Team Associated B74.1D 4WD Buggy build

[DavidB1126]

Is it just me or was the first video with the wheels on looking funny because when he turned with the wheels on the a-arms got raised up?

hey David, do you want to play Forza Horizon 5 together at some point? My Xbox username is SkywalkerLJD. I would love to play it with you because I don't really have any friends who like to play it or they can't get it for free from Xbox game pass.

The arms go up because I don't have the shocks on and also because of the sway bars. If you lift one arm the other will go up slightly.

Sure we can play forza. I don't have xbox game pass tho, In order to play online I think you need game pass which I want to get. I got a Xbox gift card which I should use over break.
The games I have currently are Forza Horizon 5 and 4 and a hot wheels game.

Here is the protek fan. It is super loud and loud means faster and cooler.

 

[DavidB1126]

Body Velcro is on the chassis. Going to do the shocks and should be a roller.

Also I just wanted to see on how some of the ESC fits. This is the HW Max10 SCT 120a esc. I had to took the ESC tray off so it can fit. My max10 60a from the rustler should fit better.

Or I can but a Traxxas xl5 brushed system in.

 

[pl9171]

Also I just wanted to see on how some of the ESC fits. This is the HW Max10 SCT 120a esc. I had to took the ESC tray off so it can fit. My max10 60a from the rustler should fit better. View attachment 156995
Or I can but a Traxxas xl5 brushed system in.

Ok, interesting.
A pretty good fit was my old HW 80A ESC; small, lightweight, compact but only 80 amps...

Good for 13,5T but not for 10,5T. So we did outdoor (carpet) buggy 1/10 races last summer with my 10,5T and I blow the ESC...

The output of a 10,5t is around 73amp and the outdoor temp was around 38 Celcius... With Boost timing + turbo timing around 48 degres,. the ESC was going to die...
HW 160 amps is still a safe choice.

 

[ahr43]

Concur with pl9171. HW 80A ESC is a good one. Used it on my Rustler R1E speed runner with HW 10.5T. 7.6V 2S HV LiPo. Never encountered any issues. That said, my runs were very short duration. For 13.5T should run all day all night no issues. Small footprint. Makes it ideal for mid-motor installs. 'AC'

 

[DavidB1126]

I had limited my ESC/motor choices to 2. First is the hobbywing xr10 pro G2 13.5. Second is try to find a used HW V3.1 and a 13.5 motor. With these ESC options it will allow me to upgrade to mod in the future which I think is anywhere from 4.5 to 8.5 motors. As with the xr10 pro stock spec and xr10 justock those can only do up to 10.5 motors.

Also I am wondering if I can use a 2s LiHV packs with my Max10 60a esc. That ESC can do up to 3s lipo. What I plan is put the max10 60a and 3652 motor in the B74 just to see how it drives. I am seeing if the ESC does LiHV packs because I don't know if my local track stocks normal 7.4 shorty lipos.
I am going down to the track on Friday and if I order online I don't think it will be here in time.

 

[pl9171]

. That ESC can do up to 3s lipo. What I plan is put the max10 60a and 3652 motor in the B74 just to see how it drives. I am seeing if the ESC does LiHV packs because I don't know if my local track stocks normal 7.4 shorty lipos.

Not a lot of space for a LIVH pack on any 1/10 Buggy... More than that, I won't run a LIVH pack on this buggy.

 

[DavidB1126]

Here is a spare ESC my uncle has. It is a HW V2.1 esc that he used in his 15 xb4. I am going to see if he can let me use it to get me up and running.

 

[pl9171]

Just for sharing (like I said earlier...) Spec indoor race dirt buggy 1/10 sheet 2.0 (second season)

The suspension specs are huge for good traction and control;

Ball spaces + mount + arm adjustments (especially front arm B.- inside low) are keys setting (IMO).
But, with this setting I am running slick tires in front (blue) and half thread tires in the rear (silver) for good traction.
I am still amazed by all the racers difference between used tires (or not...) before each sessions (Q1,Q2,Main...)
Diff height does not not change a lot in performance. But I can't run +3 (dogbone popped...) Front runners are at + 3...
PL

 

[DavidB1126]

Going to put in the max10 from my rustler just to get started and run some laps at the track, not racing.

