I may be a junkie.... I don't know

[Rdizz]

Brand new Rustler stock out of the box. After 3 pages of some tech help looks like I finally got things figured out! thanks to EVERYONE who helped me.

Now on to the fun stuff. Yes I already want to upgrade, why you ask? because it is almost more fun to me to swap/upgrade parts and work on it then it is to drive it lol...

Here is a cart I Built at Tower everything look good in here as far as fitment and upgrades or would you guys suggest some changes?

 

[Rolex]

SCORED!
Good fix. It will hold you for a little while.

 

[BamaFan]

Only thing I would can would be the Traxxas 20% fuel. It doesn't do that engine justice. I would run Byron 25-30% with 11% oil. You will get all kinds of opinion on fuels but I'm a believer in Byrons fuel. I use to run Traxxas fuel and to me it's a engine killer. Almost like it has too much oil content. Since I switched to Byrons 30% 11% oil content I have engines with 10-12 gallons through them and still running strong. As far as the resonator pipe if you have a newer Traxxas rustler the pipe on there is fine. Your not going to gain that much from switching the pipe. It helps a little but honestly on the rustler your not going to notice that much difference. I would definitely look into the rear shock tower upgrade too. That's honestly one of the first things that snapped on mine and the wheel carriers. I snapped wheel carriers almost every time I ran mine. I also never has good luck with fuel filters. I don't run them anymore at all. I couldn't keep my engines tuned right for some reason when I put a fuel filter on. This is all just my opinion's.

 

[Surlyman]

Like Bamafan said id ditch the Traxxas fuel, and get O'donnell or Byron 25-30%. Their superior oils have better lubrication qualities at a lower oil content, allowing more power and cooler temps then that of lower grade, lower nitro content fuel. They also almost make the need for after run oil nonexistent. Just run it dry and crank it over with an ignitor on the plug till it stops wanting to fire (this will save glow plugs) when you are putting it away for the day, it will start right up every time. I only use after run oil if it I won't be running that car for awhile.

Also 10 bucks is a little spendy for a filter, idk maybe I'm cheap haha but I like these guys for my nitros.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFRL5&P=FR&gclid=CLi17rWT2cMCFc9lfgod9WoAQw
They fit anywhere, and they have a little plug that allows one to loop the fuel system for storage. It also works as a handy mount.
ssnot race car blue doh'

Edit: I would also add a rechargeable receiver battery. The added voltage alone is worth the upgrade. Will suit that servo better too not to mention the cost of AA's add up rather quickly having to buy them for the rx too.

 

[alpinehyperlite]

I disagree. The traxxas motors/fuel were designed around each other. I wouldnt run it in any other brand motor though. Not sure if it is still the case, but at one time if you didnt run traxxas fuel, they wouldnt honor warranty on the motors.

Always use ARO. Always.

 

[Surlyman]

Ten years ago I would use it every time, without fail. With the advanced fuels available today (not all fuels) its just not as necessary as it used to be. Not saying it should be used no way not never. I always have a bottle in my field bag, and maybe I just get the chance to run more than others, but I'm defiantly not the only one with this opinion. But ARO never hurts and I would absolutely use it after running Traxxas fuel.

Scheeeeech, back on the OP's topic

It is still true about the engine warranty, and if you have ever disassembled an engine that has been running blue fuel, Traxxas or otherwise, it is blatantly apparent (its a sticky blue mess.) So if this is a concern, run the traxx fuel. And I would usually second the notion of using OEM components/products, but not fuel. I leave that to the people who go to work every day R&D'ing for improvements in their products, as on the flip side Traxxas does with their cars/trucks. Maybe I'm way out in left field. I don't use HPI fuel neither.

 

[Rdizz]

Hmmm, Thanks for all the replies! This is all good info to soak in. What about the servo, there is nothing wrong with mine (stock one) as is now...

Is this a considerable upgrade will it be a noticeable difference? or should I just stick with the stock servo? Are these just drop in or will I need to buy a new receiver as well?

 

[hamz9561]

Go ahead and purchase the servos as they are a direct fit. They are a bit faster and stronger than the stock Traxxas stuff.

 

[Surlyman]

Hmmm, Thanks for all the replies! This is all good info to soak in. What about the servo, there is nothing wrong with mine (stock one) as is now...

Is this a considerable upgrade will it be a noticeable difference? or should I just stick with the stock servo? Are these just drop in or will I need to buy a new receiver as well?

First and foremost, get a receiver hump pack, good ones can be had on amazon for $15-20 this will up your voltage to 6.0 which will give your servos more umph and you wouldn't have to buy as many AA's.

What model number servo do you have now? Traxxas lists the stock one as the 2055. This is a plastic geared unit rated 86.0oz of torque @ 6.0V. Less @ 4.8V (AA's.)
The Hitec listed in your cart is a metal geared unit rated 164.2oz @ 6.0V, and 143oz @ 4.8V.
@ 6.0V they are about the same speed, not anything to noticeable, 60° in 1.8 sec for the Hitec and 2.0sec for the 2055 Traxxas.

