if i could feel difference in finish over those spots on sleeve and it looks like two of the spots are gone???
So i dont believe its a problem with sleeve coating. It seems more like a build up of some kind could it be from running too rich some kind of fuel build up?
The only thing i did last night was add some afer run oil and put the head back on and moved flywheel some with my hand to move oil around.

I can see that same stuff on side of piston looking in from exhaust opening.

Any ideas? Could this just be something that needs to be cleaned and good togo?
 
Now it looks like rust. Maybe caused by no oil coating the crankshaft. Our methanol fuel is like a sponge at sucking up humidity. (we used to use methanol as "dry gas" to get the water out of our gas tanks on cars.) Putting after run oil in the plug hole does nothing to protect the crank from corrosion. What I do ( and I'm sure someone will say I shouldn't be using it) is pull the plug and spray WD40 into the carb while I'm cranking it over. That way it sucks it in and coats everything internal. (I've read that WD40 will ruin the seals, but for me, it hasn't happened yet) So if that's rust on the sleeve, you should be able to take the crank out and clean everything and put it back together and go.
 
I just got this engine last month so i mailed it back during my lunch to OS, let them deal with it.
I have to imagine that there has to be some damage from that rust getting all over the sleeve to the point that it caused the piston to get completely stuck.
I am not sure what i could have done differently to avoid this as i mentioned before i used afterrun oil after use followed by a few turns on the starter box.
Either way i dont think that should happen on a month old engine. Will have to wait and see what they say
 
long story short, i purchased a O.S. 18tz nitro engine in July of this year. First 7 tanks mostly break in time but ran well. One day i try and start it and the piston is stuck and wont move. I do use one of the engine heaters prior to starting, always burn remaining fuel, piston bottom center when done, and after run oil. When i took off the head to take a look i saw a lot of rust deposits on the sleeve and piston, i think it built up and caused the piston to eventually jam. next i took the back plate off and i find the rust is coming from the crankshaft, and made its way up into the chamber.

So i call OS/hobbico end up sending the engine in and they replace the bearings, crank, piston and sleeve. Three weeks later i get it back today because of back ordered parts. First thing i do is take off the back plate just to make sure it looks good, and i find rust! Not as bad as before but this is suppose to be all brand new, pieces of rust all over the inside of the crankcase and under the piston, the inside center part of the shaft is all rust. What do you guys think? see link for photos
https://www.flickr.com/photos/127515794@N04/
 
Wow! They didn't even bother to clean it out before reassembly!
Look close at pic #3 and you can see P/S killing junk by the bearing.

You might want to take some pic's on the macro setting, and fire off an e~mail to OS and see what their willing to do for you.

If they say nothing, or thell you it is what it is then at minimum I would do a tear-down and clean to get the FOD out of it, clean up the parts lightly coat them with ARO & reassemble.

I would say I'm shocked that they sent it back to you like that but it seems hiring quality people is a thing of the past anymore.
 
Yeah it seem to me like they should have never returned it in that condition. If they were going to take responsibilty for part of it they should have taken responsibilty for all of it IMO.
 
I called today and asked to speak with bill baxter who is the manager guy was giving me hard time and then said he is out to lunch, i asked for his email and the guy said he can't give it out. He took my number and said bill will call u, did not hear from him yet. Not a chance i am accepting what they sent me. I will be calling again in the am. I was so fired up to get the engine back, and now I'm just pissed as hell. I will be blown away if they give me a hard time about this. Wish me luck
 
That is NOT the way it should have left their shop. Stay at it and make SURE that picture gets through to the one in charge.
Let them know that it's posted on an RC forum and ALL them members are extremely disappointed by how it was handled.
I promise you they'll want to treat you right when they know that. I think you just got stuck with a lazy jerk who didn't think it mattered.
 
Well i talked to the manager yesterday, and i dont have a great feeling about it, I'm actually hesitating sending it back. I explained my story and his first response was all crankshafts are going to have rust on them. Is it possible that a brand new crank shaft out of the package could look like that after three days which is the time it took to ship back, no fuel has ever touched any of the new parts? I think i mentioned it above but i can't believe my 5 year old hpi
t-15 engine is rust free when i took the plate off and i was clueless about nitro when i had that. See link below the 5yr old hpi engine is the last photo.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/127515794@N04/sets/72157647265475901/

Does anyone know the email address of someone that is important at hobbico? Anyone i talk to will not give me an email address they say i need to use that general email address on their site.

I am blown away that this is how they treat a customer that has spent over $700 over the last two months with them. Like i said I'm still not sure what to do, they did send me the shipping label ect... but I'm not crazy with how the phone conversation went making me think twice about sending it back..
all i want to do is drive my spotless truck that has been sitting on my coffee table for the last three weeks, with brand new tires/rims and body, this is killing me!
 
Last edited:
Back
Top