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Assembling Beadlocks to Stay and not pop off

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Hyster

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RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
I have been waiting for RCCar action to let this one out so non subscribers to check out. This guy not only shows and explains how to put them on but he mentions about preventing tires from popping off due to high powered motors and engines in Slashes and Slayers. Not sure though if what he explains will help me with the type of epic beadlocks I have. Anyways, here it is. BTW, the Slayer is a brushless conversion that Kevin Hetmanski did a while back.

 
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From what I can tell so far is that the beadlock wheels I have are nothing like the ones he's putting together. The ones I have 4 parts to it and not 3 like his. Oh well I guess I'll have to buy a set like his some time. lol
 
Yeah theres a few vids, one being on Prolineracing.com about installing switches onto the Epic beadlocks.
 
I have looked for some on you tube and for some reason I wasn't having any luck but oh well. I have yet to find the one that teaches how to assemble the ones I have which have 4 parts to it.
 
thanks for the video. ima start using youtube more often i forgot how informative some of the videos are.
 
Have a look at SPI's bead lock.
Thanks
Rick
 
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Rick,

Do you have any more information on the SPI beadlocks? I don't think I've heard of the name before.
 
Interesting video. I also like the looks of those SPI beadlocks. I have the same beadlocks as in the first video, the Epics from Proline. I have had no problems with the bead coming loose. I am running a BL motor, but I am not running lipos which may be the big difference for me. I am running 4600 7 cell NiMh packs. Thanks for the video.

Tom
 
No glue required with bead locks

www.spiracingwheels.com

The down side to bead locks is weight. No matter who made the wheels, they are heavier than glue wheels. So your thinking So what? Rotating weight takes 4 times energy of dead weight. The big differance will be in a standing start and comming out of a corrner. Not only do you have to move the extra weight forward, you have to make it gain RPM too. Those two factors combined will KILL your lap time.
I manfacture bead locks, this is kind of shooting my foot, but the lighter wheel is faster. The little bit of hassel is worth the trophy.
Stick with the glue. No pun intened.
Rick
 
www.spiracingwheels.com

The down side to bead locks is weight. No matter who made the wheels, they are heavier than glue wheels. So your thinking So what? Rotating weight takes 4 times energy of dead weight. The big differance will be in a standing start and comming out of a corrner. Not only do you have to move the extra weight forward, you have to make it gain RPM too. Those two factors combined will KILL your lap time.
I manfacture bead locks, this is kind of shooting my foot, but the lighter wheel is faster. The little bit of hassel is worth the trophy.
Stick with the glue. No pun intened.
Rick

I agree... if your racing stick with the plain old dish style glued wheels. If your bashing and don't care about your lap times beadlocks work.
 
Well, I'd say once more and more tracks start taking on a mod SCT class and allow different wheel and tire combinations, more people will start racing with dish style wheels and glue their tires on. They weight so much less and personally I'd rather glue tires on than mess with beadlocks half the time. Dish wheels are cheap and light, and the once the tires wear out, you can just throw both away.
 
Split Six 2.2 for sc10

I had the Proline split six 2.2 wheel installed on my sc10 with a mambo 5700 brush less motor for about a month now. So far I am having no trouble and the wheel and tire combo is holding up really well, so I don't have to worry about gluing my fingers together anymore. :first_place:
 
www.spiracingwheels.com

The down side to bead locks is weight. No matter who made the wheels, they are heavier than glue wheels. So your thinking So what? Rotating weight takes 4 times energy of dead weight. The big differance will be in a standing start and comming out of a corrner. Not only do you have to move the extra weight forward, you have to make it gain RPM too. Those two factors combined will KILL your lap time.
I manfacture bead locks, this is kind of shooting my foot, but the lighter wheel is faster. The little bit of hassel is worth the trophy.
Stick with the glue. No pun intened.
Rick


Very true - and what people also seem to forget (or maybe didn't know) is that beadlocks were bred out of crawling and most of the ones being used by some SC bashers are ones that were originally intended for crawlers.
They're fine for crawling, because the rigs go SLOW, and it makes it easier to secure the very soft rubber tires used in that segment of the hobby (tires that aren't really applicable to SC racing).

Back in the day, of the original RC10 goldtub cars, we had bolt-together beadlock rims on our RC cars - but racers went away from using them because (as was noted above) that lightweight RACING rims using glue-on tires were faster....WAY FASTER.

And ultimately, real racers aren't worried about looks as much as they are worried about getting every bit of speed out of their rigs. :first_place:


So if you plan on racing, go with glue on tire/rim combos - and leave the beadlocks to the crawlers, shelfqueens, and wanna-bees.
 
Or the old guys that won't glue the tires anymore!! I just refuse to glue tires after the Baja came out.
 
I got the same ones, one trick is to put silcone around the bead to keep dirt out that will help keep the things tight.
 
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