.15 tmaxx wont move just revs up

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Jacobr1620

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I recently bought a .15 tmaxx that had been sitting for 6 years with a stuck engine. I got the engine free and got it to start up but when I try to drive it it just sits still and revs up. I already checked the owb in the trans,the slip clutch,and the bell clutch but nothing seems to be working. any advice is appreciated.

Jacob
 
I recently bought a .15 tmaxx that had been sitting for 6 years with a stuck engine. I got the engine free and got it to start up but when I try to drive it it just sits still and revs up. I already checked the owb in the trans,the slip clutch,and the bell clutch but nothing seems to be working. any advice is appreciated.

Jacob

If that truck has reverse ,it could be quite possible that the shifter is stuck in a neutral state ,or
in between reverse & forward ,what ever mechanism works that part ,make sure that it is working!..:cool:
 
when you say you checked the bell, it is spinning as it should?
definitely good thing to check above as cbaker said. there is a possibility the trans has a stripped gear, or a pin sheared off, but that does require a bit more in depth work then above.
 
Have you checked the shoes inside are working and the spring is in place ?
 
I recently bought a .15 tmaxx that had been sitting for 6 years with a stuck engine. I got the engine free and got it to start up but when I try to drive it it just sits still and revs up. I already checked the owb in the trans,the slip clutch,and the bell clutch but nothing seems to be working. any advice is appreciated.

Jacob
Either the shifter for is not engaged or you broke the pin that holds the primary gears forward/reverse. Check the transmission again. Or the spring on the clutch is broke on the motor.
 
If the spur gear move, it is the transmission, otherwise the clutch. But also make sure the break is not engaged.
 
when you say you checked the bell, it is spinning as it should?
definitely good thing to check above as cbaker said. there is a possibility the trans has a stripped gear, or a pin sheared off, but that does require a bit more in depth work then above.
I pulled apart the transmission twice and watched a few videos and read the manual to insure i was doing it right and everything seems to be in order with no stripped gears or visible issues.


Jacob
 
I pulled apart the transmission twice and watched a few videos and read the manual to insure i was doing it right and everything seems to be in order with no stripped gears or visible issues.


Jacob

There is hidden components inside the trans that you will not know that they are bad!

One is the Pawl ,they have a swinging arm that swings out an catches a pin in a hub ,if the
arm doesn't swing out ,then it is jammed!

Two ,there is a O-way bearing in which consist of tiny needle bearings inside a retainer!
If the retainer cracks or breaks ,the O-way bearing will lose its bite onto its shaft ,or sometimes
the tranny grease will eventually work its way into the bearing an cause slippage ,an if you continue
to try to run it with a slipping O-way ,it will over heat the bearing an finally destroy the needle retainer!
 
There is hidden components inside the trans that you will not know that they are bad!

One is the Pawl ,they have a swinging arm that swings out an catches a pin in a hub ,if the
arm doesn't swing out ,then it is jammed!

Two ,there is a O-way bearing in which consist of tiny needle bearings inside a retainer!
If the retainer cracks or breaks ,the O-way bearing will lose its bite onto its shaft ,or sometimes
the tranny grease will eventually work its way into the bearing an cause slippage ,an if you continue
to try to run it with a slipping O-way ,it will over heat the bearing an finally destroy the needle retainer!
I checked the Pawls by pushing in on one end and they all open up freely. And I tested the owb by holding the shaft and turning the gear and it holds very well
 
I checked the Pawls by pushing in on one end and they all open up freely. And I tested the owb by holding the shaft and turning the gear and it holds very well

There is many things that can cause this issue ,including ,things that dont include really the transmission!

Like loose drive shaft hub pins or grub screws that tighten the shaft to the output shafts on the trans or
to the diffs!
Also ,make sure that the flywheel on the engine is not slipping on the crankshaft ,could be a worn cone
that tightens the flywheel down to the crankshaft!

Check those spots!..:cool:
 
Make sure the shifter fork is pushed all the way in and out. It the shifter servo is not set up correct or servo is bad this will cause problems as you described. Make 100% sure the yoke pin that secures the primary forward/reverse gear isn't broken. If it is the truck is dead.
 
You need to figure out what spins when the engine is running and you rev it.

Flywheel -> clutch bell -> spur gear -> spur gear shaft -> transmission output shaft -> front and rear center shafts -> diff output shafts - > wheel shafts/nuts/tires

There are many pins/set screws between the engine and the ground and not knowing at all where your losing the power just leaves us to blindly guess. Tell us where the power stops and then we can give you a better idea where to look.
 
There is many things that can cause this issue ,including ,things that dont include really the transmission!

Like loose drive shaft hub pins or grub screws that tighten the shaft to the output shafts on the trans or
to the diffs!
Also ,make sure that the flywheel on the engine is not slipping on the crankshaft ,could be a worn cone
that tightens the flywheel down to the crankshaft!

Check those spots!..:cool:
I tried checking everything outside the transmission and its all how it should be so I double checked the Pawls and I didn't know how tight they should be so I loosened the pawl tension screw so it opened easier and now it works! Thanks for the advice.
 
I tried checking everything outside the transmission and its all how it should be so I double checked the Pawls and I didn't know how tight they should be so I loosened the pawl tension screw so it opened easier and now it works! Thanks for the advice.

LOL...I was going to mention that ,those are tender an require only very slight turn to make a change ,you
can also damage the spring by over tightening it ,also ,you have to make sure that the little screw dont
vibrate loose!
Some people also make the mistake by thinking it is the set screw to tighten the hub down to the shaft!
On the AE Mgt's ,the spring tension screw goes in an angle ,the set screw itself goes in straight downward!

But anyway ,I am glad that you figured it out ,great job!...:thumbs-up:
 
Replace the output gears forward and reverse if that's what you adjusted. They are now damaged. They should never be touched ever.
 
Replace the output gears forward and reverse if that's what you adjusted. They are now damaged. They should never be touched ever.
sorry for my misunderstanding, but if it is working properly now, care to elaborate how it is for sure damaged and needs replaced? every part of RC if its screwed or fastened together, is made to be worked on, serviced, replaced, and/or adjusted, those included.

OP - Glad you were able to get it figured and back up and running.
i will say when i had my T-maxx, i would frequently run into issues with the forward and reverse assembly either engaging too harshly and would strip the gears, or the pawl assembly would fail. eventually i did swap over to forward only conversion and never had any real issues with the transmission again. but i was also running a .18 O.S. CVR, so might have just been the bit of extra power that the trans was not happy with.
do lose reverse doing that, but for me was worth the sacrifice for a bit more acceleration and that more jerky gear engagement the pawls give, shaved alot of weight too.
 
Overnighting the adjustment screw on the clutch drive forward or reverse output gear will damage the spring inside putting tension on the paw. in this case it was tighten so much the paw would not engage properly. Now it will engage but not properly. Now factory setting is lost. It should never be adjusted only the 2 speed clutch should need minor adjustments or the same result will happen making the 2 speed useless.
 
can* damage the spring.
if the pawl is engaging at the desired RPM, its working properly.
if its engaging at too high RPM, just need to loosen it at 1/8 of a turn at a time, or if its engaging too soon, tighten it back up a turn or two, factory settings are base settings.
if its not engaging, or engaging when it isnt supposed to throughout its adjustment zone, then its not engaging properly.
factory settings are just that factory settings, able to be adjusted to where the end user wants them.
either way OP got it figured out and is back up and running which is what matters.
 

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