Build Thread Hobao Hyper TT 2.0 1/10 Scale 4wd Truggy

[RustyUs]

I was going to do a build thread on the Hobao platform earlier on, then I thought it's an ARR roller that I bought... no need to unbuild what those fine factory folks did. Right? What could have possibly gone wrong on that assembly line? I'm going to highlight some areas of the Hyper TT 2.0 that I found interesting.


Differentials

Everyone always says to go through the diffs on RTR platforms. Eww, the horror stories that I've read...

Easy access? Bah, ha, ha, ha . When the platform came out, I went straight to the manual to find out. When you go to do maintenance on the diffs, just lettin' y'all know, it's not a quick "wham, bam, thank you mam" couple of screws and they are out. It takes the removal of the front/rear clips to be able to get to the diffs... there's nothing quick about it. I knew this coming into the Hobao mini truggy purchase, because "easy access diffs" are pretty much a prerequisite for my RCs nowadays. It was ultimately the $41-ish price drop that pushed me over the edge to not care about "easy".

Opening up the diffs... they didn't look horribly low on fluid. Good job diff filler upper person(s). Pat yourselves on the back.

The stock diff fluids are said to be 5/5/3k (Front/Center/Rear). This seems really thin to me compared to my other lighter weight 1/10 4wd platforms which run somewhere in the 15/20/7k, and 10/15/7k ranges. The TT's planet gears seem "chunky" and may have more surface area that doesn't require thicker fluids? I'll have to get those gears broken in and see how things feel. Right now, the thinnest diff fluid I got is 4k. A couple drops of 4k and a drop of 1k shock fluid in the rear diff and I'm calling it good.

You all know how to button up a diff so....

Steering/Bell Cranks

What? No threadlock? Hello.
The servo saver hub set posts, and the ball studs/nuts lacked any of the necessary anaerobic anti-loosening good stuff. After taking a closer look in the manual, there's not one single mention, asterisk, or other visual cue to use thread lock on anything ... just a picture of a bottle in the beginning under the "Tools Recommended" section.

Also, take a look at the grooves on the turnbuckles/steering linkage . The one on the right has the groove on the right. Other than my Tekno rides, I orient my turnbuckles with markings to the left so that they coincide with the way I adjust them. Again, nothing mentioned in the manual.

 

[RustyUs]

Front Gear Box
Little bit of Maxima waterproof grease on the gears... in she goes. No shimming needed

When I was tearing down the truggy, one of few places that I found threadlocker being used... front differential joint cup set screw.
You can see the blue thread lock better in the second picture.

I had couple mishaps/disasters happen on other rides when this set screw comes loose.
I consider this to be one of the most important areas on 4wd platforms. Yes, that's my final answer.
All my RCs get the red threadlocker treatment here.

The TT 2.0's hinge pin braces & shock towers are machined compared to its predecessor's stamped pieces. Is 3mm enough? Hobao added a nice touch with the screw collars on the shock tower. Don't forget whip out the thread lock... again.

 

[RustyUs]

Pillow Balls/Suspension Arms


Manual shows 11214 part number, but the TT 2.0 comes with updated part... at least mine did.

I'm not a huge fan of pillow ball suspensions, from 1/8 scale standpoint anyways. Let's see if 1/10 scale can change my opinion. I cover the balls and composite pieces with "lube".

Since the anti-sway bars off now, they are not going back on until after test runs.

 

[RustyUs]

Rear Clip

Rear joint cup's set screw was extremely hard to take off during disassembly. Heated up that lil' mother bugger. Somebody on Hobao's assembly line finally came to their senses... looks like red thread lock was used .

Then this was found... not found:

Missing a droop screw in the rear arm . Contacted Hobao USA, and received a set of droop screws in a few days.

Right side turnbuckle groove was oriented the wrong way. The grooves are hard to see I'll give 'em that. Three-millimeter turnbuckles for anyone curious.

And, yes, don't forget to check for/use threadlocker on shock mounts, and ball studs. I use red/high strength stuff on my joint cup's set screw. Everything was your typical assembly for a rear end.

Dog Bones

Pins in the dog bones are 2mm.

 

[RustyUs]

Motor Mount/Center Diff

I would like to have seen a two-piece motor mount, but at the price point of Hyper TT 2.0, this will have to do. Nicely machined piece indeed. I do believe there is more material than what is on the original TT, but the choice to use a MOD1 spur gear on the center diff makes for a fun time at the looney bin... I get to that later. Using the supplied pinion gear, a person will have no problems.

Don't put away the threadlocker...

Psssst... don't tighten the chassis screws yet!

The only way to get center diff into the diff/motor mount; sit in the chassis cut out, is to have the mount loose...

 

[RustyUs]

Moving On

I don't think the platform was designed around easiness. I, for one, think the MOD1 spur gear is overkill for a 1/10 scale RC. Motors with a 3.17mm (1/8") diameter shaft, and MOD1 spur gears don't go hand in hand IMO. A MOD0.8/32P spur gear would have made more sense.

I'm not worried about chassis flex. The TT 2.0 with its dual tubing center brace should make for a very rigid core. All of my 4wd RCs with center dog bone style driveshafts get the o-ring treatment. One o-ring at each end takes up enough of the extra play.

I'm SO glad to see a bumper incorporated into the frontend.

Rear Clip

I changed out the ONE (and only) Phillips head screw that was used in the platform ...

The center diff is directly connected to the rear diff. Meaning, no little dog bone driveshaft, or extra drive cup to worry about. Is this a good thing? In any case, it makes for a more difficult teardown if only wanting to get to one of the diffs. You have to loosen the center diff/motor mounts in order to get line things to line up during assembly/disassembly. I made the mistake of tightening down the center diff and ran into not being able to slide the rear clip smoothly onto the chassis...

