California Help Tuning Engine in San Diego

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josegarcia8578

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Hi,

Can anyone recommend a shop I can help with engine tuning? This is my first engine and I believe I am running too rich. I have read and done research but I still have some questions that can be best taught in person, by someone with experience with Nitro Engines. I'm located in central San Diego.

-Thanks,
Jose
 
i do not live in that area, but kind of had to self teach myself how to tune engines, learned semi quickly luckily so i didnt have time to burn an engine out (much to my wallets well-being.) what is going on that you are having issues with? what are the symptoms you are having and also side note what engine?
 
@D3MON :: I have been teaching myself but I want to have someone with me so That I don't burn my engine haha. I have learned a lot so far. I would like for someone to her my idle, once I adjust it, and see how long it takes to crank the engine. I'm running a KES25SP.

I flooded the engine my first time trying to get it started, then I went ahead and tried to take the carburetor off using a manual. Unfortunately, I unscrewed the LSN and re-tightened it to the wrong level, I was running rich nad the idle was not stable. I tweaked the engine and I got it to idle for longer. But I am still running rich. I cannot hit top speed, I did once, but it was because I ran out of gas. engine never passed 140F. As of yesterday Idle was stable but I have changed the LSN again. I called Kyosho and I reset the needle to factory. I have not try to run the engine with that setting yet.

Both the HSN and Idle screw are still set to factory. I only messed with the LSN.

How hard should it be to start the engine using the pull start with the factory setting? If I cannot start it, should I open LSN a little bit?


How should I check that my LSN is good to go? Should I let it idle for 10 min? Pinch test? Should Accelerate to test if it turns off? Should it be able to accelerate and not turn off, as well as idle? Before I adjust the HSN?

Thanks
 
in most cases (not all, axial comes to mind) you are to start tuning with the HSN only. (this will be noted in the manual.
you had your engine broken in per manual too correct?
for the most part once you get it tuned you should only have to make minimal adjustments if any to your LSN.
Make sure you have the .5 to 1mm gap (about a credit card width) opening with your carb in the no-throttle/idle position. (also this is a good time to confirm that your throttle trim is correct, when throttle is in the neutral position, then when you transfer to brakes, there should be no movement of the carb slide.)
always run a high speed pass between adjustments (learned that the hard way in the beginning)
let the car run for a minute driving it around to warm up the engine to operating temperature. once it warms up slowly start tightening the HSN down in 1/8th to 1/12 increments driving a high speed pass or two in between adjustments to clear up the crankcase and unspent fuels.
at this super rich condition you will hear it sound raspy almost, and wont give you a high pitch wine on wot passes. as you get it closer it will start getting less raspy sounding and wine more. and have better and better power. a temp gun is a good backup check to make sure you are getting closer to tune.always err on the side of rich.
once you get the HSN pretty close is when you want to start with the LSN (the one you accidentally pulled.) again 1/12 to 1/8 increments (i find it easier for me visually to go 1/8th increments.)
LSN: start with a punch test, if it bogs down then picks up you are to rich, adjust it leaner, if it tries cutting out its too lean. once you start having good acceleration on punching the throttle, thats when you start doing the pinch test.
another symptom and way to gauge the low speed needle is if you have a hanging idle for a few seconds then it drops down it is too rich, adjust 1/8th turn then run a high speed pass to clear out
this is caused by the HSN taking over until the idle adjustment can take over.
the LSN adjustments will alter HSN so once the LSN is dialed in finalize the HSN one more time.

others can probably elaborate more i tried being detailed but I'm sure I'm missing something.
 
@D3MON :

Thanks for the info! I ran through 5 tanks per the manual, with a rich setting on the LSN. the engine nerver got over 70C. I have been playing with the LSN since then. I checked the idle gapand it is good! Didn't touch that!

