Gears keep stripping - Traxxas Maxx v2

[mrhuangsta]

Hi all,

I have a Traxxas Maxx v2 and the pinion/spur keeps stripping.

I've gone through almost 10 pinion/spurs at this point. With the v2, the motor mount has a pre-determined pin position hole to set the mesh. I've tried factory setting, looser setting, and tighter setting on the mesh. I've also tried the stock 23T pinion and also a 20T pinion. Went through 2 metal spurs, and about 8 plastic spurs, and 1 pinion, all goners.

The pinion grub screw is tight. The one time it was loose, it did not cause any significant damage to the spur.

No matter if the mesh is loose, factory, or super tight, the amount of plastic taken off the plastic spurs always seem to be the same. Hence this is why I tried setting the mesh looser, factory, and tighter to see if I can draw a correlation between the amount of plastic taken off with the tightness of the mesh.

Here are pictures of the last run on a 20T pinion / 50T spur (stock 23T/50T) on "A" mesh ("A" is the recommended on the manual for 20T/50T, I've also tried looser meshes, without success).

For my last few spurs, it seemed to do fine on flat smooth roads, and tend to chew up when I do a minor landing or hit a bumpy patch.

Any advice? Now going out to bash is no longer fun because I am just expecting something to break lol.

I also did notice that the motor mount screw to the spur cover doesn't really tighten that well, not sure if this is related.

 

[RCBASHERJEDI21]

How about looking for some aftermarket pinion and spur gears

 

[olds97_lss]

Check your motor plate for flatness and replace the bulkhead/spur cover so that it actually tightens. It plays a huge role in keeping the distance between the spur and pinion at a set spot. Abysmal design... but it is what it is.

Instead of buying an expensive aluminum spur cover/pinion cover, I put a M4 4 prong T nut on the back side of my spur cover and that seems to help. Now I can actually tighten the stupid screw.

I had to shorten the threaded part a bit so it didn't stick out the other side and kept me from getting it tight. Seems to lock down nice and tight now, and I use threadlock since it's metal on metal threads.

I was running a 4074 motor in mine on the stock mount, but it didn't fit quite right for some reason and I couldn't use the pin thing. I ended up getting the "big block" motor sled and while installing, I noticed my motor mount plate itself was tweaked, so I got a new one of those too. With the big block plastic pieces, I was able to use the pin again.

The maxx motor mount is a ridiculously weak design. Relying on the stupid plastic spur cover as the only connection between the motor and spur is just awful. You have to use the pin or the motor sled moves because you can't really tighten anything tight enough to keep it from moving without deforming the plastic for the motor mount screws on the chassis or deforming the honeycomb part of the chassis itself... I've done both trying to set mesh without the pin. Using the pin locks the motor to a spot and the bottom motor mount screws being tight (but not cranked down enough to damage stuff) seems to work.

 

[F.R.S. Ninja_007]

Maybe you have the wrong gear ratio

 

[nino]

I like how @olds97_lss gave a detailed, informed answer with a solution... And then there's 2 others.

 

[WickedFog]

I like how @olds97_lss gave a detailed, informed answer with a solution... And then there's 2 others.

Nothing like reviving a year old thread with a useless comment huh?

 

[Greywolf74]

post count FTW!