California Help Tuning Engine in San Diego

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ONE NEEDLE AT A TIME!!! If you try to make it perfect in a few minutes by twisting and untwisting both needles, you won't know where you started or where you left off. The HSN is for the WOT runs and the LSN is for the idle and the fast shot off the line. Just remember, leaning the LSN will also raise the idle so you'll need to be adjusting that till you find the sweet spot on the LSN. Once that's good, you'll rarely have to touch it again unless you change nitro content in the fuel. The HSN gets occasional tweaks for temp and humidity.
Only make your adjustments when the engine is warmed up and run a short lap before adjusting it again. That gives it a chance to "Clear its throat" and run according to the new setting.
 
Thanks all. I will adjust HSN first before adjusting the LSN. I have an issue though...I returned the LSN to factory and I cannot start it. I even changed the glow plug to a new one and no go. Should I open the LSN until I can start it?
 
That's why you don't mess randomly with both needles. Do what you have to do to the LSN till it starts. If you can't start it, you can't tune it.
 
@Rolex I didnt touch the idle nor the HSN. I only tried to bring back the LSN to factory. Thoughts?
 
Here is the bett
@Rolex I didnt touch the idle nor the HSN. I only tried to bring back the LSN to factory. Thoughts?


Sense it is pretty close to the size of my 28 ,try turning the Lsn all the way in ,an then turn it back out
at 6 turns out!
Make sure that you open the carb all the way when you turn it all the in though!
 
@cbaker65The LSN for the KE25SP does not bottom out, I don't have a reference where to start from.

Why open the carb? So that the needle does not bend?
 
flush with the housing is typically the factory settings, if yours is not bottoming out (tightening/snugging up) that leads me to think something is wrong, did kyosho give you a turn count for how far back the needles were to be? this should be turns out (loosened) from a slightly snug needle.
and yes you open the throttle so the needle doesn't bind up against the sleeve that the needle sits in and damages either the needle or sleeve. just read through the Mad Krusher, engine part of manual, have to say not all that impressed, but i guess it works for them. i like associated manuals lol, i mean, they even give driving and cornering advice! but the kyosho didnt really touch on factory settings, or what to look for with the engine characteristics. did your engine come with a manual?
 
I have the new model of the Mad Crusher and the manual does not give a turn count for the LSN. The LSN does not bottom of by design. The LSN is actually on the throttle arm, and not across from it.

I got off the phone with them and I was told to do the following:

"It is 4 1/4 out from closed. So hold the slide closed then turn the needle all the way in until you feel the slide wants to move, then back it out 4 1/4."
 
I have the new model of the Mad Crusher and the manual does not give a turn count for the LSN. The LSN does not bottom of by design. The LSN is actually on the throttle arm, and not across from it.

I got off the phone with them and I was told to do the following:

"It is 4 1/4 out from closed. So hold the slide closed then turn the needle all the way in until you feel the slide wants to move, then back it out 4 1/4."

I was only giving you a reference & an idea on where to set it at to start with based on what I ran my AE pro 28
engine on ,an it ran good at with the Lsn 5 1/2 out ,Hsn 2 3/4 out ,an not factory set!

You also have to make sure that the idle gap is opened correctly enough to were it would start
an maintain engine to run!
 
I have the new model of the Mad Crusher and the manual does not give a turn count for the LSN. The LSN does not bottom of by design. The LSN is actually on the throttle arm, and not across from it.

I got off the phone with them and I was told to do the following:

"It is 4 1/4 out from closed. So hold the slide closed then turn the needle all the way in until you feel the slide wants to move, then back it out 4 1/4."
ok so that point when the slide wants to move is the bottomed out position. the needle still seats against the throat of the carb, not the slide so as you are tuning it have the throttle opened slightly so the needle is not pushing against the mating surface.
 
Update: I followed Derrek's advice (Kyosho America) and I turned out the LSN 1 turn from flush. The engine now turned on with 1 or 2 pulls. HSN is still trich and if I accelerate too fast it Boggs. Will adjust that later.

Right now engine dies after a 3 second pinch test, pinching thr line as close to the carburator nipple as possible.

When I run at 1/2 throttle and stop engine does not shut off, however, I believe arPM gets higher and if I hit the throttle it returns to normal. Should I leave as is and move to HSN adjustment?


