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Battery Buying Help

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Hey everyone, I'm starting to plan for when I purchase an ARRMA Outcast 4S V2 this summer. I'm trying to figure out which batteries I should buy, and as I don't have much experience, I figured I could ask here. I know I want LiPo, and I also want to get two of them. They have to be 4S. What I don't know is how many MaH I should go for, because I don't know how fast I will run them down. I plan on getting two so I can run one and charge the other. I don't know how fast I can safely cycle them (charge and run and charge again, etc) without causing the battery to get hot or balloon. Battery lead preferred so I can use my LVM.
 
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It looks like you can use the longer LiPO packs with that one, and it's set up for Spektrum IC Connectors. I have two Spektrum "Smart" battery packs (5000mAh/100C) that I've been running in my EB48 for a couple years, and no problems with them. You also need a "Smart" Charger to use with them (I have an S1100).

This is the pack ARRMA recommends:
https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product...g2-hardcase-lipo-battery-ic5/SPMX54S50H5.html

(Edited to add) The G2 Smart chargers can charge all types of batteries, since they also have a balancing cable port, but only G2 Smart chargers can charge G2 battery packs. I wish I'd had known that when I started out/bought my first pair of G2 packs. ;)
 
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It looks like you can use the longer LiPO packs with that one, and it's set up for Spektrum IC Connectors. I have two Spektrum "Smart" battery packs (5000mAh/100C) that I've been running in my EB48 for a couple years, and no problems with them. You also need a "Smart" Charger to use with them (I have an S1100).

This is the pack ARRMA recommends:
https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product...g2-hardcase-lipo-battery-ic5/SPMX54S50H5.html

(Edited to add) The G2 Smart chargers can charge all types of batteries, since they also have a balancing cable port, but only G2 Smart chargers can charge G2 battery packs. I wish I'd had known that when I started out/bought my first pair of G2 packs. ;)
Is this a "smart" charger?
https://a.co/d/0fw09DVd
Also, holy schmoly $100 for 1?!
 
Is this a "smart" charger?
https://a.co/d/0fw09DVd
Also, holy schmoly $100 for 1?!
Negative - that charger requires using a balancing cable, and G2 batteries don't have one of those. It must be a Spektrum G2 Smart charger - the IC connector adds a "communication" wire to an EC, which "substitutes" for the balancing cable. IC connectors can be used with EC connectors. There's quite a few choices, but definitely consider the features as you go up:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Spektrum+G2+Smart+Charger&crid=1TUUAESKD7X3L&sprefix=spektrum+g2+smart+charger,aps,206&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Alternatively, you could use any 4S pack with an EC-5 connector. Here's my packs (IC-5 and EC-5 cable w/bullets), either/both would also work in your rig.
DSCN2922.webp
 
Negative - that charger requires using a balancing cable, and G2 batteries don't have one of those. It must be a Spektrum G2 Smart charger - the IC connector adds a "communication" wire to an EC, which "substitutes" for the balancing cable. IC connectors can be used with EC connectors. There's quite a few choices, but definitely consider the features as you go up:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Spektrum+G2+Smart+Charger&crid=1TUUAESKD7X3L&sprefix=spektrum+g2+smart+charger,aps,206&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Alternatively, you could use any 4S pack with an EC-5 connector. Here's my packs (IC-5 and EC-5 cable w/bullets), either/both would also work in your rig.
View attachment 267963
I will keep that in mind, but for now I would rather not purchase a new charger, and a balance lead is also preferred so I can use my LVM.
 
Cheap pair from amazon. Choose a matching connector. They're as affordable as it gets.
 
 
I wouldn't get anything less than 5200mAh packs. Heck, I don't know if they make any 4S brick packs under 5200mAh nowadays. 🤔 I run 5200mAh 4S pack in my 1/8 scale buggy and 6200mAh 4S pack in my 1/8 scale truggy... 17 minute runtimes are possible. I usually only run my RCs for 10~12 minutes and then switch RCs... gives me time to look things over before next run and let things cool down. I know my buggy/truggy are not the same platform as what you got... just giving you a general idea. Everybody's driving style is different.
 
For my rides that use 4S LiPo packs.... two battery packs and 2C charge rates... I could run all day long if I wanted to. That's generally speaking of course. Once you get into larger capacity 4S LiPo batteries and get a taste for faster charging times, a charger upgrade may be needed. If you end up buying 6000mAh 4S packs and your charger is only 100 watts, you won't be able to even do 1C charge rates. Again, lots of variables. I/we don't know what charger you currently have.
 
