I have a new OFNA engine that is going into my HB lightning Pro. The problem now is that the bell that I had from the old HB engine had a bell that I thought would fit on the new OFNA engine. I guess that's what I get when I assume.... RRRRRRRRRRRRRR. The bell has a lot of play in it, about a good 1/4 inch on the shaft. Can I get a bell that is longer? Do I need to get a new clutch along with the bell? Also I have seen a lot of flywheels that have ventalation in them but have not seen anyone use them. Are these a good idea? Thanks in advance.
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Clutch and Bell
- Thread starter mudd46738
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Just shim it.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNT03&P=7
Not sure where you have play, but in almost all cases, shims are required to get things to fit right.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNT03&P=7
Not sure where you have play, but in almost all cases, shims are required to get things to fit right.
- Thread starter
- #4
Shorten the engine shaft!!!!! It looks to me that some bells have a longer distance from the "bell" to the teeth. The problem could because of the older clutch and bell. Are there shorter and longer clutches? I need a battery for the camera otherwise I would put a picture up. Shims would work but will that be the short cut to just buying a longer bell?
I'm not 100% sure what your alignment issue is. But this is what shims are made for. They allow you to move things to fit properly.
If your bell/teeth are too close to the engine to engage your spur properly, you shim out the flywheel away from the engine.
If everything lines up and you have excess shaft (one could only hope... lol), then you put your flywheel/bell/bearings on, then shims to take up the slop between the bearing and the end of the shaft.
What you don't want is shim the bell away from the flywheel or you end up not having your shoes make full contact with the bell. This will work for a while, but as the shoes wear, they will hang up on the back lip of the bell.
When shimming, you want to move the flywheel/bell as one for all intensive purposes.
I've probably installed over 30 engines in vehicles... very few of them did not require some shims in some shape or form. Actually, I can't recall any that didn't require at least 1 shim.
If your bell/teeth are too close to the engine to engage your spur properly, you shim out the flywheel away from the engine.
If everything lines up and you have excess shaft (one could only hope... lol), then you put your flywheel/bell/bearings on, then shims to take up the slop between the bearing and the end of the shaft.
What you don't want is shim the bell away from the flywheel or you end up not having your shoes make full contact with the bell. This will work for a while, but as the shoes wear, they will hang up on the back lip of the bell.
When shimming, you want to move the flywheel/bell as one for all intensive purposes.
I've probably installed over 30 engines in vehicles... very few of them did not require some shims in some shape or form. Actually, I can't recall any that didn't require at least 1 shim.
- Thread starter
- #6
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...d-Clutch-Bell-w-Bearings-13T-Losi-8ight-Style
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...d-Clutch-Bell-w-Bearings-13T-Mugen-OFNA-Style
I was wondering if there are diffrent lengths from the the actual bell to the teeth. I am really sorry if what I am asking makes no sense. LOL I am thinking that since my two shoe clutch is from the stone age I might look at getting a new one. That might solve the problem right there. It looks to me like the new clutches take up more space and would solve my problem. Oh and by the way, I have excess shaft, thats my problem. LMAO Thanks for all the advise, I am sure if I lived close and you could see it you would know how to fix it.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...d-Clutch-Bell-w-Bearings-13T-Mugen-OFNA-Style
I was wondering if there are diffrent lengths from the the actual bell to the teeth. I am really sorry if what I am asking makes no sense. LOL I am thinking that since my two shoe clutch is from the stone age I might look at getting a new one. That might solve the problem right there. It looks to me like the new clutches take up more space and would solve my problem. Oh and by the way, I have excess shaft, thats my problem. LMAO Thanks for all the advise, I am sure if I lived close and you could see it you would know how to fix it.
Bells do differ in length. Flywheels differ in thickness, crank cases differ in length, engine mounts differ in placement. Which is why shims are necessary.
Is your rig a buggy or truggy? A typical 3-shoe composite/teflon clutch should work fine for you if it's a buggy.
This is one I use a lot:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGWY3&P=7
Is your rig a buggy or truggy? A typical 3-shoe composite/teflon clutch should work fine for you if it's a buggy.
This is one I use a lot:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGWY3&P=7
- Thread starter
- #8
I have a buggy. It is roughly 4 years old. The shaft on the OFNA's .28 engine is longer than the HB's .26. I think thats where a new clutch has to be "thicker" than 4 years ago.
At the LHS they never have the parts in stock and have to order them which sucks when you don't really know what you want and need. I was told that I am going to need a 14t bell anyway, due to the OFNA's high torque and not so much top end. If my 1:1 didn't need so much attention at this time I would just order a crap ton of parts and send the ones that I don't use back.
Would it be safer to stay with OFNA parts for the clutch and bell??
At the LHS they never have the parts in stock and have to order them which sucks when you don't really know what you want and need. I was told that I am going to need a 14t bell anyway, due to the OFNA's high torque and not so much top end. If my 1:1 didn't need so much attention at this time I would just order a crap ton of parts and send the ones that I don't use back.
Would it be safer to stay with OFNA parts for the clutch and bell??
w bill
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I preffer fitting the parts up properly without the use of shims thats the more profesional approch.Only use shims in places absolutly nessary like gear boxes and such. There used to correct machining tolerance differences.If you could get some pictures up it would make it much easier to understand the problem.
