Electric questions

[GADawgs33]

Hey guys one of my brothers friends just gave me his old traxxas street sport for FREE!! it has a NOVAK Rooster and a old 10 turn motor in it. I was wondering what body would i need and what battieries would you guys reccomend for this Combo. also i was looking at getting another Onroad car and i was wondering if the Associated TC4 4WD Touring RTR was a good one to start with. if not then what would you guys reccomend.

 

[GADawgs33]

come on anybody Driver you dont have anything to say

 

[sl0eg1n]

i got an xray T1FK05 for my first and only electric TC. it's strictly for racing and it's the best car i have in my r/c garage hands down. i only needed to purchase 2 after market hop-ups items for my outdoor setup, the multi-diff and spring steel hubs, and it handles like a dream. i enjoy racing my T1fk05 during organized races more than my serpent 710.

 

[Diver6127]

Who's Driver? The TC4 is a good design. Actually it's just a spruced up TC3 with a few extra bells and whistles that needed fixing on the TC3. Either one is a good choice. If you are just getting into electrics, this car is good. IF you can afford it, sl0eg1n's Xray is the way to go. He as raced it officially only 4 times and is having a ball as well as being a serious contender. If you're bashing around mst of the time and not really going into competition, the TC4 is good because it can easily be used for racing as well. Much like the NTC3.

The kit is not where the spending ends either. Battery packs and electronics is where you get killed. Don't go cheap, you'll thank me later.

 

[pmoyer]

that car is insain

 

[sl0eg1n]

the losi xxx-s is not bad for either. it's a good beginner car. if you shop around the internet you can get one for just over $100. i got diver a xxx-s for x-mas with all the bells and whistles plus enough spare parts to build a second car for just $175. electronics and batteries is a different story.

 

[GADawgs33]

no I'm not a beginner i think I'm going to get a TC4 Kit

 

[sl0eg1n]

if you are going go that route, wait for the factory team version. it goes for $340 from tower. for that price i'd rather get the xray but it's your money, and you are entitled to make your choice. just to let you know, you can see the differences between belt and shaft-driven cars in electric TC. shaft-driven is for more aggressive driving. belt driven cars require smooth and finesse driving. before you go make your purchase, do some extensive research. the best place to go is the race track. observe the fast drivers and make notes on how their cars handle. feel free to ask them questions about the cars they are driving. just tell them that you are planning on purchasing an electric TC and would like their honest opinion. most of the time they will answer your questions if you ask them at the correct time, ie. when they aren't stressed out.

i will give you the pro's and cons of my experience with the Xray T1Fk05.
pros:
the chassis is balanced
drivetrain very smooth
it's fast in the infield
gearing is efficient
durability ( it takes a really big hit to break a part)
the car teaches you to become a smooth driver

cons:
parts are expensive and may not be available in your area
the car is very sensitive to chassis geometry
i wish certain parts were included in the kit (motor guard and battery brace)

 

[GADawgs33]

what do you mean by TC? do you mean on road? also price is not an issue for me b/c i already have asome parts for it. The TC4 team factory kit is a shaft driven car right? i think thats what I'm going to get thanks alot sloeg1n what batts. do you reccomend for a lung use time? i would like a stick pack thanks

 

[Diver6127]

TC means touring car

 

[Bouzouki]

Those Xray cars are sick, if you can afford it, go for it.

If you race that is.

 

[Diver6127]

i would like a stick pack thanks

Stick packs are the cheap way to get the car to run but not really the most efficient. i would suggest getting and building your own set of matched 3300 batteries. Get a set and look at the numbers. Get one with high run times and at leat 1.16 AV and low internal resistance ratings.

To keep these packs at optimum level, never dead short them. Your run times will get lower. Some racers swear by it but then again, those are either sponsored racers that have batteries at their disposal or use money to wipe their butts. Discharge them with a discharge bulb set or tray and equalize them on an equalizer tray to about .9 volts/battery. A solid performing charger is the Pulsar Competition. It also has break-in settings for running in your freshly cut motors. It needs a 110 power supply but can also be used in the field off your car battery.

Remember, the key for a good performing electric are well maintained batteries, motors and gearing. Gearing won't mean a thing if you motors are under or overgeared and motors are only as good as the batteries are concerned.

You have several ways of connecting these batteries to your motor. You can either use tamiya plugs, Deans connectors or directly soldering them. I prefer direct soldering. That can be hard in the field unless you have a powerinverter to power your sodlering iron. Deans are a better choice if soldering is out of the question. Tamiya plugs are a last resort and I never use those or recomend them either.

 

[Plaidfish]

DO NOT desicrate a TC4 w/ tamiya plugs...what a waste of plastic....the 2 times I've had to use them I got one run each time and they were almost melting the wires after the run......Diver I hear the TC4 isn't as durable as the TC3 for things like drifting......I'm still on the fence as far as wanting to get into Electric TC racing...I have a TC3 and beat the crap out of it.....now if I go the race route what advantages (improvements) other than the better steering rack does the TC4 have over the TC3?

 

[sl0eg1n]

don't use tamiya plugs because the resistance it hold can't keep up with the amp draw. the result would be a meltdown at the tamiya connector. as far as batteries, i use GP3300's that are matched by surge batteries. my packs are at the 1.179 range. don't use stick packs because you can never equalized them.

 

[Diver6127]

now if I go the race route what advantages (improvements) other than the better steering rack does the TC4 have over the TC3?

I really couldn't tell you and be 100% sure of the differences. I never ran a TC3 or TC4. I have seen them at the track and they do take a beating. I have yet to run my XXX-S outdoors competatively but that's only because I'm having a ball with my serpent710. Sl0eg1n is the opposite, he's having a ball with his Xray.

As far as drifting, I never really got in to that. I'm sure it has it's following but something about it just doesn't click with me.

 

[Plaidfish]

I don't do any of the competitions for it...I mostly set up stuff in the road and try to keep it sliding around stuff...I use the abs plastic wheels so you get no grip.....it helps get better control w/ teh buggy.....I can drift throught the real messy technical stuff better than a lot of guys are driving it.......you should try it w/ a beater 1/10 TC......it's more addicting than I thought....but as far as competitions , nah.......looks stupid to compete at something like that......anyone know the major diffs between the TC3 & 4....other than the steering rack

 

[Diver6127]

I would contact BUDDAH. He has both. I think he can give a more "in depth" annalysis.

 

[Plaidfish]

BUDDAH.....oooohhh BUDDAAAAAHHHHH!!!!!
o you meant PM.......ooops sorry, mah bad

 

[Diver6127]

No, I meant to go rub his belly.

 

[Plaidfish]

OOOOhhh.....so you're saying I might win a race if I use the luck of buddah??????