Hey everyone, I'm starting to plan for when I purchase an ARRMA Outcast 4S V2 this summer. I'm trying to figure out which batteries I should buy, and as I don't have much experience, I figured I could ask here. I know I want LiPo, and I also want to get two of them. They have to be 4S. What I don't know is how many MaH I should go for, because I don't know how fast I will run them down. I plan on getting two so I can run one and charge the other. I don't know how fast I can safely cycle them (charge and run and charge again, etc) without causing the battery to get hot or balloon. Battery lead preferred so I can use my LVM.
Between my work; my wife's work, and online hobby shorthand... acronyms are very abundant. What is LVM?
 
Hey everyone, I'm starting to plan for when I purchase an ARRMA Outcast 4S V2 this summer. I'm trying to figure out which batteries I should buy, and as I don't have much experience, I figured I could ask here. I know I want LiPo, and I also want to get two of them. They have to be 4S. What I don't know is how many MaH I should go for, because I don't know how fast I will run them down. I plan on getting two so I can run one and charge the other. I don't know how fast I can safely cycle them (charge and run and charge again, etc) without causing the battery to get hot or balloon. Battery lead preferred so I can use my LVM.
Low Voltage Monitor. And I have this charger.
1772409109327.webp

Well, you won't have to worry about doing any faster charge rates with a B6 charger and 4S LiPo batteries. To put things into perspective, IF you were to get a 4S 6000mAh battery, and set the B6's charging amperage to the maximum 5A... your charger will only show 3A on the screen. That's because the B6 charger only has 50 watts of power. A 6000mAh 4S battery, if drained down to 3.4v/cell, would take close to two hours (give or take) to fully charge.
 
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Well, you won't have to worry about doing any faster charge rates with a B6 charger and 4S LiPo batteries. To put things into perspective, IF you were to get a 4S 6000mAh battery, and set the B6's charging amperage to the maximum 5A... your charger will only show 3A on the screen. That's because the B6 charger only has 50 watts of power. A 6000mAh 4S battery, if drained down to 3.4v/cell, would take close to two hours (give or take) to fully charge.
If you upgrade your transformer the B6 will he able to charge at higher levels. I use the power supply from an old television. The B6 just comes with a 50 or 80 watt. But can run much more.
 
If you upgrade your transformer the B6 will he able to charge at higher levels. I use the power supply from an old television. The B6 just comes with a 50 or 80 watt. But can run much more.
I'm no elect-trish-shee-on when it comes to opening up and modifying a charger. Maximum amperage setting is still 5 amps on most legitimate/fake/ or copycat B6 chargers, right? I know the B6 v2 chargers will do 6 amps.
 
If you upgrade your transformer the B6 will he able to charge at higher levels. I use the power supply from an old television. The B6 just comes with a 50 or 80 watt. But can run much more.
I'm no elect-trish-shee-on when it comes to opening up and modifying a charger. Maximum amperage setting is still 5 amps on most legitimate/fake/ or copycat B6 chargers, right? I know the B6 v2 chargers will do 6 amps.
Mine is an 80W 6 amp charger. I don't know how to convert it, and I don't want to screw it up. At some point I will learn more about this, but for now I'm pretty content with it. The gensacearespammers smart chargers are pretty cool too, may save up and get one a few years down the road. I can charge a 2s lipo in 15 minutes on 2C charge rate.
 
I'm no elect-trish-shee-on when it comes to opening up and modifying a charger. Maximum amperage setting is still 5 amps on most legitimate/fake/ or copycat B6 chargers, right? I know the B6 v2 chargers will do 6 amps.
The unit itself is capable of running higher volts and can make use of additional amperage. The limit is the AC/DC power supply that comes with it.
 
1000008016.webp
here is one I use with the power supply from a Sony HDTV. So I can charge 4S At the full 6 amps if I select. With the stock power supply it shuts down.
 
Does it shut down because the power supply can't draw that much?
The shutdown occurs when the load causes the voltage drop to be detected. This restarts the unit and interrupts charging. For the sake of voltage drop the 19.5 voltage label and the 18v limit on the side of the charger are functionally the same metric. So the maximum voltage power supply with North of 250 watts means it never breaks a sweat. The charger has logic to protect from over volting. Also to prevent exceeding the limits of it's power supply. Which is how they got away with the 80w supplied when the unit i think can handle around 160 to 180 watts at peak draw.
Just make sure the positive and negative match and the ends fit and are in range. Other power supplies will work. They're designed to use a lab power supply.
 
The shutdown occurs when the load causes the voltage drop to be detected. This restarts the unit and interrupts charging. For the sake of voltage drop the 19.5 voltage label and the 18v limit on the side of the charger are functionally the same metric. So the maximum voltage power supply with North of 250 watts means it never breaks a sweat. The charger has logic to protect from over volting. Also to prevent exceeding the limits of it's power supply. Which is how they got away with the 80w supplied when the unit i think can handle around 160 to 180 watts at peak draw.
Just make sure the positive and negative match and the ends fit and are in range. Other power supplies will work. They're designed to use a lab power supply.
Interesting, thank you!
 
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