Engine problems or needs to be tuned...need advice inside.

[hbidad]

Hey all,

Out of suggestions I purchased a Wasp .28 for my savage 25. I pulled it out of the box and broke it in. The power is a great improvment I must say! I have yet to get my hands dirty into fine tuning this beast, However I had an experience today that made me say "o-poop". Now at this time the needles were at the factory settings and the truck ran great! All of a sudden the motor made a popping noise and died. It sounded like it blew the motor. Atleast that was my fear. At any rate, I closed my eyes as I pulled the pull start 2-3 times and it refired. It ran and idled fine. When I tried to give it gas, it just merly stalled. I tried this about five times as it stalled when It barley moved and inch (very slowly pulling the trigger) before it stalled again.

Take note: I ran this for about 5-10 mins and everything was working fine. This happend all of a sudden. The only way to resolve this was to leave the ignitor on and make a few passes. After this, I was able to remove it and bash around for about 5 mins untill the samething happend. I thought maybe this was a cause of being to rich. I leaned the HSN a half of turn and made a run up and down the road, the same thing happend. I still had smoke from the exhuast. I would say I didn't notice a difference.

Does anyone have any insite on this?

 

[FastEddy]

Your most likely running to rich. Its time to start tuning it.
It also sounds like a classic case of a fouled or weak glow plug caused by running to rich.

 

[Revo Rancher]

Could be a bad plug and also running too rich. Are you running the correct plug for the Wasp .28? (nice mill, BTW)

As I post I see Ed beat me to it. Lookslike you have two votes plug and rich.

 

[hbidad]

Well, I used the one that came with mill. I used that for break in. That is all the life I got out of it, as it died before break in was completed. I went to my LHS and purchased three Dynamite Turbo Plugs #7 meduim. I was under the assumption that I just needed the turbo plugs. Not knowing how hot of a plug I needed I just asked "do you have turbo plugs for the wasp .28". This is what they handed me. After thinking about my run, the mill does not have a hiccup when at wot and slowing down. It seems to be when I go WOT and slow down ...turn around and try to gas it again. I have tried easing on the gas and hammering it. I get the same results.

However, I installed this new plug yesturday. Could it go out that fast? At first thought, I was running to rich because of the factory settings. Mentioned above, I leaned it out a whole half of turn. I did not notice any differences. What would be a good dial to aim for before I "fine tune"? Should I take the 1/8th if a turn from where I am at now?

***EDIT***...it seems that the above Posters are the pros around here. I am sorry for not looking at your names! Contrats Guys...in all my searches you guys stand out!

For the pro's that hang around, I could video tape my runs and surley I can capture the faults. If you guys care to take a look, this may be a clip of a 1000 words as I an not good on explaining.


side note: is there a tire that holds up pretty good with my mill and a 3 speed tranny?!?!

 

[Revo Rancher]

I'll leave teh tunign to you. Sounds like yuo have a pretty good idea of what to do anyhow.

Tires:

What do plan to run on? What is the issue with the stock tires? If you run open packed dirt a lot, use the HPI Bonz or Panther pins.

 

[bustedgears]

stock tires hold up pretty good

mine are as old as the truck and they look brand new

 

[hbidad]

Well, I am mainly a basher with visions of racing. Although, I will always have a basher in my office! I would get a dedicated racer if that is how my dreams steer me in the future.

The problem I see right now is, playing around on the road at highspeeds (drag racing...etc). I figure if I can get used to the R/C at high speeds, it should be easier to get the hang of things in the field. I know these are conditions are not comparable but, like to take the truck to the edge of out of control and regain control and continue. It is a weird procedure...but for me it works.

I would like something to keep the ballooning down but be decent in the hard compact dirt and low cut grass.

 

[FastEddy]

If your planning on racing ill suggest that you learn to get your truck to do what you want at low speeds. 95% of the time you will be at less then 1/2 throttle.

When your dong high speed runs then slow down your engine will load up with fuel and cause it to die out when you punch it again. There is a delicate balance when your running a lot of WOT. To lean and you'll torch your mill. to Rich and you will load up and stall out.

Just play with it and you will get it right. If you don't have a heat gun, get one. It will help find a sweet spot.

 

[hbidad]

Thanks for the reply. I totaly agree with what you are saying. However this is a method that has always worked for me. I have personal track record to start out aggressive to master to the slower technuiqes. It is a proven with my son and I. This goes way back. Lets leave this at this....



You speak of heat gun, are you talking about a true heat gun ( I assume to heat the mill) or a temp gun to check the head for correct temps? I have the second in the mail now! I regret not getting this before I bought the Savage from the get go! However, you live and learn!

 

[SpitFireV12RR]

You speak of heat gun, are you talking about a true heat gun ( I assume to heat the mill) or a temp gun to check the head for correct temps? I have the second in the mail now! I regret not getting this before I bought the Savage from the get go! However, you live and learn!

Hes talking about a temperature checker thingamagig.

 

[Scaryperson27]

There is allways the good ol' water test . Take a glass of water and run your car pretty intense for 5-10 min and stick it on the engine head. If it boils then it is near temp if it boils but moves around and stuff then it is too hot. Also If your car was producing alot of smoke at factory settings then you were probably running it really rich. I would just lift up on the gas cap to get rid of the compression that pushes the nitro into the engine and open up the throttle to clear all the liquid out. It will start up and go into high RPMS for a second just let off the throttle when that happens. Before you try to start the engine, be sure to heat it with a hair dryer and check the glow plug coil to make sure that it is not black or wet.

Peace out
mike

 

[olds97_lss]

Also, since it's cold out, your going to have a mildly tough time finding the sweet spot. If you can keep it running in the winter, your doing good... at least that's the way it's been for me. I can always tune an engine in the summer, but when the temps drop below 40F, it's always a pain.