It idles idles for at least three minutes, that's the longest I tested it. Temps are at 70C.
 
Update: I followed Derrek's advice (Kyosho America) and I turned out the LSN 1 turn from flush. The engine now turned on with 1 or 2 pulls. HSN is still trich and if I accelerate too fast it Boggs. Will adjust that later.

Right now engine dies after a 3 second pinch test, pinching thr line as close to the carburator nipple as possible.

When I run at 1/2 throttle and stop engine does not shut off, however, I believe arPM gets higher and if I hit the throttle it returns to normal. Should I leave as is and move to HSN adjustment?


It idles idles for at least three minutes, that's the longest I tested it. Temps are at 70C.
Good! definitely follow his advice as far as tuning as they will know the engine better than anyone. i would start on the HSN be aware as you will most probably need to richen the LSN as you lean the HSN. keep with pinch testing as you get your tune closer. the needles are separate and change different part of the power band, but they work together to achieve that.
even to start personally i would back it (LSN) off a bit more (1/4 turn or so) just to keep it rich while the HSN is getting adjusted, then final lean the LSN once the HSN is done.
very glad you were able to get it running and being able to get it started easy now!
with my axial, the manual suggested to only lean the LSN to get it somewhere in the ball park of being correct then go to the high speed, then final on the LSN. then go to the MSN, but i just sealed the MSN and wont touch it unless by accidentally thinking it was the LSN... i dont want to talk about that tho.
 
@D3MON , @cbaker65 , @Rolex : Thanks everyone. I broke in my first engine with a rich needle setting. I now have an idle:


Do you guys hear the slight vibration noise? It started happening yesterday.

The throttle has good response with this LSN. I can go and and speed up and stop completely and it does not shut off. The engine loads up after 10 seonds and revs up slightly. Next is to lean out the HSN to get the last punch at the higher RPMs.
 
I would go through and just double check the screws are tight, I think those are chain drive right? Could be chain vibrating because the engine is leaner and higher rpms.
Sounds good though! Gonna be a very nice basher!!!
 
It sounded good. People who think they can start and go without a warmup are running too lean. Now you need to start leaning the HSN just a little at a time and run it for 10 seconds before adjusting it again. When you finally hit that sweet spot of a good launch and a ripping WOT, the smile on your face will cause cramps in your cheeks. We'll wait for it.
 
@D3MON @Rolex: I had my tune and I lost it. Now I have a couple of questions:

1. Yesterday I went out and I couldn't start the engine. After some attempts my reaction was to start playing with my LSN. I wasn't able to start it so I then started to play with the HSN. After it, I lost the tune. Should I have tried to start it more with the settings I had? Use a little throttle?

2. I am now using the tuning chart provided by @Rolex to get my tune back. I have return the needles to factory setting. It wont cold start idle how it used to, and it wont start the same way. Which brings me to the question: how should I start the engine? Use some throttle? How should I warm up my engine during a 70F day? When I had my I would start it with 3-4 pulls, kept the glow igniter on for 10 sec, then I would let it idle for a min until RPM increased slightly. I was able to hear it.

3. If my engine wont turn on once I have my tune back. What should I do? I feel I should not mess with the LSN.
 
Here is how the engines idle with a cold start yesterday:

 
@D3MON @Rolex: I had my tune and I lost it. Now I have a couple of questions:

1. Yesterday I went out and I couldn't start the engine. After some attempts my reaction was to start playing with my LSN. I wasn't able to start it so I then started to play with the HSN. After it, I lost the tune. Should I have tried to start it more with the settings I had? Use a little throttle?

2. I am now using the tuning chart provided by @Rolex to get my tune back. I have return the needles to factory setting. It wont cold start idle how it used to, and it wont start the same way. Which brings me to the question: how should I start the engine? Use some throttle? How should I warm up my engine during a 70F day? When I had my I would start it with 3-4 pulls, kept the glow igniter on for 10 sec, then I would let it idle for a min until RPM increased slightly. I was able to hear it.

3. If my engine wont turn on once I have my tune back. What should I do? I feel I should not mess with the LSN.

You didn't write down on paper what you had your settings at?

When I start my engines ,I open an close my throttle!
 
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