Your stock servo probably won't take the wheels lock to lock at a stand still, that Hitec would. All depends on where you want to put your money. I think it would be a good upgrade after the hump pack.

 

[Rdizz]

Well I ordered it all lol.... I have a problem.

First and foremost, get a receiver hump pack, good ones can be had on amazon for $15-20 this will up your voltage to 6.0 which will give your servos more umph and you wouldn't have to buy as many AA's.

What model number servo do you have now? Traxxas lists the stock one as the 2055. This is a plastic geared unit rated 86.0oz of torque @ 6.0V. Less @ 4.8V (AA's.)
The Hitec listed in your cart is a metal geared unit rated 164.2oz @ 6.0V, and 143oz @ 4.8V.
@ 6.0V they are about the same speed, not anything to noticeable, 60° in 1.8 sec for the Hitec and 2.0sec for the 2055 Traxxas.

Your stock servo probably won't take the wheels lock to lock at a stand still, that Hitec would. All depends on where you want to put your money. I think it would be a good upgrade after the hump pack.

You are talking about this correct?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHFP6&P=ML

 

[Surlyman]

Hey even at 4.8V it will have a bunch more torque than the 2055. Hard to go wrong.

And yep, one of them there batteries, although I personally use these,
http://www.amazon.com/Venom-1600mAh...8&qid=1423674450&sr=8-5&keywords=rc+hump+pack
Cheaper and higher capacity. They also have a 5000mAh model for $35.

 

[hamz9561]

I would purchase it from somewhere other than Amazon, though. Try looking at AMain.com or RPPhobby.com.

 

[Rdizz]

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSFS5&P=7

Look good?

 

[Surlyman]

True that, I make my large purchases at my LHS or reputable online retailers, but when the cost with shipping is an additional 40-80%, and the over all cost is not going to make or break a place like AMain or Tower, Amazon is going to win out every time for me especially on consumables, too many dang hobbies and interests haha. Ten bucks will buy a box of ammo or lunch.

And yep thats the same one! Bomb price too, Towers shipping is kinda spendy though (but dang they package it nicely) so I like to build up an order as you did.

Edit: And lets not forget about their awesome discount codes!

 

[Greywolf74]

I like THESE hump packs for the price. Either that or find ones that are parted out from RTRs on ebay.

I also prefer Savox servos. Hitec makes great servos but Savox is also high quality and usually a little cheaper price wise.

 

[ninnon]

Brand new Rustler stock out of the box. After 3 pages of some tech help looks like I finally got things figured out! thanks to EVERYONE who helped me.

Now on to the fun stuff. Yes I already want to upgrade, why you ask? because it is almost more fun to me to swap/upgrade parts and work on it then it is to drive it lol...

Here is a cart I Built at Tower everything look good in here as far as fitment and upgrades or would you guys suggest some changes?

Personally i'd change the fuel to Byrons 25%, and a bit of advice- Don't upgrade everything to aluminium just because it looks so sparkly, it can sometimes add weight- and if you have a bad crash it'll bend- but sometimes only a bit and it's a pain trying to find which bits bent....just don't tell Rolex.

 

[hamz9561]

Personally i'd change the fuel to Byrons 25%, and a bit of advice- Don't upgrade everything to aluminium just because it looks so sparkly, it can sometimes add weight- and if you have a bad crash it'll bend- but sometimes only a bit and it's a pain trying to find which bits bent....just don't tell Rolex.

@Rolex already knows. That's why the Bling Thing is either sitting on a shelf, being polished or pushed carefully around on the floor by the pants-less one yelling, "Vroom! Vroom!"

 

[Surlyman]

I like THESE hump packs for the price. Either that or find ones that are parted out from RTRs on ebay.

Always been curious about that brand, wasn't really sure, I'm in the market for another so Ill give it a try.

I think he's got his order placed.

Pretty sure the OP opted to go with Traxxas fuel based on the warranty and is whats recommended for the truck by the manufacturer. Nuffn' wrong with that. (I don't use the stuff though)

And the RPM arms he ordered are plastic, not aluminum.

 

[hamz9561]

They can't deny warranty work for not using their fuel, as long as it meets their specs. I never ran the Top Fuel in mine but ran one that had similar specs.

 

[Surlyman]

I know of two personally that were denied the lifetime engine replacement because of that reason, all they have is your word that you were using brand XXX fuel that meets their "standards" if the inside of the engine is not blue. But I also believe anything is possible if you talk to the right person.

Suppose a person could side-step it by running a tank every now and then, but thats not very honest.

The standard warranty may very well be different scenario. Either way, I run O'donnell's or Byron's 25% and if a factory engine takes a dump, I'm not looking to replace it with another factory engine haha.