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I dd this, it's incredibly useful.Usually pinch the fuel line or block the incoming air. Another trick is to tune the engine with the throttle trim in the center. That way you can raise the trim to raise the idle during starting and warm-up, then return it to center for running. When you bring it in you can lower the trim to zero which will close the throttle, shutting down the engine. Just make sure it's at center for the next startup.
After run oil is what it sounds like, you take out the glow plug and put 2-3 drops inside the cylinder, you then turn the engine over slowly and put the glow plug back in. You do this after you've ran the car, or when you're planning on storing it for a long time. It creates a protecting layer against moisture to stop it rusting the internals.Thanks guys... After oil don't want to sound stupid but when do you use it? Also where do you put it?
Get some air filter oil too. It goes on the sponge of the air filter and traps finer dust.Ah I best buy some then lol
Usually pinch the fuel line or block the incoming air. Another trick is to tune the engine with the throttle trim in the center. That way you can raise the trim to raise the idle during starting and warm-up, then return it to center for running. When you bring it in you can lower the trim to zero which will close the throttle, shutting down the engine. Just make sure it's at center for the next startup.
Interesting point, @olds97_lss . I found myself mentally running that procedure through my brain to double check it. You're right. It's not the car engines it's the airplane engines we did that with. Thanks for correcting me. Damn, that's the second time in over 32,000 posts that I've been wrong. I'm really ashamed of myself.Wouldn't that cause it to stall when you brake?
Interesting point, @olds97_lss . I found myself mentally running that procedure through my brain to double check it. You're right. It's not the car engines it's the airplane engines we did that with. Thanks for correcting me. Damn, that's the second time in over 32,000 posts that I've been wrong. I'm really ashamed of myself.
The trim will set the point for the servo, but the brake will over-ride and take it to the mechanical stop of the idle screw, so it's not something that will work for cars.
Other than that, I added a mechanical flywheel brake to my Bling Thing. Press the red button and a pad hits the flywheel bringing it to a stop without leaning or flooding.
View attachment 17133
I just added a little info in my post above. I got a chuckle out of the abuse, as usual.
It all started with an extreme shelf.....I have shelf queen but nothing that extreme.
Is that dirt I see on the plastic parts!? You're letting it slip....The trim will set the point for the servo, but the brake will over-ride and take it to the mechanical stop of the idle screw, so it's not something that will work for cars.
Other than that, I added a mechanical flywheel brake to my Bling Thing. Press the red button and a pad hits the flywheel bringing it to a stop without leaning or flooding.
View attachment 17133
Here, this showed up on a search...
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/best-way-to-kill-your-nitro.91850/
Even back then I was getting beaten up for not beating up my Savvy.
Anyway, post #19 has a link, but I couldn't tell you if the part is still available.
The other option is go to Killer RC for an electronic kill switch that's first rate.
The pics in the above link have their old one. It's the blue unit on the fuel line just before the carb.
Is that dirt I see on the plastic parts!? You're letting it slip....The trim will set the point for the servo, but the brake will over-ride and take it to the mechanical stop of the idle screw, so it's not something that will work for cars.
Other than that, I added a mechanical flywheel brake to my Bling Thing. Press the red button and a pad hits the flywheel bringing it to a stop without leaning or flooding.
View attachment 17133
Here, this showed up on a search...
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/best-way-to-kill-your-nitro.91850/
Even back then I was getting beaten up for not beating up my Savvy.
Anyway, post #19 has a link, but I couldn't tell you if the part is still available.
The other option is go to Killer RC for an electronic kill switch that's first rate.
The pics in the above link have their old one. It's the blue unit on the fuel line just before the carb.
It does, yes, but you have to break fully for a long time to get it to stall. I do it on mine and it's incredibly useful, the pros outweigh the cons.Wouldn't that cause it to stall when you brake?
To shut mine down, I run them until the tank is empty at low RPM or stop the flywheel with a screwdriver when making a repair. If something breaks and I don't have parts onsite to fix it, I empty the tank with the fuel bottle and blip the throttle at low RPM until it dies.
I use ARO if the rig is going to sit unused for more than a month. When storing an engine for winter, I take it out of the vehicle, put many drops of ARO down the carb and in the GP hole then turn it over a few times and store it in a baggy. That's if it's an engine I care about.
Looks like house dust. Must have been a busy week. Sorry, it won't happen again.Is that dirt I see on the plastic parts!? You're letting it slip....
Get that Samoan boy of yours busy.Looks like house dust. Must have been a busy week. Sorry, it won't happen again.