E-Zilla wire connectors melt

[Greyhound]

Well, I have E-zilla from Hot Bodies for a while (look like it's going to wear Savage brand now). I have Intelletech 4200 batteries. It runs great and for after 4-5 charges on the batteries, the Tamiya style connectors burnt out. I've change them once but after a few charges, it happens again. So, I've changed all plugs to Deanz plugs. No heat/melt problem, but the solder from wires to the plugs came loose so easy.

The temp at motors were 65-68 celcius, at ESC was 62 celcius and the packs were 62-65 celcius. The area I drove was around 38 celcius and a bit humid.

Do you guys know any better plugs that I can use with no hassle?

Thanks!

 

[1500valk]

If deans are soldered correctly, the solder shouldn't let go.

 

[FastEddy]

Deans are the best available.
You should practice on your soldering. Its a learned art. Once you figure it out, Its second nature.

 

[Lessen]

yeah, sounds like you need to get a little bit more flux in there.

Eddy- whoa! avatar change eh? I like the animated version :thumbup:

 

[Greyhound]

I guess I have to go back and do the solder work again. It gets hot on the wire really quick. Thanks all!

 

[HeartBreak]

Another key thing; don't use one of those cold-heat things. Get a GOOD iron, or have a hobby shop solder it for you. The difference is night-and-day.

 

[FastEddy]

If they are getting hot enough to melt solder, the connectors are the least of you worries.

 

[jon2]

What gauge wiring do you use? What is the rating?

I also agree on the soldering quality. If you tin the target surface properly and ue flux , you should get a nice solid connection. No cold solder connections. You want a nice clean shiny surface No need to go mil spec. Just do it well.

snap a pic of the solder job and the wiring and post it here so we can checck it out

 

[Greyhound]

I have no idea they are rating and gauge wire. I just picked them up from hardware store. I'm going to get the whole new set of solder things. What do you guys recommend for gauge and rating? So, I don't have to do the job I've done. Thanks again!

 

[FastEddy]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBJ37&P=7
14 should do just fine or 12 if you feel like giving it some Beef.
Make sure its silicone wire for RCs. I like the Novak Super flex.

 

[Greyhound]

Thanks Eddy!

 

[FastEddy]

I got an E-Zilla yesterday and have had no issues with heat. I ran it full out from start to finnish on a full set of packs. The motors, wires, and batteries were only warm to the touch at any given point.

The upgraded packs you have should be the same voltage but offer a longer run time. From what I found running mine you shouldn't be getting the amount of heat that you are. Resistance causes heat. How many runs do you have on your motors? Its possible that they are in need of replacement. If they are warn out you may get this kind of overheating. Did you by chance change your pinions to a larger size? are you running 7 cell batteries?

The ECS has a built in failsafe for heat protection. Is it kicking in?

 

[HeartBreak]

It could be his gear mesh is too tight, causing a strain on the motor(s). Have you checked your gear mesh, greyhound?

 

[Greyhound]

I ran mine fine, but the tamiya plugs that melt. The shop explained to me that plug in and unplug the tamiya plugs many times will reduce the contact surface (the female got bigger, need to use pliers to close that gaps) the same amount of power running through smaller bridge. That cause the heat and melt the plugs. I've changed all plugs to deanz now and no problem so far. Broke the wheel shaft 4 times already though. Thanks for all the help everyone.

I've checked the gear mesh. I think it's fit fine. I ran e-zilla at 40 celcius heat here. and run like either full power or full brake nothing in between.