So I have 2 and a half sets of rounded tires and hexes I want to reuse them check out part 1 this series isn’t going to be every week upload every 2 weeks another part will come out
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Thanks the camera falling over was totally on purpose and I feel like glue would work with a brushed motor but brushless they would be dead I just had this idea thought it would make for a interesting videosLove the camera falling over
Pretty smart thinking for a fix. But your wheel nut won't fit on there now. If you use countersunk flat head screws, you'd be ok with this fix.
If your wheels and hexes are rounded, a quick fix would be to use epoxy to glue the nut into the wheel. But I would just replace everything instead. One thing I do before each run is check the wheel nuts, which will help prevent you stripping your hexes.
Totally different hex there lol.I have been able to use a torx bit of congruent size to remove/install rounded hexeses
One of my old nemeses... wheel nuts not holding. I check my nuts every single stinkin' time I take my RCs out to play. Nylon locking, serrated, flanged wheel nuts... they all wear out. I have used a blue threadlocker for the past ten years to combat the issue. Since using threadlocker on my wheel nuts, I rarely have any issues. As long as the wheel is of nylon type, they should be good to go. If racing, I'd use fresh locking/serrated wheel nuts if no time to let threadlocker dry.Love the camera falling over
Pretty smart thinking for a fix. But your wheel nut won't fit on there now. If you use countersunk flat head screws, you'd be ok with this fix.
If your wheels and hexes are rounded, a quick fix would be to use epoxy to glue the nut into the wheel. But I would just replace everything instead. One thing I do before each run is check the wheel nuts, which will help prevent you stripping your hexes.
Whenever I have had a buggy that liked to shred the rear wheels, I would loosen the slipper slightly. It sometimes fixes the problem. High traction surfaces like grass or sticky pavement will often put a lot of stress on the wheels, so the slipper is there to balance the load. You might play with that and see if it helps.One of my old nemeses... wheel nuts not holding. I check my nuts every single stinkin' time I take my RCs out to play. Nylon locking, serrated, flanged wheel nuts... they all wear out. I have used a blue threadlocker for the past ten years to combat the issue. Since using threadlocker on my wheel nuts, I rarely have any issues. As long as the wheel is of nylon type, they should be good to go. If racing, I'd use fresh locking/serrated wheel nuts if no time to let threadlocker dry.
OkFor the wheel nuts, yeah it will help. Not to glue the hexes in.
Picture on thatFunny you say that because the printed wheels I run on my drag car are PIN DRIVE .. Handling 4.5t power and havent stripped the pin socket YET..
Yeah, I have ran tons of vintage buggies in my day. The old RC10's, Kyosho's, etc. I don't recal ever stripping a pinned wheel.Funny you say that because the printed wheels I run on my drag car are PIN DRIVE .. Handling 4.5t power and havent stripped the pin socket YET..
no problem.. Printed out of some amazon basics silver PLA..Picture on that
You have to see the rest of the build. It's not just sick. It's the dayum plague.That’s sick
THAT made me belly laugh my friend!!You have to see the rest of the build. It's not just sick. It's the dayum plague.
Surface area of a hex. With the advent of better motors, and batteries, we needed better wheels to handle more stress for longer periods of time.Never used to have this problem back when they had the pin groove molded right into the wheels
Instead of a hex, they should use squares, or go back to pinned wheels. No idea why they ever started doing the hexes anyway. I assume so people would have to buy more wheels.