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gear diff question

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JJcrawler

RCTalk Rookie
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Location
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
I raced my SC10 yesterday, & have a problem wth the rear end hooking up- no matter where I was on the track( hard packed clay), as soon as I touch the throttle, it wants to spin out. The slipper is set to factory suggestions, my question is: could it be I don't have enough grease in the gear diff? Even when I loosened the slipper it did the same thing. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Yes, this could be a factor especially if you are losing traction coming out of the corners. Try filling the gear diff entirely with grease. This will tighten the diff action and prevent one wheel from spinning much faster than the other. You will sacrifice some cornering ability but if the traction isn't there, then who cares? You can also try filling the gear diff with diff fluid. I use 7000 wt fluid in my gear diff and the diff action is very tight. Try 5000wt or 7000wt and experiment with it.

With that said, you may have other rear traction problems. Are you running stock tires? Do you have the battery positioned towards the rear? Are you running the silver springs in the front? - try the golds, it will take some steering away but prevent the back end from sliding out. Anyways, lots of stuff you can do to hook the back end up, check out some of these articles...

http://www.teamsc10.com/post/tuning-guide/how-give-your-sc10-more-rear-traction

http://www.teamsc10.com/post/tuning-guide/road-tire-options-your-sc10
 
I raced my SC10 yesterday, & have a problem wth the rear end hooking up- no matter where I was on the track( hard packed clay), as soon as I touch the throttle, it wants to spin out. The slipper is set to factory suggestions, my question is: could it be I don't have enough grease in the gear diff? Even when I loosened the slipper it did the same thing. Any help would be appreciated.

are you using stock tires?

What ESC and What TX?
 
Get some 1 degree rear hub carriers (the Racer's Edge are my favorite) and add a sway bar to the front end. The front sway bar takes a little custom work to install, but is not overly complex. Gold springs in front with 35-40 wt., green in the rear with 27.5-32.5 wt.

Tires make a huge difference as well; for hard pack clay try the AKA Wishbones or something of that sort- Pro-Line, Panther, and Hot Bodies all have nice tires available for clay.
 
the calibers are hooking up here on the hard packed surfaces , everyone here is running 40wt oil in the rears with green springs with 2 clips, and up front 25-35 weight oil wight gold spring with no clips.. Also on the rear they are running the 1*alloy toe in blocks..
 
try taking out the .30 shims on the camber link. add 3deg. neg cam to rear, and put in the 3 deg anti squat block with no shimming below it. run axles just below level in ride height, about the width of the axle shaft,. run blue springs with 32.5 fluid and #1 piston.
get your self some 1 deg. toe in rear wheel carriers.
 
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