When I was breaking in my rtr truck the slow needle came loose. So I thightened it. Well I later came to realize that now the truck won't idle in neutral. So I tried to adjust the carburator to make it idle lower. And then I tried to adjust the main needle. And now I'm adjsuting all kinds of needles and screws and can't get it back in neutral. Is there a certain way to set everything to make the truck idle low ? It seems like comon sense to give it less gas and close the carb a little further but it seems to either idle way to high or die out. Is there any guidance you can give me ? Does the transmission have to idle low to be in neutral ? Or is there something I'm missing ??
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I have no clue what to do.
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Socomgod 420
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The most important thing right now is to stay calm, and have patients, we'll get you going again. You need to answer a few questions...what kind of truck do you have (name brand and model) and what engine is in it. When you refer to the slow needle where exactly is that needle...if possible pictures are worth 1000000000000 words!
HeartBreak
RCTalk VIP
If any of your needles are coming loose on their own, you need to replace the o-ring. It is possible that there is no oring at all on the needle. What's the make and model of the car it's in?
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It's a Beast VH-L1. The engine type is 15 CXP
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rocknbil
RCTalk Addict
The very first thing you need to do is PUT THAT AIR FILTER BACK ON AND NEVER RUN IT WITHOUT IT!
We know you're excited and just want to run the darn thing but take a step back and learn a bit about tuning. There's tons of info here and people will help you.
The HIGH SPEED NEEDLE (big tall one) meters all the fuel going into the engine. This is going to be where most of your tuning is done. The fuel is metered by the amount of vaccum pulled by the engine - that is, you adjust the fuel to the amoun of air being drawn through it.
The LOW SPEED SETTING is really only to adjust fuel input when the engine is at low to middle speeds. Rest to factory setting and fiddle with it ONLY if you get perfect tuning at mid to high speed and it is giving you trouble going from low to mid speed. Since you haven't even broken this engine in, that means LEAVE IT ALONE.
The IDLE SCREW (one with spring) is nothing more than a stop screw to prevent the carburetor from closing completely. This is what keeps it from idling so low as to stop the engine when it's tuned properly.
As has been mentioned, set everything back to the specifications in the manual, this is a starting point.
Now before beginning, take the air filter back off (I know what I said!
) and turn on all electronics with the engine OFF. Work the throttle and watch the opening in the carb. When you let go it should close to about the thickness of a credit card. If it doesn't, make SURE the throttle trims on the transmitter are moved toward the "brake" side. If it's still too far open, unscrew the idle screw a litle at a time until it closes up a little.
Now put the air filter back on and get it going. Proceed with tuning as you would - leave the "slow speed" needle alone, and adjust the HSN from rich to an optimum tune. If it still idles too high AFTER proper warm-up and tuning, let out the idle screw a little at a time until it idles down.
As I said there are hundreds of tuning threads on this board alone, all described and expressed differently - read some of them and you will ge the hang of what you're supposed to do for tuning.
We know you're excited and just want to run the darn thing but take a step back and learn a bit about tuning. There's tons of info here and people will help you.
The HIGH SPEED NEEDLE (big tall one) meters all the fuel going into the engine. This is going to be where most of your tuning is done. The fuel is metered by the amount of vaccum pulled by the engine - that is, you adjust the fuel to the amoun of air being drawn through it.
The LOW SPEED SETTING is really only to adjust fuel input when the engine is at low to middle speeds. Rest to factory setting and fiddle with it ONLY if you get perfect tuning at mid to high speed and it is giving you trouble going from low to mid speed. Since you haven't even broken this engine in, that means LEAVE IT ALONE.
The IDLE SCREW (one with spring) is nothing more than a stop screw to prevent the carburetor from closing completely. This is what keeps it from idling so low as to stop the engine when it's tuned properly.
As has been mentioned, set everything back to the specifications in the manual, this is a starting point.
Now before beginning, take the air filter back off (I know what I said!
) and turn on all electronics with the engine OFF. Work the throttle and watch the opening in the carb. When you let go it should close to about the thickness of a credit card. If it doesn't, make SURE the throttle trims on the transmitter are moved toward the "brake" side. If it's still too far open, unscrew the idle screw a litle at a time until it closes up a little.Now put the air filter back on and get it going. Proceed with tuning as you would - leave the "slow speed" needle alone, and adjust the HSN from rich to an optimum tune. If it still idles too high AFTER proper warm-up and tuning, let out the idle screw a little at a time until it idles down.
As I said there are hundreds of tuning threads on this board alone, all described and expressed differently - read some of them and you will ge the hang of what you're supposed to do for tuning.
Just so we understand each other...
The needle you marked as "main needle" will be called the HSN or High speed needle.
The needle you marked "slow needle" will be called the LSN or low speed needle.
The previos post should get you going in the right direction.
The needle you marked as "main needle" will be called the HSN or High speed needle.
The needle you marked "slow needle" will be called the LSN or low speed needle.
The previos post should get you going in the right direction.
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