Here is my dilemma: I understand that the HSN should be adjusted first, then the LSN. But in my case I messed up the LSN really bad. I want to fist get the LSN to start the engine properly. As of yesterday whenever I punched the throttle it would turn off. It would Idle but it did not have power. I have been having a hard time starting the engine since the begging. I believe it was running too rich, making it hard to turn the engine on. I takes me about 5 min of pulling to start it. Would it be fine if I adjust the LSN, to be able to start the engine easily, and have starting acceleration and good idle before adjusting the HSN?
 
@D3MON :

Thanks for the info! I ran through 5 tanks per the manual, with a rich setting on the LSN. the engine nerver got over 70C. I have been playing with the LSN since then. I checked the idle gapand it is good! Didn't touch that!

Here is my dilemma: I understand that the HSN should be adjusted first, then the LSN. But in my case I messed up the LSN really bad. I want to fist get the LSN to start the engine properly. As of yesterday whenever I punched the throttle it would turn off. It would Idle but it did not have power. I have been having a hard time starting the engine since the begging. I believe it was running too rich, making it hard to turn the engine on. I takes me about 5 min of pulling to start it. Would it be fine if I adjust the LSN, to be able to start the engine easily, and have starting acceleration and good idle before adjusting the HSN?
with factory settings in my experience none of them really liked punching the throttle, had to ease/coax it into it. leaning the HSN will also make it more able to punch the throttle. i would maybe (last resort) try a max of a 1/4 turn of the LSN to get it going at first. most of the engines I've ran my final setting was approximately 1/4 to 1 1/2 turn in from factory give or take. so it doesn't take a lot. the other part is that the HSN adjustments will also change your LSN as well. given how rich it was running it may also need a new glow plug, once they get fuel coated they start acting finicky, could be part of why it is so hard to start.
 
@D3MON :

I read that HSN only affected 3/4 to 1 throttle and that 3/4 was all due to LSN. You're saying that HSN will also affect the beginning throttle?

1/4 turn out out of factory, or turn in?

And I agree with you about the glow plug. I have not tested the new LSN setting today because I need to replace the plug. Wlil go to the shop after today!

Sorry or all of my questions. I appreciate you taking your time to answer them.
 
@D3MON :

I read that HSN only affected 3/4 to 1 throttle and that 3/4 was all due to LSN. You're saying that HSN will also affect the beginning throttle?

1/4 turn out out of factory, or turn in?

And I agree with you about the glow plug. I have not tested the new LSN setting today because I need to replace the plug. Wlil go to the shop after today!

Sorry or all of my questions. I appreciate you taking your time to answer them.
1/4 turn in, most of the time if factory settings are to lean there is another issue and that is correct about what part they affect but with all the excess fuel in the crank there is enough to affect the lsn as well, in factory setting rich of condition.
Hope the plug makes it easier! It should lol.
And I am very happy to help! Love nitro and having more people into is better!
I do not mean to sound short in my replies if ever I do btw lol think faster than I type and try not to forget things between so I don't as much pay attention to that lol.
 
@D3MON:

Doesn't making the LSN lean make it harder to turn on the engine? Less nitro? Or does it make it esier? Or are you saying to adjust about 1/4 turn after I can turn the engine on and warm it up using the factory setting?

Once I have the new OS plug I will try out the factory setting for the LSN.If if idles and runs smoothly I'll move on to adjusting the HSN, with small changers, and running laps before I change again.
 
@D3MON:

Doesn't making the LSN lean make it harder to turn on the engine? Less nitro? Or does it make it esier? Or are you saying to adjust about 1/4 turn after I can turn the engine on and warm it up using the factory setting?

Once I have the new OS plug I will try out the factory setting for the LSN.If if idles and runs smoothly I'll move on to adjusting the HSN, with small changers, and running laps before I change again.
Depends on what is causing the engine to be hard to start if it's too rich it will flood out in most cases in my experience the lsn from factory is right before that starts happening.also when adjusting lsn open the throttle ever so slightly so it is not jamming the needle against the slide.
 
