1/10 scale oval pan car racing.

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Iowa crawler

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This is a rabbit hole that probably goes way deeper than I can imagine. If anyone has any links to history, setup or driving 1/12 or 1/10 pan cars please add them to this thread. I know little more than nothing and I am looking for any information. Fortunately for me the carpet oval track I race my other RJ speed cars on is run by a person that has been competing at a national level for almost thirty years. And he runs the race track and manufactures his own chassis.

He is willing to build me a car and teach me to tune and drive it. The chassis is a flat piece of carbon fiber that has been cut out on an CNC machine. He selects all the parts himself. Another benefit to this chassis is it is a super adaptable platform.
First I will run it in the 5 second break out class. Then with a flick of a switch on my transmitter I change it to a Busch light class. So I can race this car in two classes every other Sunday all year long. And I can change the tires and electronics and advance to the rubber tire class with a truck body. They are going twice as fast as the cars I drive now. So I have to get some sereous track time before I get into that.

I’m going to post a copy of the national rule set here. This car will be built to national level competition so I can take it to big events later.

https://www.snowbirdnationals.com/2021classes.htm


It is very confusing to build one of these cars. A number of boutique company’s Build these parts and I’ll include some links here.
These are kinda hand built and are very specific at what they do. And specific to the local track. Because of the popularity of one class or another you gotta talk to the track to figure out what you need. So having a mentor will be very valuable.


https://ovalwerks.com/

http://muddslidemotorsports.com/hdskkitandpa.html

http://www.rjspeed.com/bodies/Bolink/bolink10scale.html

https://pembertonraceworks.com/

https://crrcbullring.com/

I’m sure there are a million more and if anyone know of one post the links.

This is a photo of the chassis. I will have the car built soon.

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kept notes of everything you will be taught. this should be a real eye opener . enjoy
 
This is a cool video.
Watch the guy on the driver stand. That is the guy that designed and built my car. He is going to help me learn to tune and drive it. I’m very excited to get racing at a next level.

Keep your eye on the blue car with the white stripe. That’s Scott. I think he won the race and jumped off the driver stand to self marshal after a crash.

 
The parts are all in, he just has to build it up over the holidays. Then I have to race prep and tune the chassis. Also paint the body. Next race is a couple weeks away. I got a couple body choices in the Busch light class. And the best body is the 1970 Superbird. The rear wing is kinda flimsy so I won’t use that but the body is good. I am going to paint it Plum Crazy Purple. PS10 with a silver backing. Then black on the outside for a vinyl roof. Chrome trim and white numbers.

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I was looking at the break out race results. I started in second place and dropped to forth. My column is the second from the right. This game is about consistency. The winner was between 5.1~5.3 with a 5.6. My times range from 5.1~5.9 and when you see 11.5 that means I went too fast and the lap was not counted. I was going to slow and as I dropped back I tried to speed up and broke out. I need to increase my throttle 1% and always drive in the center of the track. Gonna practice today.
Here is a little set up sheet I found.

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That body looks way too long for that wheelbase. Or is that just the camera angle?
 
It’s a 1970 Plymouth Superbird that thing has a very long trunk. As I progress to faster and faster setup with this chassis the body will get smaller. The is a Busch light body and the next class uses a pickup truck body.
 
The purple did not turn out the shade I was expecting but it is purple enough to represent the Avenger brand.
Still need to do a couple things before I start practicing. This rig is capable of 3.5 second laps. But as a beginner I am going to be racing it in a class called breakout. Only rule is you can’t go faster than 4.99 seconds. So consistent laps is what I’m trying to get. On a regular race the first six places will be separated by .2 seconds.

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This thing basically sits on its left rear tire. Under 1000 grams without the body. I think it’s going to rip. But I am not going to let it rip just yet. About 40% steering and 50% throttle at first. Then tune it to run 5.02 second laps.

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First time on the track. I am not racing it yet. It feels slow because it’s so smooth and fast. It just glides around like nothing almost full throttle.

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Getting dialed in. This is the first time at break out . Can’t go faster than 4.99 seconds per lap.
The 4.199 lap was just seeing how fast it can go. Then I dialed it back .
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This is just amazing. Consistent 3 seconds laps. I started filming after watching for a while. It was going much faster at the beginning. And the laps are so consistent it like .005 between them. Did I mention the driver is ten years old?
They were testing it for motor temp. Going to the snowbird nationals in a couple weeks. This is what the pros look like.

 
I know I have been absent for a while. A lot going on this summer. But I’m getting ready for the winter indoor carpet oval season and just built a really cool car.
It’s called a Hurrikane. And it’s an open wheel pan car. Theses things are really fast. One cell battery and this one has a 25.5 motor but the pro class uses 17.5 motors.

The class is called SK modified and it’s really popular. So the chassis just got approved last week and I’ll be racing it Friday night.

The body is painted with the Traxxas paint and a carbon wrap.

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I Blinked
That was all it took. Someone crashed in turn one as I was headed for turn three. I just took my eye off the car for an instant and hit the wall full speed.
I finally got this thing tuned to run 3.9 second laps and that means full pin all the way. It hit really hard. So hard it took off the right front suspension.
I was actually doing pretty well in the race. Not last at least. The damage was one control arm set and one hub set about fifty bucks it will need to be repaired and then everything will have to be tweaked to get it back up to speed.
It was probably doing thirty miles an hour and came to a full stop. Didn’t even bounce.

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