i need help low end

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newnitro2020

Gone - bye bye.
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I'm going to hate doing this because I don't know if anyone could understand what I'm saying.


I want out try to do a video about tuning this Kyosho buggy. It was a disaster.


So much so that I got a headache now as I'm typing this with my voice.
Everything start off well as far as the high speed needle, I was able to run to the point of tuning the high speed and I ran it until I no longer saw no improvements and then I rich backup a quarter-turn rich so that'll be 1/4 2/8's.

The problem came when I was trying to tune the low speed needle. The engine had no problems idling. But I can't seem to get this damn thing to shut off by the pinch test within three to four seconds.

When the tank gets full if I warm up the engine and gets up to at least 200 or 205.
I am able to pinch the fuel line with a full tank of fuel and get at least three seconds.

The confusion starts where when the tank gets half empty that it shuts off between 1 to 2 seconds.

Now if you have to adjust the carburetor to the point where when you turn off your engine it should be a 3 to 4 second range, then how come the air-fuel mixture ratio differs when it gets half empty or sometimes even a quarter empty?


I spent about 3-4 hours outside. I finally gave up and went home because it was raining.



Can somebody help me here?

Is there an actual real answer to how long does an engine take before it shuts off pinching a fuel line.

I see that it performs okay it produces a large amount of smoke which is sort of like a thin Trail similar to when I put it up to full throttle. I also noticed that with the engine shutting off under 3 seconds or four seconds either way, the engine seems to run okay .

From zero to partial it produces a good amount of smoke from the low end.



If I try to adjust it to the point where I can shut off 3 second the engine would not run properly. And there's no point of adjusting the idle because it's so small that it can actually run a consistent idle without stalling.





But I did not have no luck in tuning the low speed needle at all. Every time the fuel tank gets half empty it will deviate itself from shutting off on 3 seconds to 2 seconds.

Then when the engine gets about empty the engine start to build up high RPM sometimes.



My main concern is just trying to pitch it to the point where it was shut off perfectly I can't seem to get that done.

I tried to do videos but it looks like people don't watch him so I just go ahead and type it in text.

But be warned that I'm not good at typing.


Somebody help me on this low speed needle thing?
 
Did you tune the high speed needle first?
After you do, then you move to the low speed needle. You know when the low speed needle is good when you pinch the hose, then it will slightly increase in RPMs and then die around 3 seconds.
You have to tune the high speed first. Run it after each adjustment and the engine has to be warmed up. You have to run it to tune it like @cbaker65 mentioned in another thread.
I would also visually look at the needles and make sure they are flush with the housing if you want to start fresh with factory settings.
1/16 to 1/8" turn each time and run it after each adjustment. You will notice the change each time.
Make high speed passes with your car each time.
 
It is normal for the engine to rev up when you pinch the fuel line!
But not sure why it stays running longer ,but usually if it does stay running
longer ,means that the Lsn is still a little on the rich side ,so that being said ,
if the engine wont perform after you lean the lsn more ,then it could be a
different issue ,like maybe your idle gap is to far open for that Lsn adjustment ,
or the Hsn is just a little too lean for that Lsn adjustment!

Try adjusting the idle gap a little bit first ,if that dont work ,then try fattening
up the Hsn .as the Hsn is the main!
It is about match the needles together!
 
Did you tune the high speed needle first?
After you do, then you move to the low speed needle. You know when the low speed needle is good when you pinch the hose, then it will slightly increase in RPMs and then die around 3 seconds.
You have to tune the high speed first. Run it after each adjustment and the engine has to be warmed up. You have to run it to tune it like @cbaker65 mentioned in another thread.
I would also visually look at the needles and make sure they are flush with the housing if you want to start fresh with factory settings.
1/16 to 1/8" turn each time and run it after each adjustment. You will notice the change each time.
Make high speed passes with your car each time.
I'm not sure if you understand what I'm saying as far as what I typed.
To answer your question yes I missed the high-end first. Yes I warm up the engine first. I warmed up to at least 200. But it wasn't easy I had to lean from the factory settings so much to get to at least 208.

