Can Someone help me please???

[xdoctordoomx]

I just got a nitro evader st. I broke in the engine like it said on the video. But now when I fire it up the fuel spits out of the pipe. Now i can even start it. The motor looks like to be flooded where the glow sick is. can someone tell me how to fix this please. I really dont know what I am doing. Thanks!

 

[beason]

sounds rich.. take out glow plug and turn motor over to clean out extra gas.. then check plug to make sure its still good.. then put it in and try again.. check the low needle make sure your not to rich..

 

[Diver6127]

Your engine is running extremely rich. Lean out the HSN 1/8 of a turn and try to restart. Lean out your LSN 1/16 of a turn as well. If it get's hydrolocked, take out the glwplug, hold it upside down and pull the pullstart a couple of times to clear the cylinder. Replace the plug and try to restart.

 

[racin_38]

hey bud ,,,
i had a nitro evader and if your talking about the fuel spitting out the pipe ,mine always did
for some strange reason the fuel always backs up thru the pressure line from the pipe to the tank ,very easilyi may add,
what are your needles set at too??
mine always ran excellent at about 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 turns from snug on the HSN
and about 1/4 to 3/8 of a turn in from flush on the LSN
if that doesn't help ya lemme know i will try to talk ya thru some things ,

1 more thing if it is flooded then it will be very very hard to pull over with the pull cord DO NOT yank on it ,it will snap on ya ,do like beason says remove the gloplug stick a towel over the heatsink and turn the truck over and pull the cord about 10 to 15 times to clean it out,,but remeber to make sure there isnt anything like dirt and stuff in beside the plug before you remove it or you run the risk of that dirt being dropped in ontop of the piston ,

 

[olds97_lss]

This works best when done outside so you can turn the whole truck upside down and rip the cord a few quick times. That way the stuff that comes out won't go up, then back into the engine.

 

[SuperMaxx83]

i have a nitro evader and ever since i bouht it it has done the same thing but my problem was the piston and sleeve were bad so i sent it in for warrenty and they fixed it and then i rebroke it in again and it was a couple of tanks later it started again and now it is the same problem as be4 and the temp never ran over 240" so now i got a megatech 16 and i have to say a much better motor

 

[xdoctordoomx]

well I turned it upside down and tried flushing the fuel out. I"m letting the whole car set upside for 24 hours until I get a glow plug to see if itll work. I'll let you know if it works.

 

[Pinblaster]

If you happen to have a .05mm lead pencel laying around your house, thats your throttle opening gauge, but don't use the lead because its too brittle and you don't need lead in your motor. Find a straight pin or wire the same size as the .05mm lead and use that to set your throttle opening/idle speed (not running)the .05mm wire should slide in the opening with a little tension. Once you have that set, gently screw your LSN in until you start to feel pressure and stop (don't torque it in because you will ruin the needle valve. Back it out 1 full turn. Now screw your HSN in untill it bottems. Screw it out 1 3/4 turns. Start your truck, run it around the yard of r few minutes then check your temps. Adjust your HSN to get the temps between 230 and 270. If you don't have a temp guage, go buy one. Your LHS should have them for $25.
adjust the HSN until it runs smooth from Idle to top speed w/o lag or sputter. If it sputters at top speed, turn the HSN out 1/8 turn at a time until it's smooth. If it boggs at take off, screw the HSN in a bit. Once you have the HSN set you can tweek the LSN. LSN is right when you can idle for at least 1 minute with out it dying and if you pinch the fuel line you should be able to count to between 3 to 5 seconds before the motor dies. When you have it all set, the weather will change and all you will have to do is tweek the HSN a bit. Never more than 1/4 turn in ether direction.

 

[Plaidfish]

Step-1:
buy this
http://www.southeastrc.com/item/MAN1014

Step-2:
read it

Step-3:
realize you are going to have to do a lot of "work" to make your RC run well.......

Step-4:
decide whether or not you really want to do this......

Step-5:
don't say we didn't warn you.......

