Considering a 1/10 scale crawler

[Tallbump]

So I ended up staying with the 3 link setup

But I feel like something is wrong
It really leans to one side

No shocks yet, and I know that will offer support, but I feel like something is off

I have the one link on the wrong side? It's hard to tell from the instructions which side it's supposed to be on

 

[WickedFog]

I've been trying to design (in my head ) something like that for my scx10 III Bronco front end. Steering linkage is in the way.

You would have to get creative with your steering link. Hint: it doesn't have to be a straight bar

 

[WickedFog]

So I ended up staying with the 3 link setup

But I feel like something is wrong
It really leans to one side

No shocks yet, and I know that will offer support, but I feel like something is off

I have the one link on the wrong side? It's hard to tell from the instructions which side it's supposed to be on

View attachment 272115

View attachment 272116

View attachment 272117

Hard to tell in the pics on my phone, but do you have your panhard and steering link on the proper sides of the steering knuckle mounting points? If you move that link to the wrong side it will drastically throw off your adjustment.

Get some more light on things and take a few pics of the link ends.

Did I mention I hate panhard bars?

One of the crawler gurus should be along to help you. I don't have anything remotely close to this truck you're piecing together. Did you download a manual?

 

[RLB454]

You will probably need to adjust the length of the pan hard to allow the most even travel, so that both ph and steering link stay pretty parallel to each other during the travel. You wont be able to go by the length of the pan hard in the manual since you are not using Element axles, and the mounting location on the axle is most likely different. You can tune that with the rod ends by threading them in or out, trying longer or shorter rod ends, or may need to cut the link itself and thread with a die if it needs to be shorter than you have rod end adjustment. It sounds a lot more complicated that it is. If you have the mounts to put servo on axle, that will be a better set up. If not enough room for 4 link with drive shaft position, then it will have to be the 3 link and pan hard. If you do go servo on axle, you will probably need to remove the chassis servo mount so the servo can clear.

 

[Tallbump]

You will probably need to adjust the length of the pan hard to allow the most even travel, so that both ph and steering link stay pretty parallel to each other during the travel. You wont be able to go by the length of the pan hard in the manual since you are not using Element axles, and the mounting location on the axle is most likely different. You can tune that with the rod ends by threading them in or out, trying longer or shorter rod ends, or may need to cut the link itself and thread with a die if it needs to be shorter than you have rod end adjustment. It sounds a lot more complicated that it is. If you have the mounts to put servo on axle, that will be a better set up. If not enough room for 4 link with drive shaft position, then it will have to be the 3 link and pan hard. If you do go servo on axle, you will probably need to remove the chassis servo mount so the servo can clear.

I don't know how else they can go
This whole 3 link/pan hard thing is new to me and I don't understand it
But everything "fits"/lines up, it just has very limited flex/travel.
The steering link and pan hard link are parallel.
But the steering link really seems to limit how far it can travel. But it lines up and seems to steer fine
If I put a longer link on, it would extend past the servo horn
It does appear that issue might be that the pan hard bar hits the pumpkin when the rig flexes
Maybe I need a bent bat?

 

[Doom!]

I am so used to looking at my Elements that it throws me off looking at different brands. I like that Element tucks the steering link behind the front axle. Makes the front look cleaner. I wish I had a definative answer for you. @MVRCA is our resident knowledge base when it comes to setting up crawlers.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Is there any reason why you can't go back to the 4 link?

To me the link geometry looked much "happier" in these photos.

 

[RLB454]

Move your upper link to the other side, see what you get. You might also need to swap side with the servo if it does not clear the link.

 

[RLB454]

This might make a little sense, Mr Holmes speaks in easy to understand terms. 3 link with pan hard starts at about 2:40 in the vid:

 

[WickedFog]

I'm with Creepy. Take that panhard bar and see how far you can throw it. I'm mad at it and I ain't even working on it

 

[Tallbump]

I

Is there any reason why you can't go back to the 4 link?




To me the link geometry looked much "happier" in these photos.l

I had to remove the servo mount from the frame. The servo was hitting the middle bar. When I did that, I didn't have anythign to attach teh shock mounts so as the bolts go through the frame and then thread into the bracket.

I didn't have 4 nuts which should work, nor do I have anything else they could thread into. I thought about using the Dremel to remove that bar, but, I didn't want to do something that can't be undone

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Okay, I think I follow now.

So in this configuration the upper links are hitting the frame/chassis mount?

Or is it more in this area?

This all looks like it's completely compressed, too.

Okay, so you removed the upper plate to go servo on axle? And then it left you with no where to mount the shock towers?

May have to pick up some 3mm hardware in order to bolt that back up unless you want to cut that servo plate and put the frame pieces back.

I don't believe those servo mounts in plastic would be expensive to replace if you ever wanted to go back the other way.

 

[Tallbump]

Okay, I think I follow now.

So in this configuration the upper links are hitting the frame/chassis mount?

View attachment 272222

Or is it more in this area?

View attachment 272223

This all looks like it's completely compressed, too.

Okay, so you removed the upper plate to go servo on axle? And then it left you with no where to mount the shock towers?

View attachment 272224

View attachment 272225

May have to pick up some 3mm hardware in order to bolt that back up unless you want to cut that servo plate and put the frame pieces back.

View attachment 272226

I don't believe those servo mounts in plastic would be expensive to replace if you ever wanted to go back the other way.

Yes
Removing the service no mount gave me no way to mount the shock mounts
I found a plastic mount on Amazon for $14
Although a hardware kit would probably be about the same

 

[RLB454]

Yes
Removing the service no mount gave me no way to mount the shock mounts
I found a plastic mount on Amazon for $14
Although a hardware kit would probably be about the same

I would eliminate the mount all together and use 3mm nylock nuts for the shock towers. With the Samix towers and cross member, you wont need any other bracing as long as you keep the front bumper mount. 3mm nuts are super cheap, I can even send you some from my stash if you need, but any True Value or Ace Hardware should have them in their specialty bins.

 

[RLB454]

Also, I think I might still have a plastic mount I can send you if you wanted to go that way. Save your 14 bucks and take your kiddos out for an ice cream

 

[Tallbump]

Also, I think I might still have a plastic mount I can send you if you wanted to go that way. Save your 14 bucks and take your kiddos out for an ice cream

I can grab some nuts and try it

We have Value Home Centers here. They're nearby and a great place to grab just a few nuts and bolts

 

[Tallbump]

I found a free file to pring a plastic servo mount. I'll hack it up and use it to support the shock towers

Just ordered the transmission and shock oil. Should have it up and running in a few days

 

[WRM]

I found a free file to pring a plastic servo mount. I'll hack it up and use it to support the shock towers

Just ordered the transmission and shock oil. Should have it up and running in a few days

Running out of fluids seems to be more common than I expected (buddy needed some Diff fluid last night), but I still have plenty left (after four Tekno builds).

"Grease is cheaper than parts".

 

[Tallbump]

Running out of fluids seems to be more common than I expected (buddy needed some Diff fluid last night), but I still have plenty left (after four Tekno builds).

"Grease is cheaper than parts".

I have never bought anything
The axles come greased
I've always used friction shocks but for these I had to go oiled filled
Just went 30 weight as this won't be too heavy

 

[Tallbump]

It SHOULD be drivable today!
I need a nut to go one the link where it attaches to the chassis
And I don't have the right tool to get the screws out of the diff cover to do the servo mount
My buddy is coming over this afternoon and we should be finishing everything up

Then it will be on to the body!