My post was talking about why is it that when a low speed needle during the pinch test when a tank is half empty, it shuts off within two seconds when it shut off under 3 seconds when the tank was full?

Why the engine give a false pinch test when the tank is full and then when it gets half empty it shuts off in 2 seconds deviating under 3 seconds.
It is normal for the engine to rev up when you pinch the fuel line!
But not sure why it stays running longer ,but usually if it does stay running
longer ,means that the Lsn is still a little on the rich side ,so that being said ,
if the engine wont perform after you lean the lsn more ,then it could be a
different issue ,like maybe your idle gap is to far open for that Lsn adjustment ,
or the Hsn is just a little too lean for that Lsn adjustment!

Try adjusting the idle gap a little bit first ,if that dont work ,then try fattening
up the Hsn .as the Hsn is the main!
It is about match the needles together!
What I'm talking about in the pinch test is how many seconds.
I'm not talking about problems with the engine revving when pitching the fuel line.



Here's what happened I tried to make a video on this today as far as going out.
I did Well on the high speed first, then after doing that, and keep in mind I warm the engine on to 200 or 199 degrees Before I mess with the high-end.



This conflict starts when tuning the low speed needed by the pinch test. The fuel tank could be full I could drive it around and it warms up even more.

then on full tank it just fluctuates First the engine runs in a way that it gives a good 3 seconds. But when it gets half empty when you pinch the line it it will die a lot less 3 seconds. It'll die in a way that it doesn't even rev up. Again this is happening when the tank is half empty from just simply using the car. I do this on a half empty tank the car will start actually raising temperature but not in a way that is bad it'll be between sometimes the 230's or 20s.






Is it normal for the low speed needle 3 second count to run normal on full tank, then when it gets half full completely it shuts off while lot less than 3 seconds. More like sometimes 1 to 2 seconds.
 
Last edited:
At 1:20 or so in your video you mentioned you are not getting anybody serious about helping you?
 
At 1:20 or so in your video you mentioned you are not getting anybody serious about helping you?
I apologize for that statement. It slipped off because I was frustrated. If I did say it then I didn't mean it. What I meant to say was that by my inabilities to not know how to communicate with people as far as to the spelling and forming sentences. I felt like that no one wasn't taking me seriously.

I'm not mad at nobody at all. I'm just that video I was angry with the fact that things just failed. I did a live stream just now and I talked about a lot of information I found interesting.


About this pinch test stuff. Stuff that I don't think no one would bother to study cuz they always for the Here and Now kind of mentality.


Even a big block engine some instruction manuals tell you if it turns off within two seconds you're good.

Of course I don't know how sure I am with the information I search for. I did a stream taking screenshots and then just talkin.





But the first video You're mentioning I was really renting just because I'm tired of failing. But if I mentioned that I wasn't getting taken seriously it wasn't an insult. It was just a fact that I feel like because of my inability with the forming sentences and posture and punctuations. Cuz I get criticized everyday people tell me I can understand what you're saying. Then when I do a video that I want to watch 15 or 30 minutes of it. I want to tell you if you personally are offended I'm sorry. I just had a bad day on Saturday.
 
It is normal for the engine to rev up when you pinch the fuel line!
But not sure why it stays running longer ,but usually if it does stay running
longer ,means that the Lsn is still a little on the rich side ,so that being said ,
if the engine wont perform after you lean the lsn more ,then it could be a
different issue ,like maybe your idle gap is to far open for that Lsn adjustment ,
or the Hsn is just a little too lean for that Lsn adjustment!

Try adjusting the idle gap a little bit first ,if that dont work ,then try fattening
up the Hsn .as the Hsn is the main!
It is about match the needles together!
yo tell me about this.
You know it was really confused about this whole pitch test stuff until I found out by looking up other manufacturers information on pinch testing.
I found that these thing has shut off 2 seconds.


