anyone airbrush? i need some pointers

[crashland 73]

I have a pretty high end airbrush, and have never done it. I plan on using acrylic paint. I am going to paint my firebird body on my HPI RS4 SS. I would like to do some kind of fire or heat shading type look. I am going with a cany apple red in the rear.

 

[RatzoRC]

There are companies that set pre cut decal sheets in different designs, Flames ETC.
You put the decal on the inside of the body, and paint your candy red.
Peel off the mask, then paint your flames the color you desire.
Don't forget that candy colors have to be backed with another color. Such as Silver,
or sometimes a light coat of black in the corners then silver.

 

[WsW-WYATT-EARP]

check this page out ...

some good info there ...

 

[crashland 73]

i bought a can of bright red for a backing, i might should have gone with silver

 

[kazi]

If you are new with the airbrush and you have not bought the paints I'll recomend you to use water based paints, if you make a mistake you can just remove the paint with hot water and start painting again, once you get the result desired bake the paint with the acrilic paint can and enjoy riding your new body. Good luck.

 

[RatzoRC]

Good idea with the water base paints.
And kazi means back the paint with...not bake.
The candy colors are some what transparent.
To get the candy color to work, you should use silver, so you can see the metalic affect.
A light spray of a darker color in the corners makes a nice effect also.
then silver over it all.

 

[kazi]

uppss, I still have to improove my english skills :stupid:

 

[crashland 73]

i got my pop's airbrush to work today. It is really nice. It will put a very small bead of paint on. Very nice. I bought some masking stuff today at hobby lobby and some paint too. About that acrylic paint that comes in taller bottles, is that ok for plastic? They are about 3" tall and come in a number of colors. It says it will work on a number of stuff but doesn't say plastic.

 

[RatzoRC]

Does it say Lexan??

 

[crashland 73]

it says on the box Campbell Hausfeld since 1836 MP2900 kit

 

[FRIDGE]

you can't pick up the airbruhs and claim yourself michael angelo you know. it takes time and effort to get line consistency. i dont think your using the right paint. spray a part of scrap lexan (cut aways from the body) and wait for it to dry . bend the lexan if the paint begins to chip then you know you can't use it but if it dosent crack then its the right match for you.

 

[crashland 73]

derrrrr duhh! i aint saying i am a michael angelo i just want some tips.

 

[RatzoRC]

It says it will work on a number of stuff but doesn't say plastic.

In the things listed under what it will work on, does it say lexan?
The body's that you will be painting are not made of plastic.
They are made out of lexan.
Yes a type of plastic, but different catagory.

 

[crashland 73]

i dont believe it did, but now i am doubting myself. i will check the next time i am there.

 

[crashland 73]

my first airbrush job, kinda stinks but not too bad for a beginer.

 

[RatzoRC]

Not bad for the first time around.. looks pretty good

 

[cvec7]

What's a good airbush? I am planing on getting one in 2-3 weeks, and I am wondering which to get. My lhs says they really like the "millenia" or something?

 

[ImBroken]

You can't go wrong with the Paasche VL .... Great price, very good airbrush. The Aztek A4709 is also a nice kit, but keeping the pastic nozzles clean can be more of a pain in the A$$...

 

[HIREz]

Ola,
sorry, been racin , not playin on the comp,, double grinzzzz*.....
I just noticed you're looking for a good airbrush,, I'd recommend choosing among the gravity feed Iwata line-up... something like an HP-CS or I think the revolution series there is a similiar model with a .5 needle in it to allow for that "learning" curve... in all actuality the revolution soinds like it would fit you perfectly,, then maybe progress into the HP-CS model....
I've used badger's, pasche's a couple of other brands, and finally tried an iwats,, and I'd have to say (and this is just me) but I won't use any other brand again....
with the fine line detail you'd want to be able to eventually get, badger won't cut it (1mm 'll never happen with a badger unless you thin the bejeebish out of your paint, which gets to be a hassle),
pashe's dont hold up well under laquer/water changes, then massive cleaning over time, but do have amazing detail capabilities.
other brands dont come close to the reliability or detail work you can get out of either one of those above brands... but the iwata brush I have now (i started with a revolution can't remember which , just that it was a gravity feed w/ a .5mm tip, for a couple weeks, then switched to an HP-CS) shows tru-colors in reliability, fine fine detail work, and durability.., all these things add up over time and allow you to either get very creative with your work with no limitations, or if your brush doesn't' have all these things, it will limit your creativity when looking at a new "piece", or lexan-body..


I looked through the link someone posted about beginning tips and airbrushing, and it looked like pertinent information that you could use, but I'd add in if you did go with an iwata top feed, you could spray laqs or water paint at about 35-40 psi at all times and not really worry what media you were using or the thickness of the paint, just focus on your work...

umm dont know if this gives any usable info,, maybe just another opinion,,, hope its something that helps...

Lates!!
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com

 

[cvec7]

Here's my first paintjob w/ the airbrush. I used a badger cressendo 125 I think, I can't ever remeber the name. lol.

The masking wasn't real good, but I'll be sure next time this doesn't happen.