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Timmahh

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Location
Tri City area Michigan
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
ok in the last few days I've been buying up some parts for the build. still not sure on the chassis, but so far i have


Novak Goat ESC and Motor (thanx Charles the Man).
I have found and bought a VF Dig New never used with new 225 servo, servo mount and used Axial tranny in perfect shape. (this unit was bought just prior to the merge with DNA i understand)
MSD Top Gun Rock Solid Beadlocks new never mounted or used.

and a pair of lightly used beefed up Axial axles ( RCP axial axles, axial kit axles with new era wheely king lockers. These have rcp knuckles, C's, lockouts )

i ll be probably useing a set of Losi Rock Claws or the Hammers on the MSDs.
debating chassis (home made or the X79 with the Sinastir links)
home made links
traxxas driveshafts
home made 4link and electronics mounting plates
Losi or maybe Junfacs or Junfac Zero Shocks
JRZ9000T for steering (already have)traxxas screwpins (I'm sick n tired of the set screws comeing loose)


so I'm about 1/2 way there now. i should find out about the Axles tomorrow and will take a look at what it will take to come up with a tuber, or just buy the X79 and links.
will also likly order the shocks and tires tomorrow.
 
I can't stress enough that the Losi crawler shocks are BY FAR the best shocks that I've ever used on any RC, which says a lot because I've had somewhere around 30 RC's in the past year.

I would also HIGHLY reccomend getting a set of Axial heavy duty ring and pinions for the axles. Those are the only axle parts that I think you don't have, and they're A LOT stronger than the stock gears. It's a one piece design that works a lot better. I opened one of my kits the other day just to use the axles for my test rig. Prior to that I had only run the heavy duty diff gears in my axles. I built them with the stock gears, just to see how they would hold up. I have to tear the axles down today just because on the first trip out, I tore something up in the diff.

I think I came really close to buyng the same dig setup and wheels that you bought. The MSD beadlock wheels are amazing. There's not many beadlock manufacturers that have built anything that will hold a bead like the MSD's, and I just think they look dam good. You will need to modify the aluminum axial hexes. The stock hexes have a litte ring that fits into a groove on the Axial and proline wheels. You will need to take a dremel and grind that ridge down flat so it's like a normal hex for the MSD beadlocks, assuming that the topgun uses the same hex design as the straight six, and I think it does.

For the dig, plan on installing and setting it up when you have some time to play around with it. Those digs usually require some sanding, fine tuning, for the parts to work together just right. It might seem like a pain at first but when you get done you will have the most durable, most consistent dig out there. I also have a first gen VF dig just because my digs that I have on backorder still haven't been shipped yet. A lot of people like to keep an extra servo in the pit box, because the digs are hard on the mini servos. If you make sure to spend some time fine tuning the endpoints your servo will hold up fairly well.

I have a set of Hammers and Rock Claws, and the Rock Claws are better all around crawling tires in my opinion. I think if you can, it's a really good idea to buy both for one reason, the memory foams. I think the pro-line memory foam and Losi Claws combo works quite well, and it's more economical to buy the hammers with memory foams and claws than just the memory foams and claws, because the hammers are just a little more than the memory foams by themselves, and the stock Losi foams aren't anything special that come with the claws, and will need a good bit of modification. I think Losi has designed a memory foam that will be sold with the Carvers, but I'm not positive. I about that. I don't run anything but memory foam now because of the way they perform, and you don't even have to cut them.
 
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sounds like u got some good parts there man, should be a nice rig....i look forward to seeing progress reports lol.
 
thanx for the info and words. ya, the MSDs deal was like a sore peter, you can't beater. the Dig wasn't a huge deal but decent considering it was new never used, has the linkage, servo mount and new 255 servo and a used Axial tranny in great shape.

havent heard back from the guy with the axles yet. but hope to today. hes here in MI, and maybe close enough to pick them up maybe.
 
thanx for the info and words. ya, the MSDs deal was like a sore peter, you can't beater. the Dig wasn't a huge deal but decent considering it was new never used, has the linkage, servo mount and new 255 servo and a used Axial tranny in great shape.

havent heard back from the guy with the axles yet. but hope to today. hes here in MI, and maybe close enough to pick them up maybe.

If it's the dig that I'm thinking about (I'm pretty sure it is) then you got it for a great deal. I gave more than that for a used dig that needed parts a while back. It didn't come with the servo either. Because of the demand, the guys that have used digs ready to ship are able to sell them for more than the new digs cost.

The MSD's were definitely an exceptional deal. They're kinda like the digs, they are hard to come by and the used ones often sell for more than the new ones because MSD only makes and sells a select number at a time.

