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grrr why me!!
- Thread starter KbigO69
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ThunderTiger
Hardcore RCTalk User
ahhhhh. the "Black Hole" theory.................. Welcome to the TRUE world of R/C'ing.
BTW, The pics helped, i just took a look. i'll pm you l8r about it.
BTW, The pics helped, i just took a look. i'll pm you l8r about it.
You don't have a "tranny" at all. You have a solid center axle with a spur/slipper assembly on it. The only OWB will be in the engine for the starter on your truck.
ThunderTiger
Hardcore RCTalk User
That IS a tranny. Any gearing between the powersource and the driveline is a "Transmission".
If it didnt have a tranny, it wouldnt move, the engine would just sit there spinning up when the throttle is opened.
Why is it a transmission then? Well, the spur/slipper assembly TRANSMITS power from the engine to the drivetrain (in this case, the centre driveshafts) and thru the diffs which in turn rotates the wheels.
It don't matter wether its a single gear or multiple gears, its still a transmission.
It's a little :OT: but there ya go.
Not trying to sound big headed, its just part of what i learnt over the years.
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KbigO69
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Thread starter
- #25
hey i just thought of something. could it possibly be either my front or back differentials? cuz when i hold it off the ground there is no weight on the wheels there for giving no resistance and it would accerate good but when i set it on the ground giving it resistance it wouldnt do anything. i mean cuz I've practically done everything possible for the clutch/spur gear assembly plus the main clutch everything is new in this area sooo hmmm just a idea. I'm either just talking a bunch of dumb crap right now or actually have sumthing i have no clue haha lol
oh and if this is a possible reason is there anyway i can test the difs. to see if they are "out" or whatever they would be?
oh and if this is a possible reason is there anyway i can test the difs. to see if they are "out" or whatever they would be?
ThunderTiger
Hardcore RCTalk User
Try holding it in the air and rotate one wheel at a time, if it spins without turning the opposite wheel backwards the diff is shot or you have a stripped pinion or main gear.
For example, rotating the front left wheel forwards, should rotate the front right wheel backwards. Same with the rear end.
An even easier way to test if a diff is good or not, is to liftr each end by the wheels leaving the other wheels on the ground. When lifted such, try rotating both wheels you are holding THE SAME WAY. If the thing wants to move, the diff is good. If it doesn't, its in need of a check. do the same for the other end afterwards just to be on the safe side. All this assumes of course, that the centre main gear is on a solid shaft.
Come to think of it, why did i not think about checking the diffs ????? i do it b4 and after every run i make with my buggy !!!
:duh: THATS a homer simpson if ever i knew one
For example, rotating the front left wheel forwards, should rotate the front right wheel backwards. Same with the rear end.
An even easier way to test if a diff is good or not, is to liftr each end by the wheels leaving the other wheels on the ground. When lifted such, try rotating both wheels you are holding THE SAME WAY. If the thing wants to move, the diff is good. If it doesn't, its in need of a check. do the same for the other end afterwards just to be on the safe side. All this assumes of course, that the centre main gear is on a solid shaft.
Come to think of it, why did i not think about checking the diffs ????? i do it b4 and after every run i make with my buggy !!!
:duh: THATS a homer simpson if ever i knew one
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KbigO69
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Thread starter
- #28
darn well i thought it was. i got the difs apart and didnt notice no major wear. i have pics if ya want to check out just to make sure. but still the front wheels dont turn oppos ways but the back do
http://s669.photobucket.com/albums/vv58/KbigO69/?action=view¤t=DSCF0163.jpg
http://s669.photobucket.com/albums/vv58/KbigO69/?action=view¤t=DSCF0163.jpg
That sucks. I was being optimistic and hoping for something else. Oh well. Just gives you a chance to upgrade.
Get a new diff off ebay for $25-30 that's complete, then get the losi HD upgrade for it. Way better design, especially for a MT.
It's hard to believe, but the diffs in my aftershock are the originals. 5 gallons with stock engine, 1 gallon with XTM 24.7, 1/2 gallon with OS21RG and 4+ gallons with an LRP28S3. More than 10 gallons.
About 3 gallons ago (last winter) I pulled them out for the first time to give them a once over. I then figured I'd install the HD cups and some 50K oil. Still smooth as silk. The ring gear has a bit of a helical look to it (or did), but otherwise is fine. I replaced the cups because they were a bit leaky and notches were wore into where the cross-pins ride. I figure the HD inserts should help with that issue.
I have 2 more complete diffs in my pitbox, brand new, HD and oil and ready to go when these die on me.
Get a new diff off ebay for $25-30 that's complete, then get the losi HD upgrade for it. Way better design, especially for a MT.
It's hard to believe, but the diffs in my aftershock are the originals. 5 gallons with stock engine, 1 gallon with XTM 24.7, 1/2 gallon with OS21RG and 4+ gallons with an LRP28S3. More than 10 gallons.
About 3 gallons ago (last winter) I pulled them out for the first time to give them a once over. I then figured I'd install the HD cups and some 50K oil. Still smooth as silk. The ring gear has a bit of a helical look to it (or did), but otherwise is fine. I replaced the cups because they were a bit leaky and notches were wore into where the cross-pins ride. I figure the HD inserts should help with that issue.
I have 2 more complete diffs in my pitbox, brand new, HD and oil and ready to go when these die on me.
