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Airbrush and Paint Recommendations?

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zxb466

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Hello all,

Decided to paint by first body. Anyone know of a good airbrush brand they recommend? I know harbor freight has a few, was thinking of going there. They have one brand called Black Widow and another called Avanti. Are these any good or are there other ones you recommend?

Also, where can I get paint to fill the airbrushes with that are okay to spray on RC bodies? It seems as if hobby shops only have spray can paints but haven't seen the liquid ones to fill airbrush containers with.
 
Also, where can I get paint to fill the airbrushes with that are okay to spray on RC bodies? It seems as if hobby shops only have spray can paints but haven't seen the liquid ones to fill airbrush containers with.
can't comment on what airbrush is the best since I'm a rattle can painter. I usually use duratrax but they had been poop lately on keeping their stock so my secondary's would be Tamiya or Traxxas paint. But for actual liquid paints, Proline has them I believe.
https://www.prolineracing.com/pro-line/paints/
 
can't comment on what airbrush is the best since I'm a rattle can painter. I usually use duratrax but they had been poop lately on keeping their stock so my secondary's would be Tamiya or Traxxas paint. But for actual liquid paints, Proline has them I believe.
https://www.prolineracing.com/pro-line/paints/
Just searched those up, they are expensive compared to others! I'm sure the quality will be top notch on them
 
As for paint-ANY of the Createx paints(Wicked, Candy2o, Fluorescents, etc.), ChromaAir, or Vallejo from SprayGunner. I would STRONGLY steer you away from harbor freight for a brush.. Their cheap HVLP jamb guns are fine for spraying liquid mask, but that’s about it from them.. If you bought an airbrush from them, you’d likely get fed up pretty quick before you could ever actually learn, and move on to an acceptable brush. It’s an investment for sure, but Iwata is TOP NOTCH, the Revolution can be had for under $100, sprays like a dream, is dead nuts reliable, and consistent, and you can buy literally any part you’ll ever need IF you need something..

And fwiw-Proline pains are made by Createx.
 
@Littlemotor knows his stuff. Listen to him. Lol
Thanks brothaman-just know how easily someone new to airbrushing could end up with a bad taste in their mouth from subpar equipment. The learning curve is steep enough with niiiiiiice stuff imo lol.

Again-thanks for the kind words, and I appreciate the vote of confidence my guy. 🤘🍻
 
As for paint-ANY of the Createx paints(Wicked, Candy2o, Fluorescents, etc.), ChromaAir, or Vallejo from SprayGunner. I would STRONGLY steer you away from harbor freight for a brush.. Their cheap HVLP jamb guns are fine for spraying liquid mask, but that’s about it from them.. If you bought an airbrush from them, you’d likely get fed up pretty quick before you could ever actually learn, and move on to an acceptable brush. It’s an investment for sure, but Iwata is TOP NOTCH, the Revolution can be had for under $100, sprays like a dream, is dead nuts reliable, and consistent, and you can buy literally any part you’ll ever need IF you need something..

And fwiw-Proline pains are made by Createx.
Thanks for the info! I think I'll go with an Iwata in that case. Do they have a kit thats not too expensive that comes with a compressor? Which one do you recommend by them, the Revolution?
 
Littlemotor offers some solid advice. I was also debating the black widow hf stuff as my natural tendency is to go cheap 😂. I ended up with no-name compressor and iwata neo brush to start. Was less than going the HF black widow route.

Edit: compressor https://a.co/d/7bDtEWI

Brush https://a.co/d/27rRIGs
 
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Thanks for the info! I think I'll go with an Iwata in that case. Do they have a kit thats not too expensive that comes with a compressor? Which one do you recommend by them, the Revolution?
If you’ve got a few minutes, see for yourself. This guy seriously knows his stuff…

The Neo FOR Iwata:


The Iwata Revolution:


The Iwata Eclipse:


The amount of info, and learning you’ll get from the 6-10min per video is PRICELESS in your situation.

As for a compressor/brush/hose/etc. KIT, I can’t speak on that. What I CAN tell you is that you want a tank style compressor if it’s within your price range. I use a fairly inexpensive unit from Northern Tools atm, and have a spare tankLESS in case this one shiits the bed. That way I can move the tank over to the tankless, and start looking for a bit nicer from SprayGunner or the like.