Lots of good info here. You really need to learn how to do this yourself. You can't expect to take it to a shop every time there's a problem. Besides, most engines usually need a daily "tweak" just to compensate for temp and humidity.

Read through these posts and print out the PDF file to keep it with you outside. Let us know how it's going and we'll help you out along the way.

https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/
 
@D3MON :

What are the signs of a flooding engine vs a lean engine?
 
When you break the pull rope!...LOL
That's true. Also, it's blubbery and raw oil blows out the exhaust. When it's too lean you can start it and it will rev to WOT without even warming up but will overheat quickly and quit on you. Good way to do major damage.
 
Lots of good info here. You really need to learn how to do this yourself. You can't expect to take it to a shop every time there's a problem. Besides, most engines usually need a daily "tweak" just to compensate for temp and humidity.

Read through these posts and print out the PDF file to keep it with you outside. Let us know how it's going and we'll help you out along the way.

https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/
I have that flow chart printed and laminated in my nitro box lol
Having an experienced eye and ear is a lot easier to learn these so having one to teach is awesome but in my experience rarely accessible lol.

And as far as being too rich it will be almost impossible to pull over and it will just kind of gargle out instead of keeping on firing and will soak the plug.
 
Lots of good info here. You really need to learn how to do this yourself. You can't expect to take it to a shop every time there's a problem. Besides, most engines usually need a daily "tweak" just to compensate for temp and humidity.

Read through these posts and print out the PDF file to keep it with you outside. Let us know how it's going and we'll help you out along the way.

https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/

I understand, I was just scarred of blowing the engine!


I was following that but my LSN was not at factory it was rich. I thought that setting was factory but I was using an old manual and I used hat incorrect setting. I will restart the process. I'm assuming I can start the flow chart with factory settings?

How do I know the idle RPMs are good?
 
I understand, I was just scarred of blowing the engine!


I was following that but my LSN was not at factory it was rich. I thought that setting was factory but I was using an old manual and I used hat incorrect setting. I will restart the process. I'm assuming I can start the flow chart with factory settings?

How do I know the idle RPMs are good?


factory settings are only for engine break-in an is filthy rich ,if you continue to run those settings ,it will
only cause issues like fouling plugs an idling ,an making a mess all over your ride!

Its best if you lean your HSN first a little an get the engine warmed up first ,an adjust the LSN
until your engine starts to get more snappier with the throttle response as you stab the throttle!
 
factory settings are only for engine break-in an is filthy rich ,if you continue to run those settings ,it will
only cause issues like fouling plugs an idling ,an making a mess all over your ride!

Its best if you lean your HSN first a little an get the engine warmed up first ,an adjust the LSN
until your engine starts to get more snappier with the throttle response as you stab the throttle!

Makes sense, I already burned one plug and my car is dirty from extra gas coming from the exhaust.

If I can't get it to start, should I open the LSN slightly?

Once it idles I will run it and and lean out the HSN. Now that I think about it, if you have a rich LSN you can lean out your HSN so that throttle does bogg the engine.

Thanks everyone!
 
Makes sense, I already burned one plug and my car is dirty from extra gas coming from the exhaust.

If I can't get it to start, should I open the LSN slightly?

Once it idles I will run it and and lean out the HSN. Now that I think about it, if you have a rich LSN you can lean out your HSN so that throttle does bogg the engine.

Thanks everyone!

The best way is to start leaning your Hsn first as you run the truck until engine starts to get a peakier sound ,but
you still see a little bit of smoke trail!

Once you are satisfied with that ,an your engine running & warmed up ,then you adjust your Lsn as you run the
truck up an down the road or where ever you run!

You adjust the Lsn in order of the response of stabbing the throttle ,if it bogs down ,then it needs to be adjusted ,
it can go either way I think ,you would have to determine which way ,just make small 1/4 or 1/2 turns ,you
should be able to tell when it starts to run better!

You should not adjust both needles at the same time ,you should start with the Hsn first!
 
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