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kyle_battle

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Once again another lame noob question. but i don't know much about this new heat type of break in proses and well from what people are saying its much better then the old skool break in proses. Is it really that much better? Thanks
 

Amoeba

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As far as I'm aware, it's not "better" exactly, it just allows you to break-in your engine faster than the more methodical running at minimal RPM through a couple of tanks. The end result of either method gets your engined broken in and ready to rock, but the heat-cycle method you can get up and playing faster.
 

kyle_battle

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Once again really appreciate the support :] People like you make forums worth while to subscribe to
 

Amoeba

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We're all here to help & learn. The community here is why I think RCNT is the best forum on the net.
 

olds97_lss

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Well, I've never not done the heat cycle method, but the theory is sound. Running an engine overly rich when it's brand new has a tendency of putting unnecessary amounts of stress on the con-rod/con-rod bushings. Not getting the piston/sleeve hot enough doesn't allow the sleeve to expand properly, so you are basically just grinding the piston down to fit and forcing the con-rod to take serious punishment the entire time.

Heat cycle seems to be easier on the engine itself. I don't think it takes any less time, but the point is to get the engine tuned so it's somewhat rich, but so the temps get up over 200F as quickly as possible. This helps to alleviate extra stress on the internals while conditioning the metal with heat.

I still end up burning on average 10 tanks of fuel before I start tuning for good performance. Even then, I'm pretty easy on it for the entire first gallon of fuel.
 

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Said it before, say it again, olds rocks!

I did the heat cycle method when breaking in my LST. While I can not say it's better than the old school method that I have never used, I just feel more comfortable knowing that I didn't stress the engine too badly in the process.
 

kyle_battle

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Your biased due to all the candy I send you... ;)

lol :hehe:

Ok well i guess ill just try the new method. oh and to find out where bdc is I'm guessing i need to take out the plug to see inside? oh and btw i saw a couple diff versions on this break in proses on here..

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66134

and

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42716

The only difference i saw here is that one said to wrap the motor and use a hair dryer to help it achieve temps over 200 faster.. and i did see that you did say the trick here was to get it to temps over quickly so I'm guessing the first method would work a little better eh?
 

olds97_lss

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Yep, first one is pretty good, but I usually base mine off fuel consumption, not time. I run in 1/2 tank increments once I get the engine up to 200F and let it cool down every half tank for about 3 tanks while I tune it a bit leaner to keep the temps up. I drive around as he suggested, but don't go over 1/2 throttle until later.
 

kyle_battle

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ok kool deal thanks :] .. well i have a pretty good idea of where to start now.. I'm glad i decided to do some research on this before i started driving it!

Oh and one more thing.. besides checking all the electrical components and linkages and cleaning the air filter and tightening the bolt/checking the mesh.. how often should you add a.r oil? it says every 10 tanks in the book.. and if u have any more care tips that may help me that be great! XD
 

olds97_lss

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I clean the filter when it looks dirty. Like... really dirty. When I do, I soak it with WD-40 and work the WD-40 through it and let it sit for a minute. Then I wring out the WD-40 and put a bunch of dish soap on it and work it through, then let it sit for a few minutes. While waiting, I put enough water in the sink to submerge the filter and my hand and I squeeze/wring the filter under water to rinse it.

Squeeze/dry it in a paper towel, then spray some filter oil on it in a baggie and work it throughout the filter by wringing it from the outside of the baggie.

I really only do this maybe once or twice a year... but I don't run in dirt really, mostly parks with grass or concrete at a skate park.
 

kyle_battle

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Thanks for the help everyone :]
 

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