I forgot to mention something else. There is a weak spot in the tranny, and once you upgrade the driveshafts to something heavy duty, this becomes the weak link. There are two metal gears in the tranny and one plastic gear. I think it would be the idler gear but I'm not positive, gotta look at the manual today. I would highly reccomend at least replacing that plastic gear with something heavy duty. The goat isn't going to be breaking a lot of parts like a more powerful motor would, but it does have a good bit of torque and will break weak parts like that plastic gear.

For the driveshaft, are you considering traxxas just because of needing a short driveshaft for the dig? I really like the MIP driveshafts, and I now have two sets and I'm about to order two more. MIP now has a driveshaft set specifically for the VF dig. I had hell finding it, but it's sold by Thunder Tech Racing. You can buy just the rear shaft or the set. The traxxas shafts are better than the stock ones, but these MIP shafts are insane. I like the metal driveshafts because it puts the weight down low where you need it, and the plastic shafts really take a lot of abuse because they are in constant contact with the rocks. The metal driveshafts hold up A LOT better over time. I would consider the MIP driveshaft to be one of the top mods on the list of most important.
http://thundertechracing.com/crawler.htm
 
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again Charles Great stuff.

after getting some tube and solid rod and a few other items today, i can see its going to take me a few weeks to bend up the pieces correctly to start my own Tuber design.
in the mean time i drew up a design for a flat plate chassis. I'm going to cut out a few pieces and see how they work on the stock setup.

but for the build, i think its going to be the X79. once i get my tuber built, i ll do something different with the Sinastir then.
but i have to say the death metal garage 2.2 chassis is the SHIZNIT at 250.00, plust its all aluminum, so i can ANODIZE it.
anyways. got some headway, with any luck, i ll have a ready to run system end of next week or the week after.
 
i got the Dig unit yesterday and the Rims. i still need to get shocks, shoes and a cage/links setup. axles should be here in a few days as well.
 
well i guess its time for an updage.

changed gears and I'm going with a scale build with a tuber addition. maybe even exo. but for now I'm still gathering moding/building

so an update in items

Reign K5 chassis with derlin skid drilled for axial tranny and traxxas links and 4 bent links from steel. set of new Proline Flat Irons for the scaler and a set of Hammer m3s for the ax 10, both with mamory foams. MIP splined drive shaft for the scaler, even with the Reign, the rear shaft is too long, so i ll probably go to thunder tech and just buy 2 of the modified shorty MIP shafts for Dig use. so for now its got an MIP in front, and a Pede shaft in back.

i made some significant mods to the front axle. moved the bent links inside the inner stock mount, and cut the outter mounting tab off for the shock/links. right now this has short shock on it with the bottom mount on a set of servo mounts flipped and mounted to the 2 holes on each side of the axle. this helps but i will need some new shocks. I'm thinking a set of the RC4WD Remote Resis, or the Scaler white shocks in 110mm for either.

i mounted the stock axial battery plate to the front of the Reign, and set the elecs and MaxAmps 4400 2s lipo pack up there.

in the rear i am still fiddleing with the linkage arrangement, so havent done MUCH modding, but did cut the rear 2 servo plate mounting points down to mount the links onto.

i have clocked the axles a bit to help with drive shaft angles, but not sure if the rear is going to stay at its current location. will depend on how the Rubi body i have coming for it fits. I plan to add a compartment or 2/3 to the jeep body to hide the elecs and battery, as well as water proof them. I may even mod up a faux gas tank to mount the battery in, though i think i want this weight up front as it currently is. mostly becuz in the current arrangement, the front is bearing more weight in the rear, and with the alum rims, i dont think i ll need to add any weight. still playing wiht the general layout, and once the body arrives, i ll get more into that. the body will also get a full do, with brazed roll cage inplace of the molded plastic one, a hood that opens (maybe even housed the elects) maybe doors that open, headlights with dim/bright function, rear lights with functionin break lights, and if i get froggy running lights. if Gussy gets his other toys done, maybe blinkers too. soft top will also be made for the Rubi body along with functioning steering wheel.

ok on with the pics and its current setup.

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and after adding the Flat Irons
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so the current setup is

Reign K5 chassis
Tamiya Shocks, will be changed out for RC4WDs or maybe a set of Losi's
Axial axles with RC4WD straight shaft adapters and shafts in rear. front has Axial CVDs and TCS front hubs. will get alum, clockable Cs too
Modified front axles for new top shock mounts, and inward mounted lower bent links. trimmed outter tab to allow steering clearance for BTA steering mod. custom bent-to-poop idler steering arm.
MIP Splined drive shaft in Fron, and Pede drive shaft in the Rear
MSD Top Gun B/L Rims with Proline Flat Irons for shoes
stock Axial tranny with VF Dig and Hitec 225 Dig servo, works SMOOTH!
Novak Goat system with Max Amps 4400 Lipo saddle pack for juicyness.
TowerPro Steering servo, will get y adapter to also power a mini bluebird servo to move steering wheel in Rubi
Traxxas links and custom steel bent lower links
running this on my React.

