How to mount a servo to a truck.

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LosiFan143

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I’m fixing up a eBay truck and need to redo the steering and would like to change the servo mount position. I don’t know the names or type ways to mount servos and need some help. I know you can just use servo tape but I’m looking for something a little more permanent. Also, do I need to upgrade the steering bell crank and stuff or can I get away with what’s already there. And do i need a servo saver? Thanks! Pics so you can see.

A1B642B7-C021-4B14-A08D-12E1FF13E847.jpeg
 
Yeah, had the same challenge on the RC10T2 and a GT conversion to electric. Use a set of RPM servo mounts. You'll need to mark and drill the chassis. Recommend attaching the servo mounts to the servo and invert the servo on the bench measuring the center-to-center distance of the mount holes. Then transfer that measurement to the chassis for drilling. Good luck. 'AC'
 
AC gave some good advice there. That was what I was going to suggest as well.

As for the servo saver - for me it depends on the application and the servo. But your steering bellcrank there has a built in adjustable saver, so you're all good.

I'd get a nut on the backside of that ball stud in the servo horn 😉
 
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So I found some RPM servo posts and fit in some random holes already drilled. But now I think I need to turn the steering bellcrank around to reach the newly positioned servo. How do I do that? Also the side with the spring is cracked. Should I replace it? And what kind should I get?

image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg

So I found some RPM servo posts and fit in some random holes already drilled. But now I think I need to turn the steering bellcrank around to reach the newly positioned servo. How do I do that? Also the side with the spring is cracked. Should I replace it? And what kind should I get?

image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg
the HiTec servo is just for reference. I want to get an Eco Power WP120S
 
Here's an image of the completed servo install. Trying to recall but think this was an aftermarket chassis plate that I shortened the wheelbase on by moving back and re-drilling the front clip. Servo install lined up better after doing that. Allowed me to move the servo further outboard for a straight linkage run.

20200211_120502_resize RCT.jpg
 
I would be looking for a low profile servo to keep that arm as straight as possible.
👆 Was going to suggest this as well and if that bell crank piece is actually cracked (as opposed to being purposely split) then yes, Id replace the bellcrank.
 
So I found some RPM servo posts and fit in some random holes already drilled. But now I think I need to turn the steering bellcrank around to reach the newly positioned servo. How do I do that? Also the side with the spring is cracked. Should I replace it? And what kind should I get?

View attachment 161969

View attachment 161970

View attachment 161971

the HiTec servo is just for reference. I want to get an Eco Power WP120S
The crack may not be too much of a concern, just driving it around. But you might see if you can source a replacement.
 
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Here's an image of the completed servo install. Trying to recall but think this was an aftermarket chassis plate that I shortened the wheelbase on by moving back and re-drilling the front clip. Servo install lined up better after doing that. Allowed me to move the servo further outboard for a straight linkage run.

View attachment 161982
Where did you get your steering bellcrank? Or did you already have it in decent condion?
 
Yeah. I’ve seen this one but amain lacked the picture of it installed. The eBay pic looks like it would be perfect. I’ll wait until the current bell crank doesn’t work anymore.
That crack may have happened in an accident where they had the saver set too loose. Snug it down a little. It should hold up for a bit. That is, as long as you don't go all Kevin Talbot on it, or aim for any mailboxes 😉

By the way, that is a pretty nice looking kit!

And AC, if you ever sell yours, I gots dibs bro 😉
 
Where did you get your steering bellcrank? Or did you already have it in decent condion?
Bought the T2 as a roller. Bellcrank in decent condition in the buy. RC10T(series) replacement parts can get pricey. Keep a lookout for a decent affordable slider or roller and get your spares that way. What you don't use, you can part out and sell to recover some of your money.

Oh, Kevin. Thanks for extending the offer. Sold all my RC10T's on Ebay last fall. All I have left are a few pictures and lots of good memories.

Cheers guys. 'AC'
 
Mad at myself for missing that AC. I'd love to get a decent vintage 10T. AE buggies was my favs for a time, but I never did get the truggies.
 
I just found the factory replacement bell crank for $40! Why do these vintage/discontinued parts go for so much on eBay? Here’s a link if anyone wants to buy it: #7255
 
I just found the factory replacement bell crank for $40! Why do these vintage/discontinued parts go for so much on eBay? Here’s a link if anyone wants to buy it: #7255
Because they aren't made anymore, and people restoring the vintage RC's will pay an arm and a leg for new old stock.
 
Mad at myself for missing that AC. I'd love to get a decent vintage 10T. AE buggies was my favs for a time, but I never did get the truggies.
Hey, Kev. Yeah, they went quick. All but one went in one day. The exception being the RC10T4. That took two days.

Yeah, LosiFan parts can add up quickly on a retro rebuild-esp. RC10B's and T's. Be worth it when it's done, though. Cheers. 'AC'
 
...the HiTec servo is just for reference. I want to get an Eco Power WP120S
I'm 99% sure JX Servo is the OEM for those EcoPower servos. The casing; packaging; specs, and gearsets are the same, or in the case of the specs... real close to the JX Servo CLS5830HV-V2. I've used and abused that servo in a 1/8 scale monster truggy for over a year before the gears wore out and chipped a tooth or two. The good part is the gearsets are around $6.
 

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