 

[Pinblaster]

Plaidfish, I didn't get that book but I got another book and read lots of info before I started messing with Nitro. I'm still not sure I want to get into this hobby but after spending about $2k over the past 3 months, I guess I'm vested in the sport and too late to back out now. :hammer: may as well race em, wreck em and fix em til I wreck em again. :shrug:

 

[BOWTIE1]

Pinblaster lol i here ya if u get a 1/8 buggy u wuld have more fun...... 1/10 scale is gr8 but if u wnat to ahve something that is verry durable and dont brake much get a 1/8 buggy.... they are fast and cost a lil more but it is way more fun for racing and bashing...imo...

 

[racin_38]

pinblaster ,your info is a little off ,,
the motor in the evaders is a OS .18 made for duratrax,the HSN should be set at 2 1/2 turns from snug and the LSN is 1 3/4 turns from snug (stock settings)
your setting would work great for a standard small block but the .18 in these need a little more needle to run proper
trust me not being an ass here but i had 2 of these and if you even get close to 2 turns on the hsn they will over heat in a heart beat i always ran mine around 2 1/2 to 2 1/4 hsn and about flush with the carb face with the lsn..
as for the fuel being spit from the exhaust both mine did this for some reason esp when cold and priming the carb for starting and if you turnt them over the fuel would just run out the pipe ,the tank seals suck in these trucks ,the replacement 1's seem to be better then the 1's that are install from factory for some reason ,and 1 more thing to watch for with the nitro evader they are very prone to ripping up the main diff gear ,save some cash and invest in the aluminum gears and the titanium balls for in the diffs and use trinity diff grease
btw:what plugs are you using in yours they well mine liked the os #8 plugs ,
just my

as for the temp gun most definately get 1
take care
rick

 

[Pinblaster]

pinblaster ,your info is a little off ,,
the motor in the evaders is a OS .18 made for duratrax,rick

Well I wouldn't know what engine he has since he didn't mention it. Anyway, if he is running ROAR/IFMAR spec. races, the .18 motor isn't legal anyway for 1/10 classes. So I assumed he was running a legal .12 motor and the last time I looked at an Evader, it was a 1/10 scale car/truck.

No one can give fully correct answers with out all of the details anyway. You can't go to AutoZone and get the right plugs for a 1972 Ford truck if you don't tell them what size engine you have either. :shrug: But you are right, the settings I gave were for the .12-.15 motors and cold climates, and have been the closets to actual settings I have gotten, outside of factory (break in) settings. I guess we can just keep :hammer: until he gets the right answers.

 

[racin_38]

very true pinblaster ,i just assumed it was the original motor in the evader and yes you are right they are not roar legal t orace with simply because of the ,18 in them

but like you said we can only guess the answers simply cause we dont know what engine he is running
i was not tring to piss anyone off and if i did,,pin i am very sorry ,
take care
rick

 

[Pinblaster]

No problem Rick. I run RC10GT and Losi XXX-NT and don't know much about the Vader other than the little bit of research I was doing before I got the XXX-NT. But I never considered the RTR package since I was looking at the OS 12CV-R for my local track anyway. I was looking to upgrade from the old tub chassis GT I had and the Evader looked pretty nice. Got a great deal on a slightly used XXX-NT AD edition w/radio, so I forgot all about the Evader. :beer:

 

[aleks138]

Does anyone know if it is ok to use starting fluid when starting the engine?

 

[.21Rc10GT]

Starting fluid? Like in the spray can?! I would not suggest it, because it contains no lube whatsoever, its just like carb cleaner, it dries up and leaves residue, i wouldnt reccomend it.

 

[aleks138]

Yes, the stuff in the can, and some ones have "upper cylinder lubricants." That is what the can says.

 

[racin_38]

i would listen to GT and not use it it could create you a world of hurt if you use it and it pops off and blows the heatsink back in your face or something ,,
kinda like a little bomb ,,,notta good thing bud
try tuning alittle better if your havingthat much trouble starting your rc
just my

 

[PiErow]

To help start your engine

A) use a heat gun to heat it up
B) After run oil is the BEST lubericant for an rc.