But the key is it's not by how long it takes that will tell you if you're rich or lean.


The most misunderstood and probably the most controversial problem is. People were programmed to think that it takes 3 seconds for engine to shut off. Determine the pitch test is not by how long it takes for AIDS and shut off its by how the engine Acts.

If the engine speeds up slightly and dies at the same time as a speeds up slightly then it set correctly.

If the engine doing the pinch test takes 3 seconds to die but you don't hear the engine speeding up or nothing you could actually still run lean.



So another words I found there is no winning number in terms of the pinch test. But there is one thing for sure you always want to know.

I learned that the pinch test is more by how the engine sounds when you pinch the line. again it's supposed to speed up and then die at the same time. Tell me what you think of this video? Because I'm actually thinking about putting this information on an old thread. I'm also thinking of making a new thread because this is stuff that people don't understand.



And I just learned it around about 24 hours. I like for you to tell me how I explain it as far as explaining it well. Because if this information it's what I think it is. Then a lot of people misunderstood the pitch test a lot and that's why there's a lot of confusion. Thank you.
 
Hello
I have Ofna/Picco .26. 3.5 engine
It is brand new but old twin titan. The engine doesn't seem to have s low speed needle. Is it possible to not have a low speed needle? It has high speed needle
And a needle with a spring assuming its idle. Any help setting this engine up for break-in would be great.
Thank you.
Hello
I have Ofna/Picco .26. 3.5 engine
It is brand new but old twin titan. The engine doesn't seem to have s low speed needle. Is it possible to not have a low speed needle? It has high speed needle
And a needle with a spring assuming its idle. Any help setting this engine up for break-in would be great.
Thank you.
 
Hello
I have Ofna/Picco .26. 3.5 engine
It is brand new but old twin titan. The engine doesn't seem to have s low speed needle. Is it possible to not have a low speed needle? It has high speed needle
And a needle with a spring assuming its idle. Any help setting this engine up for break-in would be great.
Thank you.
Hello
I have Ofna/Picco .26. 3.5 engine
It is brand new but old twin titan. The engine doesn't seem to have s low speed needle. Is it possible to not have a low speed needle? It has high speed needle
And a needle with a spring assuming its idle. Any help setting this engine up for break-in would be great.
Thank you.
Hi thank you asking me your question.


There were some earlier nitro engines for RC cars that did not have a low-speed needle. The only needle it had was the high-speed.

I think it was around the late 90s now the reason I know this information because of this guy on YouTube hybrid RC.


I know there are some airplane engines that have one needle adjustment and then II needle adjustment is just nothing more but a idle screw opening.







Did you ever got instructions for those engines?

Cuz if it's just a high-end and the idle screw it shouldn't be as hard as I've went through. Because I'll tell you I wish the engine I had has a high speed and idle screw.

Perhaps it'd be helpful if you put a photo of what you're talkin about. Whatever I make post I always either put a photo or video also time I just put a video because on my illiteracy.

Hope to hear from you. Thank you for asking me.
 
Hi thank you asking me your question.


There were some earlier nitro engines for RC cars that did not have a low-speed needle. The only needle it had was the high-speed.

I think it was around the late 90s now the reason I know this information because of this guy on YouTube hybrid RC.


I know there are some airplane engines that have one needle adjustment and then II needle adjustment is just nothing more but a idle screw opening.







Did you ever got instructions for those engines?

Cuz if it's just a high-end and the idle screw it shouldn't be as hard as I've went through. Because I'll tell you I wish the engine I had has a high speed and idle screw.

Perhaps it'd be helpful if you put a photo of what you're talkin about. Whatever I make post I always either put a photo or video also time I just put a video because on my illiteracy.

