Axle nut always backs out?

[DavidB1126]

The axle nut always backs out just a little when driving. Only happens in the rear. Maybe I put too much power in it? Maybe it's the axle or the hex? I did put threadlocker on it and it did work but I don't want to reapply it each time. And this is happening on the rustler. Hasn't been doing it on the slash or mini b. Now I might wanna carry the Traxxas 4 way wrench in my pocket. Also to note I am using the stock axles that it came with. Planning to upgrade to MIP x duty axles which I have on the slash. I will post pics later if needed.

 

[WickedFog]

Lock nuts eventually wear out if you remove and install them over and over. Have you tried new locknuts?

 

[DavidB1126]

Lock nuts eventually wear out if you remove and install them over and over. Have you tried new locknuts?

I got extras so I will see how they do.
Also I had been having another issue. The suspension pins are coming out. It is always the right rear and the right front pins. The front one is a little bent so I'll replace that but the rear one is fine and straight.

 

[WickedFog]

You can buy better pins, that use a screw and locknut. The stock Traxxas arm pins are crap.

These are for the Slash, and are awesome
https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-rac...h-polished-steel-hinge-pin-sptst3640bk/p34391

Pretty sure they fit the Rustler too.

Yup, they do

 

[Chubaka]

You can buy better pins, that use a screw and locknut. The stock Traxxas arm pins are crap.

These are for the Slash, and are awesome
https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-rac...h-polished-steel-hinge-pin-sptst3640bk/p34391

Pretty sure they fit the Rustler too.

Yup, they do

A dab of greese does wonders on the pins. Just enough to hold.

In the field, a piece of a bag like a ziplock or kitchen trash bag, put that on the axle and screw the nut on to it. You can get a run or two while waiting on replacements.

 

[RustyUs]

If you are not wanting to use a threadlocker on wheel nuts, then choosing a flanged nut would be good. Better yet, flanged serrated. And, if you can find them... flanged serrated nylock lock nuts would be the best. Not a lot of flanged serrated nylock lock nuts out there, but they are out there, and are probably the best option in a racing situation where you are needing to change tires as track conditions change.

 

[ahr43]

Hey DavidB. Carrying a 4-way in your pocket is good insurance. Check those wheel nuts often as a matter of course.

Wondering? Is your Rustler using aftermarket hexes or wheels that are not allowing full length engagement of the nut to the axle threads? Flanged lock nuts are the real deal. Again, flange makes the nut a little 'taller', so check engagement if you use them. I like to have two threads showing after a wheel nut is run full down.

My Rustler is having to run AE close clearance serrated flanged steel nuts on the rear axles. The ones that come with the MT10. Not my first choice for a wheel nut, but with the Pro-Line Raid wheels removeable adapters I lose a bit of axle length. Good luck. Let us know what works for you. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[tntpoof]

purchased some low profile nuts b4 changing rims to solve issue. Even ground down the lock nuts rim, side.

 

[Greywolf74]

I always locktite my wheel nuts otherwise they will eventually come off.

 

[9x19]

Try installing the pin from the opposite side of the arm. That used to be "the fix" for this common problem with suspension screw-pins.

 

[JCsRCcar]

This happens when the motor suddenly stops the wheels from spinning while in the air and eventually causes the nut to come loose and back off. It happens to a lot of RC’s, especially when bashing and while jumping and using reverse while in the air to correct the levelness of the vehicle. Like the above said, flanged serrated nylock lock nuts will reduce that issue a lot.

 

[Greywolf74]

and so will loctite