You’ll also want a 10’ braided hose, and a couple packages of quick disconnects (1/8” airbrush specific), a decent half mask reapirator (I prefer 3M), filters/cartridges that suit YOUR PAINT, and a simple airbrush toolkit that will support YOUR particular airbrush. I use Iwata, but they’re pricey, and you CAN buy the necessary tools from Hobby Lobby, SprayGunner, or Amazon cheaper in a generic brand. The most important stuff here would be a cleaning brush, and whatever tool required to remove/service your nozzle/tip assembly.

Hope this helps! 🍻🤙
 
Littlemotor offers some solid advice. I was also debating the black widow hf stuff as my natural tendency is to go cheap 😂. I ended up with no-name compressor and iwata neo brush to start. Was less than going the HF black widow route.

Edit: compressor https://a.co/d/7bDtEWI

Brush https://a.co/d/27rRIGs
👆 I have the same compressor and airbrush. It doesn't get any better than Iwata, but Paschee and Badger make decent airbrushes too.
 
Years ago (2018), for the little amount of painting I do, I went with a lower budgeted airbrush recommendation... https://tcpglobal.com/products/mas-g23
1723472007353.webp

I only use the thing maybe twice a year. It does what I need it to do. I've never pushed it to it's limits. I only got it to do outlining/pinstriping and custom color shading. If I was more involved in airbrushing, I'd probably opt for the Iwata stuff.
 
Years ago (2018), for the little amount of painting I do, I went with a lower budgeted airbrush recommendation... https://tcpglobal.com/products/mas-g23
View attachment 198971
I only use the thing maybe twice a year. It does what I need it to do. I've never pushed it to it's limits. I only got it to do outlining/pinstriping and custom color shading. If I was more involved in airbrushing, I'd probably opt for the Iwata stuff.
That's my main brush as well. I have another Master brush that does fine for me also. I don't have too many complaints other than the occasional spatter and spit. And the tips are very easily twisted off when very lightly tightening the tip. But they are fine for what I do. But I still want an Iwata because I have seen how much better they spray in the vids I have watched.
 
I hear Hobbynox and Tamiya Sparmax airbrushes are really good for the money. Vastly above the quality of cheapo things and good enough to not cause unnecessary headaches to a newcomer, but also way below the price point of the professional grade tools.

If you get a tankless compressor you can eliminate the pulsing with a fairly small diy tank.
 
I hear Hobbynox and Tamiya Sparmax airbrushes are really good for the money. Vastly above the quality of cheapo things and good enough to not cause unnecessary headaches to a newcomer, but also way below the price point of the professional grade tools.

If you get a tankless compressor you can eliminate the pulsing with a fairly small diy tank.
Dry tank?
 
If you’ve got a few minutes, see for yourself. This guy seriously knows his stuff…

The Neo FOR Iwata:


The Iwata Revolution:


The Iwata Eclipse:


The amount of info, and learning you’ll get from the 6-10min per video is PRICELESS in your situation.

As for a compressor/brush/hose/etc. KIT, I can’t speak on that. What I CAN tell you is that you want a tank style compressor if it’s within your price range. I use a fairly inexpensive unit from Northern Tools atm, and have a spare tankLESS in case this one shiits the bed. That way I can move the tank over to the tankless, and start looking for a bit nicer from SprayGunner or the like.

You’ll also want a 10’ braided hose, and a couple packages of quick disconnects (1/8” airbrush specific), a decent half mask reapirator (I prefer 3M), filters/cartridges that suit YOUR PAINT, and a simple airbrush toolkit that will support YOUR particular airbrush. I use Iwata, but they’re pricey, and you CAN buy the necessary tools from Hobby Lobby, SprayGunner, or Amazon cheaper in a generic brand. The most important stuff here would be a cleaning brush, and whatever tool required to remove/service your nozzle/tip assembly.

Hope this helps! 🍻🤙
Thank you for providing these videos! So I took yours and everyone else's advice. I steered away from the harbor freight airbrush kit. I ended up ordering this compressor: https://a.co/d/dryJzuV and this Iwata airbrush: https://a.co/d/cFz86qy. They arrive tomorrow.

What pressure do you recommend I set the compressor to for painting with that airbrush?

Also wanted to thank everyone for everyone's input! Really appreciate the sense community and help!
 
Last edited:
Thank you for providing these videos! So I took yours and everyone else's advice. I steered away from the harbor freight airbrush kit. I ended up ordering this compressor: https://a.co/d/dryJzuV and this Iwata airbrush: https://a.co/d/cFz86qy. They arrive tomorrow.