Hope to hear from you. Thank you for asking me.
Thank you new nitro 2020
20210916_131452_HDR.jpg

I will post picks
On this pick it shows black screw with spring. Under carb opening
Pic2
20210916_131416_HDR.jpg
20210916_131404_HDR.jpg
 
I never use pinch test to set my LSN. As long as it can idle without loaded when you go from idle to full throttle, it is all good. More fuel in the tank means the tank has higher fuel pressure to push fuel. I would not worry too much and enjoy. Each engine is different even from the same brand or same lot. There is no perfect settings for all.
 
I never use pinch test to set my LSN. As long as it can idle without loaded when you go from idle to full throttle, it is all good. More fuel in the tank means the tank has higher fuel pressure to push fuel. I would not worry too much and enjoy. Each engine is different even from the same brand or same lot. There is no perfect settings for all.
Ask you something because another user on here said, that if the idling were to run different than the last time. that I need to readjust the low speed.

Let me ask you if the temperature changes or let's say the idle runs high than the last time and not normal. do you readjust the low speed needle again?

Because here's the conflict I thought that once a low-speed needle is adjusted you don't ever touch it.


And then any other tuning would be the high speed needle unless if you're changing glow plugs, if you're changing fuel, and if you're changing exhaust pipe.

Here's the screenshot of this dude.
 

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Hello
I have Ofna/Picco .26. 3.5 engine
It is brand new but old twin titan. The engine doesn't seem to have s low speed needle. Is it possible to not have a low speed needle? It has high speed needle
And a needle with a spring assuming its idle. Any help setting this engine up for break-in would be great.
Thank you.
Hello
I have Ofna/Picco .26. 3.5 engine
It is brand new but old twin titan. The engine doesn't seem to have s low speed needle. Is it possible to not have a low speed needle? It has high speed needle
And a needle with a spring assuming its idle. Any help setting this engine up for break-in would be great.
Thank you.
Okay so it looks like that low speed needle is just a fix screw that you say it does do anything. I wouldn't mess with it.


Cuz it look like it was modified where the needle is already set. And if it's not a low-speed needle or dummy screwed there. It's what I'm trying to say is if you're seeing a dummy screw.

It's probably set where you only have to mess with the high speed.



Again there are just Motors in the late 90s and I didn't even notice until I will subscribe to a guy named hybrid RC.

In 1998 they had HPI Motors that only had a high-speed mix adjustment.


Airplane engines actually have probably one or two adjustments the second adjustment most likely is the idle. But as far as fuel adjustment it's probably need a high speed.







How you came across this item if it's brand new? Did you buy it recently? I'm thinking that it might have been modified where you can only set the high speed?



I have a question does it have an idle screw or is that set where you can't adjusted?



I've seen stuff like this before but I heard that their hundreds and thousands of dollars.

I know there was an article I believe in 2004 the Choppers motorcycle show. They had I think something like that I think it was either brought to them as a gift or someone was showing the truck off.


Yeah have you ever test the engines out or I guess if it's brand new I guess you haven't but I'm just getting to know. Sorry I didn't answer earlier it's just I was busy busy busy.
I wish I could help try everything I couldn't answer. I don't know too much I'm still learning so.
Hello
I have Ofna/Picco .26. 3.5 engine
It is brand new but old twin titan. The engine doesn't seem to have s low speed needle. Is it possible to not have a low speed needle? It has high speed needle
And a needle with a spring assuming its idle. Any help setting this engine up for break-in would be great.
Thank you.
Hello
I have Ofna/Picco .26. 3.5 engine
It is brand new but old twin titan. The engine doesn't seem to have s low speed needle. Is it possible to not have a low speed needle? It has high speed needle
And a needle with a spring assuming its idle. Any help setting this engine up for break-in would be great.
Thank you.
Okay so it looks like that low speed needle is just a fix screw that you say it does do anything. I wouldn't mess with it.


Cuz it look like it was modified where the needle is already set. And if it's not a low-speed needle or dummy screwed there. It's what I'm trying to say is if you're seeing a dummy screw.

It's probably set where you only have to mess with the high speed.



Again there are just Motors in the late 90s and I didn't even notice until I will subscribe to a guy named hybrid RC.