KbigO69
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Thread starter
- #30
ok so i got good news and bad news. i while taking apart both the front and back dif. i figured out that both front drive shafts were bent so i changed them out. put everything back together went out and run it. still slipping but for some reason my temp isnt raising to dangerous temps no more..when i was running it i stop and held it and hit the throttle. just me barely holding it, it wouldnt move but the clutch bell and spur gear would just spin like crazy. the tension nut didnt back off either.
ThunderTiger
Hardcore RCTalk User
Throw in a new set of clutch shoes, may weel be that they are gone.
Everything else has been checked (Slipper unit & Diffs), it's the last thing needing to be checked, bar the wheel hexes / pins.
Ideally checking the clutch should have been first on the list, but doing the "Major" checks ensured the diffs were all ok and i was still having a baaaad homer day DOH!!!
Everything else has been checked (Slipper unit & Diffs), it's the last thing needing to be checked, bar the wheel hexes / pins.
Ideally checking the clutch should have been first on the list, but doing the "Major" checks ensured the diffs were all ok and i was still having a baaaad homer day DOH!!!
KbigO69
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Thread starter
- #32
i dont think mine has clutch shoes. all it has is the main clutch and the slipper clutch. and if your talking about the main clutch(two pieces of rubber with a spring wrapped around it) then i have already changed that too. so far everything i changed on this is two drive shafts, clutch disk, main clutch, clutch bell, and spur gear
hey is there suppose to be free play with the clutchbell/spur gear assembly? like should i be able to turn the cltuch bell and spur gear almost a full turn before the wheels start trying to turn?
hey is there suppose to be free play with the clutchbell/spur gear assembly? like should i be able to turn the cltuch bell and spur gear almost a full turn before the wheels start trying to turn?
ThunderTiger
Hardcore RCTalk User
They are your clutch shoes.
That is the drive ratio for you, it works on a "Ratio" of how many teeth are on the main gear and clutch bell. To get the ratio, take the number of teeth on the main gear and divide by the tooth count of the clutch bell.
If your worried about "Meshing" of the c/b and main gear, take a slip of notebook paper, place between the spur gear and clutch bell, seat the spur and c/b together, tighten down engine mounts, remove paper and you have perfect meshing.
It depends on the gear ratio.
It sounds like you have made all the major checks, only thing i casn think now, is to check the wheel hexes / pins on the axles and try readjusting the slipper again !!!
DAMN nitro is a pain, but i do SOOOO love it !!
: lolKbigO69
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Thread starter
- #34
already check the mesh its fine but could the gear ratio mess anything up? and on the wheel hexes/ pins what out of those would make it do this. i have replaced all the hexes but i am missing one pin. but thats only one. oh and i have also already changed the shoes
ThunderTiger
Hardcore RCTalk User
if your missing a pin to hold the hex in place, that could do it, as it would act like a slipping clutch since the axle would spin up
gear ratios are a wierd thing to get into. it's really trial and error until you find that "balance". Imo, i would start with a 15 or 16t c/b and go from there.
if your missing a pin, make one out of an old allen (hex) key/driver or an old drill bit. It'll work fine till u get a replacement pin. i've had an Allen key pin on my Eb4 for 3 years, not had a problem since fitting it. have also replaced two other standard pins in the mean time.
gear ratios are a wierd thing to get into. it's really trial and error until you find that "balance". Imo, i would start with a 15 or 16t c/b and go from there.
if your missing a pin, make one out of an old allen (hex) key/driver or an old drill bit. It'll work fine till u get a replacement pin. i've had an Allen key pin on my Eb4 for 3 years, not had a problem since fitting it. have also replaced two other standard pins in the mean time.
ThunderTiger
Hardcore RCTalk User
Yep, it could, because the power will always find the path of least resistance.
i.E one missing axle pin = one spinning axle = all power ls sent through that spinning axle = no movement when engine spools up the drivetrain.
It can also wear the hex adapter aswell.
i.E one missing axle pin = one spinning axle = all power ls sent through that spinning axle = no movement when engine spools up the drivetrain.
It can also wear the hex adapter aswell.
Well, the easiest way to tell where your power loss is is to watch all your axles (center and otherwise) while rev'ing the engine a bit while it's on the ground.
If both center axles are spinning, then it's not your slipper, spur, cb, shoes. If both outer axles are spinning on the front and rear, it's not a diff. That only leaves hex's and hex pins.
Since your rig is a solid center axle unit, it's not likely it's a wheel hex or pin as you would get wheel spin on at least the front or rear. Unless you broke both pins or spun both hex's on the same side.
If it was a front vs rear having power, then it would make more sense to be an axle pin/hex or diff or even a center diff cup grub screw being loose. But to loose power on both ends of the truck, you would have to leave two diff cups loose or blow out both front/rear diffs or blow a hex/pin on the same side on both ends of the truck.
Anyway, start it up, hold it still and hit the gas a bit to see what spins and what doesn't. That will definitely help narrow the field for you and for us to help.
If both center axles are spinning, then it's not your slipper, spur, cb, shoes. If both outer axles are spinning on the front and rear, it's not a diff. That only leaves hex's and hex pins.
Since your rig is a solid center axle unit, it's not likely it's a wheel hex or pin as you would get wheel spin on at least the front or rear. Unless you broke both pins or spun both hex's on the same side.
If it was a front vs rear having power, then it would make more sense to be an axle pin/hex or diff or even a center diff cup grub screw being loose. But to loose power on both ends of the truck, you would have to leave two diff cups loose or blow out both front/rear diffs or blow a hex/pin on the same side on both ends of the truck.
Anyway, start it up, hold it still and hit the gas a bit to see what spins and what doesn't. That will definitely help narrow the field for you and for us to help.
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