Glow plug problems

[Buey36]

Hi I am new to this forum an to nitro cars
I am having a problem with my car blowing glow plugs my car is a gs storm Evo 25 any tips on what this could be an how to fix it would be very grateful

Thanks Buey36

 

[saddlehorse]

What does your plug look like when you remove it?
is it oil , coil bent, shiny or what?

 

[Buey36]

All the coil is bent an split so it do t work

 

[saddlehorse]

If it is bent you have too much compression =running lean.

 

[Buey36]

Right ok cool so how do I rectify this is it with the low end or the hi end needle or both?
I thought it was running to rich cos there is a lot of fule coming out the exhaust?

 

[saddlehorse]

Did you break engine in before playing with it?
Some fuel is normal from exhaust.

Read the tune and flow chart, it will explain it all to you

 

[Extreme RC Mods]

How much fuel has been run through the engine?

 

[Buey36]

Yer i did break the engine in!

I have put about 2 liters through it up to now an this problem has now occurred
I am going to set the needles back to stock an see how I go from there

 

[REVO-5309]

always richen the needles before you lean them. its safer. once performance is going bad then start leaning out till it gets good again. once it hits the limit again go back 1/8-1/4 turn and your in the safe zone. also keep an eye on temps. you may want to do some reading on tuning tho. there is a fair bit to learn about. low and high speed needles are different and cause different type of problems, heat and performance issues.

 

[Childresshunt]

If your plug is pulled and looks like ash and is broken your running to lean a plugs life is gonna depend all on your tuning. the lean could be hsn could be lsn either one being to lean will ruin a plug pretty quick sometimes in 2 or 3 runs Do some reading on tuning there are many very helpful threads on this site. Watch your temps when tuning but dont try to tune to a temp. i know my firestorm i have it can be running lean and loping when i let off wot which indicates the motor is just on the lean side of a good tune and its still spitting some fuel out the pipe but has a good smoke trail and temps look good.

 

[Buey36]

Thanks for the help...I have set it back to stock setting but it done the same thing . But when I have looked at the plugs I have been given at the shop they are a N3 but the one I got in the car is a N4 so I am hoping that is what causing the problem

What is the difference between a N3 an a N4?

 

[2revo1maxx]

Stock settings don't mean jack. Richen the high speed needle until the engine seems to lose power then lean it back a little bit.....Make sure you warm it up first.

 

[Buey36]

i have just got my car back from the shop after them trying to find out why it keeps plowing plugs they told me they had fixed it just been out with it an its still the same dont no what to do now any ideas people ????????????????

 

[Extreme RC Mods]

Either the tune is too lean or the bearings and rod are worn out. I would check for play on the internals first if the tune is good. Two liters isn't very much fuel for break-in, if you have been running it hard again I would check the internals and especially the main bearing.

 

[Buey36]

In the shop they said the tune was ok now it was running good... So dose this mean I have to strip the engine down? I have been driving it a bit hard so you think I have done it some damage?

 

[hotrodrob]

You never said what color the plug was,can you post a pic of the plug?

 

[JoeMAXX]

In the shop they said the tune was ok now it was running good... So dose this mean I have to strip the engine down? I have been driving it a bit hard so you think I have done it some damage?

You can run the engine hot a few times without doing any major damage to the piston, sleeve or bearings on it.

You will know when an engine is damaged from either heat or getting dirt into. These are the symptoms I had from running an inexpensive air filter one time and it damaged the sleeve and piston.
The engine would run just fine for about 5 minutes and once it got up to full operating temps it would just cut out and stall. I let it cool and it would do it the same thing after just a few minutes.

If your engine is not cutting out and still running fine I would not worry about tearing the head off to inspect the piston and sleeve.

If the front main bearing goes bad it will spit a lot oil out on the frame. It is normal to see some oil on frame near the clutch but if the bearing is completly shot will also make your engine run lean because it will suck air into the crankshaft area and cause a lean mix.

 

[nikko508]

Unless your running the eng over 600deg i don't think anything will melt, with that said, i do think it wont run very good but once it cools down it should start and run again.

 

[Extreme RC Mods]

You can run the engine hot a few times without doing any major damage to the piston, sleeve or bearings on it.

You will know when an engine is damaged from either heat or getting dirt into. These are the symptoms I had from running an inexpensive air filter one time and it damaged the sleeve and piston. A front main bearing may also cause these symptoms because it will cause an air leak into the engine.

The engine would run just fine for about 5 minutes and once it got up to full operating temps it would just cut out and stall. I let it cool and it would do it the same thing after just a few minutes.

If your engine is not cutting out and still running fine I would not worry about tearing the head off to inspect the piston and sleeve.

If the front main bearing goes bad it will spit a lot oil out on the frame. It is normal to see some oil on frame near the clutch but if the bearing is completly shot will also make your engine run lean because it will suck air into the crankshaft area and cause a lean mix.

What you described there was a worn out engine that has lost all pinch and is suffering blow-by. I'm talking about the lower rod bushing and main internal bearing possibly being worn or on it's way out. When you get play in either it lets the piston go higher due to a longer stroke which in turn raises compression and this will usually squish the plug element. If there is any play in the main bearing and or the rod is loose on the crank pin, they should be replaced or catastrophic failure could happen.

The front engine bearing does not seal the engine from atmospheric pressure, the rubber seal is only there to keep dirt out of the bearing and is a low contact bearing, meaning not air tight. The seal does help keep the oil from leaking out but that is not the main purpose, a leaking front bearing usually mean A) the tune is very rich or B) the fuel has a very high oil content. The air tight seal that seals the crank case is actually just behind the front bearing and just in front of the induction opening. The seal is made from a thin film of oil between the crank and block, not the front bearing.

OP, pull the plug out and spin the engine over TDC and see if it has any mechanical pinch or if it just spins over with no resistance.

 

[JoeMAXX]

What you described there was a worn out engine that has lost all pinch and is suffering blow-by. I'm talking about the lower rod bushing and main internal bearing possibly being worn or on it's way out. When you get play in either it lets the piston go higher due to a longer stroke which in turn raises compression and this will usually squish the plug element. If there is any play in the main bearing and or the rod is loose on the crank pin, they should be replaced or catastrophic failure could happen.

The front engine bearing does not seal the engine from atmospheric pressure, the rubber seal is only there to keep dirt out of the bearing and is a low contact bearing, meaning not air tight. The seal does help keep the oil from leaking out but that is not the main purpose, a leaking front bearing usually mean A) the tune is very rich or B) the fuel has a very high oil content. The air tight seal that seals the crank case is actually just behind the front bearing and just in front of the induction opening. The seal is made from a thin film of oil between the crank and block, not the front bearing.

OP, pull the plug out and spin the engine over TDC and see if it has any mechanical pinch or if it just spins over with no resistance.

Very good extra information to help him out