diff upgrading..??

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racin_38

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ok heres my question ,
i need a cheap upgrade for my maxx that will last that i can do to my diffs ,i am using stock parts with the OS .18 CVRX ,but i do not have the extra cash flow right now due to a injury
is there anything i can do with the stock diffs for them to last past a quart of fuel other then upgrade to buggy or the UE diffs?
any help or suggestions would be great
thanx rick
 
You shouldn't really have a problem if they are shimmed correctly. Your diff cases may be worn or out of whack possibly.. I ran stock diffs with an OS .15 CVX Hyper for almost a year with no problems at all. I didn't upgrade my diffs till I went to a .21 conversion.. I would say buy some new assembled diffs off Ebay, pull em apart & shim if needed & reinstall. I've seen the .18 run, & it was no more impressive than the original .15 CVX Hyper mill..
My 2 cents..
 
A correct shim job should get em to last quite a while now. You shouldnt need 1/8th scale diffs with that .18... it only has like 1.3hp... I just bought some UE 1/8th scale 8 spyder diffs. They should be here monday... also got some UE cvds and some RPM knuckles with oversized bearings... Now i just need to buy some titanium pillow balls, and the suspension will be set!
 
what for ofna shim kit do ppl talk about buying for the maxx's
and you can only shim the pinion gear right ??
i have 5x8mm shims is this what i use?
sorry for all the questions but i have never really pissed around shimming diffs and such ,just rebuilt them and changed oils to change preloads and stuff but never for performance
thanx
rick
 
racin_38 said:
what for ofna shim kit do ppl talk about buying for the maxx's
and you can only shim the pinion gear right ??

You shim the pinion gear and spider gears.

What is the part number for the Ofna shim kit??? I need a couple for my new 8-spyder diffs...
 
thats what i was wondering the part # for them
and i hate to sound like a jackass but when you say the spiders are you referring to where they go thru the races of the bearings or actaully inside the diff case and hopefully your referrring to the 2 pinion type gears that the axles attach too right?
 
racin_38 said:
thats what i was wondering the part # for them
and i hate to sound like a jackass but when you say the spiders are you referring to where they go thru the races of the bearings or actaully inside the diff case and hopefully your referrring to the 2 pinion type gears that the axles attach too right?

Yeah the spyder gears are the gears inside the diff housing.. they are the two little pinion shaped gears, with the 2 gears in between them.
 
ok,so what i shim is the spider gears correct??
and just the pinion that the the driveshaft hooks too??
not the 2 little pinion gears that the axles hook too
 
Right. Clean out the diff of oil/grease to make shimming easier. Normally, you want to shim when everything is clean and dry. You don't want it shimmed so tight that the gears bind, but you want it tight enough to not have a lot of slop when you turn the drive shafts back and forth.

I good cheap diff case is made by FLM Just make sure that if you spend $30 on a diff, that you properly shim it or it's a waste.
 
Just shim it and it'll be fine. I've also heard of putting JB WELD in the rear diff to make it lock but IDK.....
 
ok,i can do that i will order the ofna shim kit #10410 and another set of gears ,i was mistaken i thought i grenaded the front already but it was the rear that was untouched since i got it so it was due anyways
but my maxx is totally tore down now so i will clean everything redo the shocks and clean and rebuild the diffs and shim as needed
just want to thank all you guys that helped me out ,

and bustedgears i know that jd-weld will lock the diff but i do not want a locked diff
all that does is lock the spider gears inside the diff cup ,does nothing if your pinion isn't shimmed correctly thoe it will still tear the diff up
 
I've done it to a nitro mt. but I'd probably never do it to mine. I'd just buy the correct part. It's not that expensive.

Good luck with the rebuild.
 
ok i am getting the shim kit here shortly and the rebuild kit for the diff ,
exactly how much play should be in the spiders after shimming?
and the pinoin also ,how much play in and out ??
 
as little as possible w/o binding....if you can get it to stay w/ no play and they still spin freely then your good to go......also if you have a good front diff you can lock th efront one and pu the good set from the front in the rear....locking the rear diff sucks but the front one gives the truck WAY more pull power..and you don't loose much on the turn radius......if you can while you're rebuilding diffs get some aluminum cups....they will reduce flex inside and keep the gears from slipping....
 
ok i rebuilt the diff yesterday and the gears inside the diff housing i could not shim they hit the housing itself ,but i did shim the pinion like gears that the axles hook too and it has very little play but not binding ,please tell me i did it right lol
 
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