What pressure do you recommend I set the compressor to for painting with that airbrush?

Also wanted to thank everyone for everyone's input! Really appreciate the sense community and help!

Nice! I’m sure you’re stoked, and tomorrow can’t get here soon enough now! 😅

That’s a solid compressor for the money for sure. Also a very nice brush. Cannot go wrong with an Eclipse, without question.. And you stepped up to the Takumi version right out of the gate lol. I hotrodded my standard eclipse with a few Takumi parts, such as the crown cap, and main lever (I’ve got some nerve damage, due to a gun accident 40ish yrs ago, and some arthritis) that made a world of difference for me personally. I’ve also got the needle stop handle in my cart on SprayGunner as we speak. That definitely comes in handy when you’re learning for sure. The only possible trade-off I saw for me (again; personally) was the side feed cup.. That’s intended for illustrators so they can do their detail work while having a clear view down the center of the brush to the needle. -something I’m not at all concerned with on 1/8 off-road buggy, and truggy bodies. With these bodies getting seemingly deeper, and narrower with each generation, my main concern is maneuverability while painting. Not a big deal, you just may find yourself using the cup on one side for this side of the body, and on the other, for the other side is all. Again-like I said; not a big deal, and could just fall under personal preference. I think you’ll be super happy with both purchases, and as long as you keep that brush clean between sessions, it’ll literally last you a lifetime.

As for psi-there’s no magic number, but Iwata generally recommends the Eclipse with a .35mm needle be operated between 25-35psi, I wanna say… That will vary based on the type of product you’re spraying, your desired coverage, or effect, as well as how much you reduce said product/how fast you move along your work. Obviously 30psi is an excellent starting point, and make your adjustments from there. Also, when you set your regulator-you may already be aware; set it while depressing the main lever fully. Generally about 4-5psi difference than not depressing it.

Good luck, practice lots, and most importantly HAVE FUN! 🍻🤘

I’m super glad you found “The Art Workshop’s” videos helpful. That guy is insanely talented, and knows his stuff!
 
Nice! I’m sure you’re stoked, and tomorrow can’t get here soon enough now! 😅

That’s a solid compressor for the money for sure. Also a very nice brush. Cannot go wrong with an Eclipse, without question.. And you stepped up to the Takumi version right out of the gate lol. I hotrodded my standard eclipse with a few Takumi parts, such as the crown cap, and main lever (I’ve got some nerve damage, due to a gun accident 40ish yrs ago, and some arthritis) that made a world of difference for me personally. I’ve also got the needle stop handle in my cart on SprayGunner as we speak. That definitely comes in handy when you’re learning for sure. The only possible trade-off I saw for me (again; personally) was the side feed cup.. That’s intended for illustrators so they can do their detail work while having a clear view down the center of the brush to the needle. -something I’m not at all concerned with on 1/8 off-road buggy, and truggy bodies. With these bodies getting seemingly deeper, and narrower with each generation, my main concern is maneuverability while painting. Not a big deal, you just may find yourself using the cup on one side for this side of the body, and on the other, for the other side is all. Again-like I said; not a big deal, and could just fall under personal preference. I think you’ll be super happy with both purchases, and as long as you keep that brush clean between sessions, it’ll literally last you a lifetime.

As for psi-there’s no magic number, but Iwata generally recommends the Eclipse with a .35mm needle be operated between 25-35psi, I wanna say… That will vary based on the type of product you’re spraying, your desired coverage, or effect, as well as how much you reduce said product/how fast you move along your work. Obviously 30psi is an excellent starting point, and make your adjustments from there. Also, when you set your regulator-you may already be aware; set it while depressing the main lever fully. Generally about 4-5psi difference than not depressing it.

Good luck, practice lots, and most importantly HAVE FUN! 🍻🤘

I’m super glad you found “The Art Workshop’s” videos helpful. That guy is insanely talented, and knows his stuff!
I did not know any of that, so thanks for all the tips! I would have for sure set it without depressing the main lever.
 
I did not know any of that, so thanks for all the tips! I would have for sure set it without depressing the main lever.
Absolutely brothaman! And wasn’t thinking you were “speshul”, I always would rather err on the side of OVERexplaining, than the other way around. No worries lol 🍻🤘
 
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