Battery help

[NK40]

Hello, I'm a complete newbie and need some help with batteries. I have a Reely Dune Fighter Brushed 1:10 RC model car Electric Buggy 4WD RtR 2,4 GHz. It came with a NIMH battery charger attached and the attached 7.2 V 2000 mAh batteries. The batteries only last 3-4 minutes maximum. How long should batteries last? The manual says the car is suitable for use with a LiPo drive battery with 2 cells (nominal voltage of drive battery 7.4V) or NiMH drive battery with 6 or 7 cells (nominal voltage 7.2v or 8.4V). Do you have any suggestions of which battery and charger I should buy in a reasonable price range?

 

[tntpoof]

hello. the thing is you only have 2000mah of battery.. fine for a mini but not a 1/10 scale. and a nixx battery is 1.45+ volts fully charged .. so a 6 cell should come of the charger if delta peak is set correct at 8.7 volts no your listed 7.4 or 7.2 it will self discharge as short as 2 minutes after full charge.. Id look at a lipo charger and battery for the rc.. something in the 5000mah range over 65c 2 cell..then you have a little more run time but being brushed you will have to take a break to allow motor and electronics to cool... Id look into the toolkit m6 or even the m8 if you have a 12v dc power supply in the 10 amp range also id look at the smc brand lipo. they are my go to batteries never failed me yet 10 years of running them

 

[NK40]

hello. the thing is you only have 2000mah of battery.. fine for a mini but not a 1/10 scale. and a nixx battery is 1.45+ volts fully charged .. so a 6 cell should come of the charger if delta peak is set correct at 8.7 volts no your listed 7.4 or 7.2 it will self discharge as short as 2 minutes after full charge.. Id look at a lipo charger and battery for the rc.. something in the 5000mah range over 65c 2 cell..then you have a little more run time but being brushed you will have to take a break to allow motor and electronics to cool... Id look into the toolkit m6 or even the m8 if you have a 12v dc power supply in the 10 amp range also id look at the smc brand lipo. they are my go to batteries never failed me yet 10 years of running them

hello. the thing is you only have 2000mah of battery.. fine for a mini but not a 1/10 scale. and a nixx battery is 1.45+ volts fully charged .. so a 6 cell should come of the charger if delta peak is set correct at 8.7 volts no your listed 7.4 or 7.2 it will self discharge as short as 2 minutes after full charge.. Id look at a lipo charger and battery for the rc.. something in the 5000mah range over 65c 2 cell..then you have a little more run time but being brushed you will have to take a break to allow motor and electronics to cool... Id look into the toolkit m6 or even the m8 if you have a 12v dc power supply in the 10 amp range also id look at the smc brand lipo. they are my go to batteries never failed me yet 10 years of running them

Thank you very much! Do you think the toolkit m6 together with this battery would work? What kind of run time do you think I could expect? How often/long would it need to cool?

 

[tntpoof]

probably close to 35 minutes. id bring to you to cool down after 15 minutes.. the m6 will be good as long as you have a 12v power supply?

 

[NK40]

probably close to 35 minutes. id bring to you to cool down after 15 minutes.. the m6 will be good as long as you have a 12v power supply?

Thanks again and apologies if my questions are too obvious. I just have 2 more questions:

1) How can I know the new battery will have the right connector for the motor? Will I have to change this? See attached the existing connector
2) I guess something just like the attached 12v power supply is ok, right?

 

[tntpoof]

o. the battery that i see in last picture has a deans connector but the other plug I'm not familiar with? that 12 volt power supply you have in picture will not work it does not have the amps (watts we need to operate things in rc hobby). id look at modifying a atx computer power supply. I hve several of these in my hobby room and in my rc bag as a backup to my server power supply with 18.5volts and 90 amps. theirs many different 12v power supplies on the market its choosing the right 1 for ours or your needs...sometimes the cheapest just wont do the job .also the orion battery will not work it has a ec3 connector. you can go view some battery connectors pics online to see what you have then buy a battery with that connector or solder 1 on yourself(this is a skill we all need to somewhat master i did when I was 12 ..some 50 years ago..
here is a power supply that will work but not run charger at full power...
https://www.alliedelec.com/product/...1b&gclid=CNjVheeOwewCFZFJgQodwD4JiQ&gclsrc=ds
also take a look at the charging squids I have 1 and also recommend 1 for you.. some have 10 in 1 connector to charger leads.
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Char...keywords=charging+squid&qid=1603126503&sr=8-5

 

[tntpoof]

You see this is 1 of those hobbies that a person can get really wrapped up in... I have a small collection of solder irons some old school. big copper end 1 would heat with torch then have a limited window to do work b4 it cooled off. and now we have led ;ight irons to help use see what we are doing..id recommend a hotter iron I find it easier to work with and get better solder joints than a colder iron..80watt (good for me) with some in the 60's with 30's solder.

 

[NK40]

You see this is 1 of those hobbies that a person can get really wrapped up in... I have a small collection of solder irons some old school. big copper end 1 would heat with torch then have a limited window to do work b4 it cooled off. and now we have led ;ight irons to help use see what we are doing..id recommend a hotter iron I find it easier to work with and get better solder joints than a colder iron..80watt (good for me) with some in the 60's with 30's solder.

Thanks so much for all your help. I am go to check everything

 

[olds97_lss]

I used to use TRX connectors on everything, but got tired of soldering them and they started popping apart on hard landings. I replaced everything with XT90's. They are easier to solder and tend to stay together better.

When soldering 14AWG on down, a cheap 60watt iron seemed to be enough, but 12AWG-10AWG was nearly impossible without saturating a lot of the wire with heat. I ended up getting a cheap 100W iron and an adjustable rheostat. I set it to 7 or 8 and it will heat the wire/solder/end up in a few seconds.

This is my 60W:
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Kit-Temperature-Rarlight/dp/B07PDK3MX1

My 100W:
https://www.amazon.com/Choice-CH-IRON-100W-soldering/dp/B00XK5RXKC

My rheostat:
https://www.amazon.com/Choice-Rheostat-Soldering-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0727VNGPK

I started with the 60w and got annoyed when I was soldering 10 AWG wire and trying to disassemble lipo packs. It wouldn't even try to melt the solder on the lipo packs. I've since set the 60w to max and wrapped the dial with tape. I just use the rheostat to adjust it now. I use it for smaller stuff as the 100W iron is a bit bulky. It works well for soldering ends on though.

I know most have good luck with the hakko irons, I just didn't feel like spending that much at the time. I think I spent $50 total on the 3 pieces I have.