Desperate! Someone help!!

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4u2nv

Gone - bye bye.
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I just got my Wasp .18 today and started doing the conversion. It is my 1st conversion and I'm still very new to the Nitro Monster truck scene. So Dont laugh or think I'm a tard for these questions..please... :LoL: Keep in mind this is going into a old skool maxx with the pro 15

1st what am I suppose to do for the gear on the crank?? The stock one off my max is connected to the bell, and when I got deeper into that I seen a couple magnets with a spring wrapped around them and the magnets had a rod holding them into place.

2nd The stock pro .15 comes with a rotary carb. The new wasp is a Slide. The wasp has a ball on the top of the slide where its suppose to be connected to the throttle linkage, so how am I suppose to hook up the pro's rotary linkage??

Did I forget to order something additional that was needed to install the motor?? It said everything was needed and that this was specfically for the old skool maxx's ONLY (Which is also stated ont he box it came in) and also it was a "10 minute" install, which makes me feel like a even bigger dumbass..lol

So if someone can please help me out and point me in the right direction I would GREATLY GREATLY appriciate it!!!
 
did it come with instructions or just a box full of parts?
 
I'm not familiar with a slide carb install, or the shaft on your .18

I do know however that those magnets are not magnets. They are clutch shoes. As your engines revs up centrifugal force spreads those "magnets" so they touch the clutch bell. That's what transfers power from your engine to your tranny.

Withjout the spring to hold them together, your clutch bell would move at an idle, and either kill your engin, or not allow your maxx to sit still.. no magnets... "clutch shoes" is what they are. While you are puttin in the .18 get some new ones, they will give you more "punch" off the line
 
What you need is a Pro .15 - 2.5 conversion package. They run I think $35-$40. It comes with all the parts needed to convert to a slide carb engine.
 
Originally posted by GilBeQuick
What you need is a Pro .15 - 2.5 conversion package. They run I think $35-$40. It comes with all the parts needed to convert to a slide carb engine.

dont need that, all u need is a drill. do a search about "Wasp" and i have replied i think twice on how to install the Wasp .18 in a t-maxx. either that or do a search in the t-maxx forum as "Wasp".

if u need more help after the search, send me a PM.

later
 
Here's a shot of what I did:
051804-SMaxx-oriontop.JPG


Keep in mind that I also made a bracket to install a ofna buggy fuel tank. I tried to use the linkage for the 2.5 (that's what mine started as), but it made the carb bind no matter how I positioned it. So, I went this route and it works like a dream. It may be a little more than the 10 second mod you were looking for, but it works really well.

If you want some more detailed pics of what I did, just ask and I'll make some for you.
 
There is a tower with a pivot arm that you need to convert the throttle linkage. Try the LHS. Just look at any new Tmaxx that has the 2.5 installed, and you will see it. You also need the short linkage rod.
 
could always try duct tape and zip ties....
 
personally i think they F-ed up when the made a description for this engine. It should be a drop in for the 2.5 because that is a slide carb. o well it isnt too hard to make the old t-maxx into a slide carb. what u are going to have to do is remove the gas tank and the throttle servo from the truck. make sure that the fuel tank fits in the empty spot where the throttle servo was(i believe it should). Then put a little paint on each leg of the fuel tank and press it down on the chassis, this will give u marks so u know where to drill. then do the same for throttle servo. then u will have to buy the OFNA throttle linkage its only like $4, part number 10724. then i used the old throttle linkage as the brake linkage. here is a pic.

normal_T-maxx%20031.jpg


good luck,
later
 
Last edited:
Maxx Trooper,

You don't get binding in the carb with it at that angle? I did, so I had to move my servo forward and bend the crap out of the rod to get it to push/pull in as straight of a line as possible.

I had mine like yours and it didn't make it through the first tank before it wouldn't open more than 1/4 throttle. If it did happen to open, it would get stuck trying to push it in! That was fun...

Also, maxx t, what pipe/header are you running?

There's another guy asking for suggestions on it.
 
no binding here. havent had a problem with it. i ran 10-12 tanks like this. with no problem.

as far as the header/ pipe combo its the stock header ported by myself and i also opened up the end of the exhaust pipe on the header. it gets bigger by like 2mm all the way around. the pipe is a Paris turbo ripple pipe or somethin like that. it works great, good low end. i just bought another one off eBay but its slightly different, about 1/2 inch shorter and isnt as big around. I'm gona have to look into it to see if there is like 2 different models or if i just got a pipe that looks similiar to the Paris turbo pipe.

later
 

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