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clutch problem?

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nitro_desert

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  1. Bashing
ok i just finished maaajor fixing my buggy..almost everything was broken...well i tried it out just now ran it half a tank and then it started screaming... the tires move but not as fast...it would just scream and move slowly..is the clutch broken?? or do i need to tighten it?? and if its broken is there a way i can run the buggy with a broken clutch? cause tomorow I'm going to a hill climb and I'm broke so i can't buy a new clutch :\
 
Check your drive shafts. Sounds like you threw a pin in your CVD's. Since it's a buggy it will send most if not all power to the spot of least resistance.
 
okk i dont think its from the clutch..i checked all the dogbones they are all their and moving...i started the buggy up and i can see the spur gear moving fast without moving the tires!!.. i shut it off.. i spin the back tires and the spur gear moves..i move the front wheels but the spur gear wont move..it just moves a bit..
 
I see, you have a pin missing from a CVD or drive axle somewhere. possibly in the front.
Or you broke a pin inside the diff cups behind the bevel gears.
 
umm thanx 4 ur help but i actually fixed it...i found this small screw on the spur gear i dont think its for the clutch cause its a differetnial spur...so i guess it doesn't need a clutch...i tightened the diff soo much that the front and the back wheels move at the same time...i get awsome acceleration!!
 
umm thanx 4 ur help but i actually fixed it...i found this small screw on the spur gear i dont think its for the clutch cause its a differetnial spur...so i guess it doesn't need a clutch...i tightened the diff soo much that the front and the back wheels move at the same time...i get awsome acceleration!!

Bear in mind that over-tightening your center diffs (through locking or overly thick oil) will put additional stress on the engine and could blow your drivetrain. You want some "give" in your center diff so if/when you hit bumps etc which would change stress on the center diff it doesn't strip your diff gears or push that resistance back to the drivetrain. Locked center diff=blown gears/engine shaft.

I'm in the middle of finishing an article on Diff oil & diff setups and from what I've learned from interviews with some experts at Team Associated and other sources a good rule of thumb is this:

Smoother track=heavier diff fliuds, rougher terrain=thinner diff fluids. heavier wheels/rotational mass or heavier chassis=thicker diff, lighter wheels/rotational mass or lighter chassis=lighter diff.
 
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