 

[majin]

I was going to do a build thread on the Hobao platform earlier on, then I thought it's an ARR roller that I bought... no need to unbuild what those fine factory folks did. Right? What could have possibly gone wrong on that assembly line? I'm going to highlight some areas of the Hyper TT 2.0 that I found interesting.


Differentials

Everyone always says to go through the diffs on RTR platforms. Eww, the horror stories that I've read...

Easy access? Bah, ha, ha, ha . When the platform came out, I went straight to the manual to find out. When you go to do maintenance on the diffs, just lettin' y'all know, it's not a quick "wham, bam, thank you mam" couple of screws and they are out. It takes the removal of the front/rear clips to be able to get to the diffs... there's nothing quick about it. I knew this coming into the Hobao mini truggy purchase, because "easy access diffs" are pretty much a prerequisite for my RCs nowadays. It was ultimately the $41-ish price drop that pushed me over the edge to not care about "easy".
View attachment 231154

Opening up the diffs... they didn't look horribly low on fluid. Good job diff filler upper person(s). Pat yourselves on the back.
View attachment 231110View attachment 231111View attachment 231109

The stock diff fluids are said to be 5/5/3k (Front/Center/Rear). This seems really thin to me compared to my other lighter weight 1/10 4wd platforms which run somewhere in the 15/20/7k, and 10/15/7k ranges. The TT's planet gears seem "chunky" and may have more surface area that doesn't require thicker fluids? I'll have to get those gears broken in and see how things feel. Right now, the thinnest diff fluid I got is 4k. A couple drops of 4k and a drop of 1k shock fluid in the rear diff and I'm calling it good.

You all know how to button up a diff so....
View attachment 231124View attachment 231125View attachment 231126

Steering/Bell Cranks
What? No threadlock? Hello.
The servo saver hub set posts, and the ball studs/nuts lacked any of the necessary anaerobic anti-loosening good stuff. After taking a closer look in the manual, there's not one single mention, asterisk, or other visual cue to use thread lock on anything ... just a picture of a bottle in the beginning under the "Tools Recommended" section. Also, take a look at the grooves in the turnbuckles .
View attachment 231217
View attachment 231202
View attachment 231212

these pics are EXTREMELY helpful bro thanks!

 

[WickedFog]

Very nice looking little truggy! Machined braces and shock tower? No way! That's really nice stuff!

 

[RustyUs]

Shocks

I haven't heard anything bad about Hobao's shocks. I'm glad to see 3.5mm shafts though. I didn't take apart the shocks, because I didn't want to look at the innards and be reminded what I have to look forward to during maintenance .

I went through the shocks to make sure they were topped off, and length of shocks were equal in the pairs.

Dr. Emel time for shock spring adjustment collars... putting a mark on them.

Droop set to maximum...

 

[RustyUs]

ESC

Welp, I am not liking what I had originally envisioned. The EZRun WP-SC8 is a smiggin' too big and the capacitor pack... yeah, I'm going with a new Quicrun WP 10BL120 G3. I'll save my old battle tested ESC for a backup/rainy day project.

If things work out later in the testing phase, this battery tray hack job is what I want to do...

Because I want to be able to test with a shorty and full size 2S stick packs, some high-density foam padding, and ESC being placed behind the battery tray will have to do for now...

 

[RustyUs]

Servo

I have a few Team Associated DS1015 servos laying around that were in many RCs over the years and since sold off. They were (still are) my go-to servo. I still run them in my EB48; ET410, and T4.2 platforms. I started buying them when they were being discontinued... and deeply discounted .

The stock servo horn is plastic and probably would work... for a while. Why chance it?
Pulled this clamping horn out of my stash. I never thought I'd get a chance to use it.

 

[9x19]

That is a horn type I've not seen before.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Its a nice looking truck! Every time I see these I'm a bit more impressed!

 

[RustyUs]

Its a nice looking truck! Every time I see these I'm a bit more impressed!

I wanted the original OFNA/Hybao Hyper TT for a long time. I passed on it though after some have mentioned the steering not being quite enough. Hopefully, the TT 2.0's updated steering will fix things. I sure hope this mini truggy is worth the wait.

 

[RustyUs]

Wire Routing

I could have gone up and over the drive shaft using the center chassis brace with built in wire support plastic piece, but I wanted to keep things clean looking/out of the way as much as possible. Added some wire clips to the side of the battery tray.

Receiver box won't allow me to stand up the "antenna-less" receiver . Will definitely make sure to do a range test.

E6000 and zip ties... always have them on hand. E6000ed the ESC to foam pad in earlier post.

 

[RustyUs]

Wheels

Hobao only makes white and yellow wheels for their 1/10 scale mini truggy. I don't know of any other wheel brand with backspacing close to Hobao's . Backspacing on the TT 2.0 wheels is 18mm.

With some Rit fabric dye.... Dyeing Wheels

 

[RustyUs]

In The Home Stretch

All that's left to do is glue the tires and paint the body.

 

[RustyUs]

Wheels... Sealing 'Em Up

I seal all my wheel's vent holes. Maybe if I ran in/on a clean environment, I would leave 'em alone. Keeping dirt out of the foams is of the utmost importance in making the foams last... especially open cell foam. I could just use pieces of electrical tape like I used to do, but the tape has come off many of times from pebbles/rocks doing their thing. Masking tape on the inside, and some E6000...

 

[RustyUs]

Body

 

[RustyUs]

Paint

I dislike painting, but in order to have something other than the run of the mill prepaint stuff, you gotta do what you gotta do.