In 1998 they had HPI Motors that only had a high-speed mix adjustment.


Airplane engines actually have probably one or two adjustments the second adjustment most likely is the idle. But as far as fuel adjustment it's probably need a high speed.







How you came across this item if it's brand new? Did you buy it recently? I'm thinking that it might have been modified where you can only set the high speed?



I have a question does it have an idle screw or is that set where you can't adjusted?



I've seen stuff like this before but I heard that their hundreds and thousands of dollars.

I know there was an article I believe in 2004 the Choppers motorcycle show. They had I think something like that I think it was either brought to them as a gift or someone was showing the truck off.


Yeah have you ever test the engines out or I guess if it's brand new I guess you haven't but I'm just getting to know. Sorry I didn't answer earlier it's just I was busy busy busy.
I wish I could help try everything I couldn't answer. I don't know too much I'm still learning so.
blog talk
 
Last edited:
Ask you something because another user on here said, that if the idling were to run different than the last time. that I need to readjust the low speed.

Let me ask you if the temperature changes or let's say the idle runs high than the last time and not normal. do you readjust the low speed needle again?

Because here's the conflict I thought that once a low-speed needle is adjusted you don't ever touch it.


And then any other tuning would be the high speed needle unless if you're changing glow plugs, if you're changing fuel, and if you're changing exhaust pipe.

Here's the screenshot of this dude.
I wouldn't change much once the needles are set, I would just warm up to the operating temperature first and try to run it first, maybe minor adjustments after. Anything done before warm up is a waste of time. If you live in cold weather like me, even real car engine with run in fast idle until warm up.
 
I wouldn't change much once the needles are set, I would just warm up to the operating temperature first and try to run it first, maybe minor adjustments after. Anything done before warm up is a waste of time. If you live in cold weather like me, even real car engine with run in fast idle until warm up.
so you're saying that the idle might change it cuz it's cold and then as it warms up it starts to run normal?
I live in the Philadelphia area
 
So it works like this if the season changes from hot to cold like winter I have to retune the low and just for that season. And then if I run my nitro engine for That season it only tuning I worry about is the high-end. Until the season changes completely. If the season changes completely then I retune the low and for that season and then tune the high speed a lot to be consistent with the weather change.


Sounds like to me that you don't touch the low speed needle much if your tune is based on the season. But if that season change from Summer to fall then you touch the low speed needed when the seasons change.


Cuz the way everybody explain it that once you change the low and you don't touch it. I found out I'm I think I'm wrong because I do. tell me if I'm correct about what I'm talking about?
 
Changes are very minor once you tuned it, the key is to warm up in cold weather. We don't take our real car to tune up based on seasons. The Air is colder and it will take longer to tune up. Unless you are driving a NASCAR or something, to get the maximum performance between day and night time, you may change your settings, but they don't go and tune their engines between stops. Don't over think too much.
I meant warm up instead of tune up.
 
Changes are very minor once you tuned it, the key is to warm up in cold weather. We don't take our real car to tune up based on seasons. The Air is colder and it will take longer to tune up. Unless you are driving a NASCAR or something, to get the maximum performance between day and night time, you may change your settings, but they don't go and tune their engines between stops. Don't over think too much.
I meant warm up instead of tune up.
I think I understand now.

The high-speed is mostly meant for big adjustments.

But the low speed you don't have to touch as much and if you do have to adjust it it's very small adjustments then the high-end. So I guess that's what people me not to touch the low and unless you have to.

But if necessary after warm up the engine then yes. Otherwise if the idle tune is the same then don't touch it.

Touch the high speed because that needs adjustment.


So I think I get it.

A lot of people seem to focus on the high-end more then they do the low end.
Cuz some people believe that once it's set you don't have to touch it. I'm guessing that it's based upon where they live in supposed to new Jersey or Philadelphia.

But just to confirm, high speed you touch a lot?

The low end he touch once in awhile if need be when the temperature affects the functioning of the idle?
 

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