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SkyMaxx
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Welcome to RCNT.
I'll let you do some reading here, and then see if you still have your questions unanswered. The link below is the result of the search function and the terms "bleeding shocks". Give it a read.
CLICK HERE
If your question still goes unanswered, we'll give you a run down on the procedure.
I'll let you do some reading here, and then see if you still have your questions unanswered. The link below is the result of the search function and the terms "bleeding shocks". Give it a read.
CLICK HERE
If your question still goes unanswered, we'll give you a run down on the procedure.
wiita
RCTalk Basher
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- RC Driving Style
drain all old oil throughly. wash bodies if desired.
pull piston down, drop some new oil in. fill about half way. push piston up a down a few times to get air out from under disc. let bubbles rise, fill body with oil about 3mm from top. let it set for a while to ensure air has risen out. place cap on about one thread. compress piston to push excell oil out and tighten cap. if bled properly, when you compress the piston and let go, it should rebound a bit on it's own very slowly. if it doesn't compress completely or shoots out the piston on it's own, you have too much oil in body. if you hear a sqweak in the shock when compress, you have too little, remove cap and try again
wiita
pull piston down, drop some new oil in. fill about half way. push piston up a down a few times to get air out from under disc. let bubbles rise, fill body with oil about 3mm from top. let it set for a while to ensure air has risen out. place cap on about one thread. compress piston to push excell oil out and tighten cap. if bled properly, when you compress the piston and let go, it should rebound a bit on it's own very slowly. if it doesn't compress completely or shoots out the piston on it's own, you have too much oil in body. if you hear a sqweak in the shock when compress, you have too little, remove cap and try again
wiita
Race Director
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After literally hundreds of shocks, I made a little shock holder from a bit of dense foam - just big enough to hold 4 shocks at full extension.
Shocks with bladders are easy, almost a pleasure to work with
1. Empty shocks, clean & check 'O' ring seals, pistons and shock shafts
2. Pull shafts down so piston is at the bottom of the shock
3. Half fill with fresh silicon oil (all 4)
4. Wait about 5 minutes then push (4) pistons about 1/3rd way up but still in oil
5. Wait about 5 minutes then pull (4) pistons back down to bottom, this will ensure trapped air under the piston head is removed
6. Fill shocks (4)
7. Put bladders in place and CAREFULLY screw down a shock cap making sure you dont move the bladder (4)
You should now have 4 shocks air free
Bladderless shocks are a little bit hit & miss because you will tear your hair out trying to get rid of the air in the shock cap - that is unless you hold it upside down, fill with oil then pop it on the shock and quickly screw it down - then wipe up the mess
Then check that the shock isn't actually hydraulic locking (too much oil for the volume of shock)
I always check by compressing the shock then releasing the shaft, if the shock shaft fully extends, you need to slightly loosen the shock cap, compress the shock a tad to release a SMALL amount of oil, retighten the cap whilst not letting the shaft extend again, then check compression again
As a rule I NEVER check shocks by pushing & pulling the shaft, pulling the shaft out of the shock is a sure way to draw air in
But no matter what you do, you'll get messy, just be prepared for it
Of all my cars, I hated doing Associated shocks, loved Traxxas shocks, and Losi shocks would never EVER stay air tight
Good luck
Shocks with bladders are easy, almost a pleasure to work with
1. Empty shocks, clean & check 'O' ring seals, pistons and shock shafts
2. Pull shafts down so piston is at the bottom of the shock
3. Half fill with fresh silicon oil (all 4)
4. Wait about 5 minutes then push (4) pistons about 1/3rd way up but still in oil
5. Wait about 5 minutes then pull (4) pistons back down to bottom, this will ensure trapped air under the piston head is removed
6. Fill shocks (4)
7. Put bladders in place and CAREFULLY screw down a shock cap making sure you dont move the bladder (4)
You should now have 4 shocks air free
Bladderless shocks are a little bit hit & miss because you will tear your hair out trying to get rid of the air in the shock cap - that is unless you hold it upside down, fill with oil then pop it on the shock and quickly screw it down - then wipe up the mess
Then check that the shock isn't actually hydraulic locking (too much oil for the volume of shock)
I always check by compressing the shock then releasing the shaft, if the shock shaft fully extends, you need to slightly loosen the shock cap, compress the shock a tad to release a SMALL amount of oil, retighten the cap whilst not letting the shaft extend again, then check compression again
As a rule I NEVER check shocks by pushing & pulling the shaft, pulling the shaft out of the shock is a sure way to draw air in
But no matter what you do, you'll get messy, just be prepared for it
Of all my cars, I hated doing Associated shocks, loved Traxxas shocks, and Losi shocks would never EVER stay air tight
Good luck
