engine questions

[Cupooterluvr]

1. If I prop the car on a box and go WOT for a few seconds after running it for a few minutes, if it gets about 250f on the box will it be the same when it has air going over it?

2. If I switch the direction of the clutch (the peg is in the leading edge of the clutch slice before switching, the trailing edge after) will that make it able to idle faster without engaging?

3. What "household" alternatives to ARO and AFO are there?

4. What's the best way to clean baked-on grime from your engine after a hard run in the dust and dirt, same thing with the rest of the car?

 

[aj200415]

1.No. These engines are "air cooled", thats what the cooling head is for. So the air can rush through it and cool hte engine.

 

[4u2nv]

1. If I prop the car on a box and go WOT for a few seconds after running it for a few minutes, if it gets about 250f on the box will it be the same when it has air going over it?

2. If I switch the direction of the clutch (the peg is in the leading edge of the clutch slice before switching, the trailing edge after) will that make it able to idle faster without engaging?

3. What "household" alternatives to ARO and AFO are there?

4. What's the best way to clean baked-on grime from your engine after a hard run in the dust and dirt, same thing with the rest of the car?

1. No. Like aj said, while running air will cool the engine. Best way to take a temp is take a few laps with the rc then bring it back and take the temps.

2. If I'm reading it right, If you switch the way the clutch shoes are position (Direction wise) they wont engage at all. The depend on sping a certain direction to engage.

3. marvel mystery oil, wd40

4. I used simple green and a toothbrush. Spray the simple green on, let it soak for a couple minutes, then scrub with a toothbrush and add more simple green if needed. Then blow away the grime with a airhose.

 

[olds97_lss]

2. If I'm reading it right, If you switch the way the clutch shoes are position (Direction wise) they wont engage at all. The depend on sping a certain direction to engage.

I hate to disagree with you, but a lot of guys put their shoes in backwards to help with a slipping clutch. Granted, it has a tendency to deform the shoes, but it does typically make them bite into the CB harder and slip less. I did it myself when I was fighting with the t-maxx a few years back. I did notice a difference, but it ruined my shoes in under a gallon.

Going one direction or the other won't alter when they engage, just how they engage. You need stiffer spring(s) to make them not drag at idle. Or you need to tune the engine better so it can idle slower. Or, your using the wrong flywheel/shoe/CB combo that doesn't match up well. Not everything is universal. I found that out with my XTM. A set of HPI shoes has a tendency to drag when using the XTM flywheel with an OFNA bell for some reason.

 

[4u2nv]

I wasn't to sure about that one, or what exactly he meant. If to flip them around as going to opposite direction, I didnt think they would open.. hmm.. Weird.

 

[on_my_can_sp2]

Yes you can rev. the clutch shoes

 

[olds97_lss]

I wasn't to sure about that one, or what exactly he meant. If to flip them around as going to opposite direction, I didnt think they would open.. hmm.. Weird.

Centrifugal force pulls on them regardless which way they are spinning.

 

[bourney2006]

i didnt think you could put them on backwards. My clutchshoes are not flush with each other ( the ends stick out slightly) is this right or should they be flush?

 

[mach1basher]

3. wd-40 cheaper and woks fine.
4. http://www.rcbros.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1759&PN=1 this will help.
1. NO, you'll kill the engine with out air flow.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

Thanks for all the answers. If I drill small holes or shave small bits off the shoes to remove some of the weight will that allow it to idle easier? I've tried using the idle-adjust screw, I found a speed where I can apply the brakes without it stalling, though it still will not stop moving. Next time I run it, I'm going to try slowing the idle, and leaning it out at the same time (I think it might be rich).

Also, how much smoke coming out is enough? I mean, like should it be billowing clouds or a clearly visible stream. At about 1/4 to 3/4 WOT, it's clearly visible, but thins out at WOT. Not so thin that I'm scared of it being too lean, but to where it's a thin stream; almost like a model rocket. If I make it any more rich, the engine slows considerably at full throttle, but does not bog. On a side note, I can smell the distinctive "hot engine" smell, though it's probably normal.

I can't get my transmission to shift, even with a brand-new trans clutch (it's the kind with a small hook that grabs a piece on the gear). I tried tinkering with the spring, but it still won't shift. I can't tell if it's stuck in second or too stiff to shift, but when the engine is off, second gear is not engaged. I'm afraid to screw in the set screw too much for fear of breaking the spring.

 

[olds97_lss]

Just curious, what vehicle is this? You seem to be having a lot of issues with it...

You shouldn't have to lighten the shoes unless your using shoes that aren't made for the CB/Flywheel/Spring combo. If your springs are too light, the shoes will swing out easier. If your using too small of a CB (the actual bell part), then it is very close to engaging with the engine off.

Or, your not that good at tuning yet and your idle is just too high.

As for the smoke, do you have a temp gun? If so, what are your temps at the glow plug after a decent run? I use sound, smoke and temps to gauge where my engines are. Knowing just one of them doesn't tell us a whole lot. You could have a ton of smoke, but have an air leak making it run hot.

It's hard to help with the trans without knowing what vehicle it is. I think traxxas has stock 2-speed settings in their manuals, so we could at least start you there if it's a traxxas vehicle. I would venture to guess other makers post the same baseline settings in the manual as well.