I'm sure there will be more once i get the body and get more into it.
ran it last week on a 19t pinion in a sligly different setup. has some KILLER wheel speed and seeing I'm running it on my React, its very easy to get to move slow. i can make it move at a snales pace, then peg the throttle, and do about 25mph. lol
 
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Dude nice build! I feel that I could make a scaler, with all the spare dimond plate my dad has laying around I could make a killer chassy. Maby one day. Nice rig though man, any thoughts on the body yet?
 
nice job man, looks good.
 
yes, body will be a Rubicon hard body. i think its a newbright, its on its way, should be here in the next day or 2 i hope.

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No offense... but what's with that steering arrangement? Is that not sloppy? If it's not then it's all good I suppose but it just looks like it would be sloppy.. especially at the far right turn extreme. :shrug:
 
actually you would think it is by looking at it, but in reality its pretty dang tight. all the linkages move freely, but nothing bends, gives or move, excect the hubs and steering radius. on my axail, i am forever getting the front steering linkage cought up on the rocks. so i worked at it for a few hrs and was able to end up with this. I'm impressed with its funtion, but still need a stronger servo. its got one of the TP servos in but I'm going to stick in my JR Z9100T into it.
 
thought id drop a pic or 2 of the progress on the scaler. I'm hoping to have it in some type of driveable setup by sunday. need to do a few things like new rear links, shorter than the axials. i need about 78mm total, could be interesting to do.

heres the look I'm going for. I ll leave the front pushed forward like it is. gives it that crawler appearance. but i will be installing the rc4wd scalershocks up front, not in droop like i have done to the rears. will need to make up a few mounts on thursday for the top shock mounts.

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trimmed out the body floor area, so the floor sets flat on the chassis. just had to trim the center console and drivers seat a tad to clear for the Dig and servo. also cut a slot for the flywheel up under the dash infront of the firewall. will pop up a pic of that tomorrow.
 
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Lessen, the BTA steering setup is awesome. Pretty much a requirement if you want to have a top notch performing rig. The stock setup places the steering linkage in front of the axles, hence the name BTA (Behind the Axle). I can't release information, but there will soon be some very nice steering options available from some top notch companies to help bring it to the masses more. There are already a few kits on the market but nothing too special IMO.

The steering linkage in front of the axle causes a few problems. First, it hangs up on rocks, decreases clearance, and it the first thing to get caught up if you're approaching the right kind of rock. Second, when crawling, steering is everything. I would even venture to say that steering is pretty much as important as the motor and ESC, because in a crawler you basically have to be able to use the steering to push the whole rig to the side to get it off of obstacles. You also need to use it to walk the rig down a steep incline horizontally so as not to tip, etc... So have the linkage behind the axle prevents you from losing that VERY important steering action when its jammed into a rock.

I completely understand where your coming from and I would have made the same assumption a year ago. But after testing several setups with different options in front of and behind the axle, I can say whole heartedly that the BTA and stock setup is like the difference in night and day. I would compare it to a stock reedy 27 turn motor in a touring car, and a Mamba Max 6900 setup, as far as comparing raw speed. Thats the difference the BTA setup can make in some situations.
 
went to my Buddys today, and made up some new rear lower links. talked with him about a few things on our current builds. After a few Measurements and a couple cuts and threads the new links are installed.
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I set up the shocks in full droop. Today, i need to fab up the upper shock mounts to i can get the axles up to the chassis about 1/2 to 3/4 inch, which will drop the ride height the same amount. then i think i ll try a semi droop if I'm not keen on the full droop.
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Also got this sweet lil tote box from Nick (Clayton78) today too. so its a running/rolling project atm. i really need to dual triangulate the links in the rear atleast. I'm still debating on shifting the tranny forward a half inch or so yet too.
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well, after a few weekends of trying it out, i figured id give a quick update.

I'm going to be pulling the dig, due to the extreme axle angle in the rear, and re doing a few other things on the general setup. will be heading for a more scale build from now on. waiting on replacement shocks from rc4wd. for now will be using an axial tranny, but I'm leaning towards a 3spd tamiya and a trnsfer case from rc4wd to up the scale factor a bit. in the meantime i ll be tearing it down and going thru it. need to get/make some new mounts for axle side links/shocks, will be getting a parma hemi motor for it as well, then it ll be on to the body for more scale details.
 
flip the dig around so you can put the front into free wheel and have it be two wheel drive!!!! that would be sweet lol, spin cookies and do burn outs lol.
 
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