Hot Bodies D8T with M2C Electric conversion. Now with Vorza chassis.

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Slick2500

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Um wth, so I was messing around with the steering on this and when manually moving the steering the power led on the rx lights up o_O
 

Slick2500

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So for the life of me I could not figure out why the front body posts were such a pain the you know what to put on, the body is the Proline Enforcer body for the D8T Ty Tessman Edition. I have the standard D8T. The Tessman had low profile carbon fiber shock towers. And I did not notice this until after I already ordered the last Hpi Enforcer D8T Ty Tessman body.............. Soooo I have 2 choices, either buy the right shock towers for the body, or by the right body for the truck. Amain has the stock body but idk if anyone has the shock towers.
 

D3MON

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So for the life of me I could not figure out why the front body posts were such a pain the you know what to put on, the body is the Proline Enforcer body for the D8T Ty Tessman Edition. I have the standard D8T. The Tessman had low profile carbon fiber shock towers. And I did not notice this until after I already ordered the last Hpi Enforcer D8T Ty Tessman body.............. Soooo I have 2 choices, either buy the right shock towers for the body, or by the right body for the truck. Amain has the stock body but idk if anyone has the shock towers.
i know in the past i kind of fabbed up my own body posts, using existing holes in the shock tower and a washer/nut on the back side, idk if this would be possible for you though.
 

Slick2500

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i know in the past i kind of fabbed up my own body posts, using existing holes in the shock tower and a washer/nut on the back side, idk if this would be possible for you though.
I was thinking about this too. I have a box full of spare body mounts off of other rcs I might look through that and see if I can find something that is a better fit.

It is $34.99 for the stock body(which I kind of like better than the Proline body because it looks more like a stadium truck body) or $94.40 for both shock towers(I'm sure I'll need both shock towers otherwise the body will have a rake too it on the chassis.)

Here is the stock body.
Hot-Bodies-D8T.jpg






This is the Proline body.
3446_l.jpg
 

D3MON

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think i like the stock better, its weird where bodies have gone to in appearance, i remember when "Race" bodies were like the RC10GT and DTX evader, TRX Rustler etc, now its all robotic looking lol.
 

Slick2500

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think i like the stock better, its weird where bodies have gone to in appearance, i remember when "Race" bodies were like the RC10GT and DTX evader, TRX Rustler etc, now its all robotic looking lol.
Right. They used to look like trucks.

So even though I now I'll loose my ass on it I think I'll sell the Proline body and get the stock body.
 

Slick2500

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I found a website that has a bunch of upgrade stuff available for the D8T.
I was trying to straighten this after I noticed it was bent and I broke it instead.

C3rDnCn.jpg


So I bought a brand new set from Jet Hobby

upWP7xw.jpg


Figured I would pick these aluminum chassis braces up while I was at it. And tossed in a Hobbywing Max8 and a Savox 1211sg servo.

UzHBc5n.jpg


And I am pretty sure these holes are not factory.

50m6E9Q.jpg
 

Slick2500

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I was trying to straighten this after I noticed it was bent and I broke it instead.

View attachment 119884

So I bought a brand new set from Jet Hobby

View attachment 119885

Figured I would pick these aluminum chassis braces up while I was at it. And tossed in a Hobbywing Max8 and a Savox 1211sg servo.

View attachment 119886

And I am pretty sure these holes are not factory.

View attachment 119887
I just noticed the 2 small cracks in the chassis today. New chassis is $134.50 plus shipping.
I can buy all the parts to make it a D8T/Vorza hybrid for like $80. It would have the look of a MT410 and Outcast/Notorious.
 
Last edited:

D3MON

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I just noticed the 2 small cracks in the chassis today. New chassis is $134.50 plus shipping.
I can buy all the parts to make it a D8T/Vorza hybrid for like $80. It would have the look of a MT410 and Outcast/Notorious.
yikes thats not good, and those holes definitely not factory, looks like someone tried their own B/L conversion? see alot of people using a piece of metal in the shape of an L and bolt it to where the factory engine mounts are, at least they semi decent, dont have the weird "wandering slot" look to them, but if you have to get a new chassis, get to start fresh anyways.
 

Slick2500

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yikes thats not good, and those holes definitely not factory, looks like someone tried their own B/L conversion? see alot of people using a piece of metal in the shape of an L and bolt it to where the factory engine mounts are, at least they semi decent, dont have the weird "wandering slot" look to them, but if you have to get a new chassis, get to start fresh anyways.
It almost looks like they tried to use the Vorza motor mount before getting the M2C mount.
 

Slick2500

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20200126_221923.jpg


Battery tray finally installed.
Center diff filled with 300k.
Spur changed to 48T, 50T was tagging the chassis and the wire retainer for the esc slightly, just enough to make an annoying noise.
Front and rear camber link ends and balls changed.
Changed front shock tower.
Attached front body mounts.
Have the rear body mounts ready to be drilled.

Things on to do list.
  • Change fluid in front and rear diff.
  • Change balls and steering link ends on steering links.
  • Install new front cvds.
  • Order some wheels/tires.
  • Decide on a body.
  • Order new front caster blocks because the current ones I don't think go to this truck. Not sure what truck they are for but the front cvds do not fit with the collars and dust boots on, the collars and stub axle rub on the inside of the caster block. The stub axles that are currently on it are different than the new ones as well so I don't think they are correct either.


Unknown stub axle on the left and new one on the right. The new one will rub inside the caster block as well.
20200126_223257.jpg


Where the aluminum collar was rubbing on the caster block.
20200126_223305.jpg
20200126_224415.jpg


I have a few choices for caster blocks.
Stock plastic ones for $13.75 https://www.amainhobbies.com/hb-racing-front-hub-carrier-set-10-hbs67386/p28245
Stock aluminum ones for $60.99 https://www.amainhobbies.com/hb-racing-aluminum-front-spindle-carrier-set-10-hbs67215/p150728
Hot Racing ones for $38.88 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Racing...066285&hash=item442ea0dfdd:g:XpkAAOSwqiJcAHdG
Integy ones for $5.75 https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=16568&p_catid=358#.Xi8-0mhKguU
Jet Hobby ones for $36.00 http://jethobby.com/_shop/product/product_detail.php?id=10444

I'm leaning more towards the Jet Hobby ones.
 

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