 

[DavidB1126]

Buggy is coming together. Don't mind my zip ties, rubber bands and tape lol. Got the motor in. Also got the ESC in just need to finish up wiring. Also put in the factory team 20 tooth pinion. After this I need to do shocks and paint body and should be all good. This is a 4000 KV motor so it will be a little faster than the 13.5 but it is also senseless not sensored so I'm not sure. I'll be surprised if they do let me run in the stock class with this combo. If they do, to make it fair I will probably gear down on the pinion. Also since the motor is in a different direction now I have to go into the ESC settings and put the motor direction clockwise. Also might change other settings. Next time and probably the only time that I can go down to the track in the next couple of weeks is next Friday and I don't think I will get my competition electronics in by then so I just put the max10 in.

Honestly. I do want to go with mod. The only way is by the xr10 pro g2 which is 300 dollars. Cause of money, I will get the xr10 justock 13.5 or the xr10 pro stock spec. 60a vs 80a. I think the 80a will be better.

 

[DavidB1126]

Never mind. Will probably get this and a 13.5 or 6.5 motor separate.

 

[DavidB1126]

Got the less expensive electronics in. Did a ok job wiring. The motor wires don't clear the body tho. Might just run with out the body Or I might use normal body clips instead of the Velcro. Maybe using the body clips will clear the wires? Also I need to clear wires away from the center diff. Or might get those rubber wire protector sleeves.

 

[DavidB1126]

I had just got done the shocks. My uncles shock stand and pliers were helpful. Next is paint the body, dial in camber and toe and other parts, competition electronics. So this will be last of the couple posts on this thread. The 2.0 built thread will be about racing and what I do to set up and more.

Kit setup calls for 40wt in the front and 35 in the rear. Will probably change oil in the future.

 

[DavidB1126]

Alrighty going down to the track tomorrow for testing and tuning and just get a feel for the buggy. Have the HW 60a max10 with the 3652 4000 KV motor. Ordered the HW XR10 Pro 2s legacy (the screenshot above), HW V10 G4 13.5 motor and lastly, Xpert 4000 series servo. All should be here next week and I will have my uncle solder up the motor and battery connections. Also I had just painted up the body. Keeping the wing clear for now. Did blue, silver and orange like the other cars I have. I had ran out of white cover coat so I will run with out that. Did kinda rush the paint job but still looks good. Also added alot of stickers cuz I like stickers.

Also painted the losi mini b body too. For the mini b I got the Jconcepts F2 body I believe. Might be the S2 can't remember.

 

[Doom!]

Hope she handles well for you.

 

[DavidB1126]

Got the Velcro on. Really liking the body and the blue anodized parts. The body looks a little funky because of the motor wires but with the competition electronics, the wires are angled so the body will be straight.

 

[DavidB1126]

Got to the track today. First time at that track too. All indoor clay. The owner, Mimi is nice . practice was 21.60 for the day. The lap system goes unknown driver since this is my first time there. Next time I'm there I'll have them hook up my name and class into the system. The JConcepts ellipse silvers are ok. They don't hook up the best but it gets the job done. I did have a few issues with the car. 1 body falls off. Probably due to the Velcro and the motor wires going straight up. 2. Velcro doesn't like to stick to the body. 3 certain screws back out. Had 3 steering hub screws came loose. Put threadlocker on them so that should help. Also ran the rustler so I switched the clay buggy tires on those. Got lunch and meeting up with family so idk if I am going to go back today. The only next days I can go down is Saturdays and they are racing Saturdays at noon so we will see. Fastest lap with the buggy was 26 so I definitely need to work on that. Esc motor and servo came in so I am going to give those to my uncle to solder up.

 

[DavidB1126]

Last night I set up my station at the dining room table and installed the new servo. Servo fit nicely with the mount. Feels nice when turning and is a bit faster than the OMG one I had in before.

Today my uncle came over and got some soldering done. We got done soldering the motor wires. Going to come back in a few days for the battery bullets since we need a way to route them. With his xray he had enough of space to run it below the center driveshaft. With mine I don't have that extra space. Might have a buddy of mine print these out or might just get nylon clips from harbor frieght or something. Don't want to get the battery wires in the way of the spur gear / center diff. Also forgot to mention what I got.

Hobbywing XR10 Pro 160a ESC (Legacy version)
Hobbywing V10 G4 13.5 motor
Xpert 4000 series high speed servo
He says, not the best soldering but gets the job done. Also I do have to tape the external capacitors to the chassis. This reminds me to get more 3M double sided tape. I do have this Protek Servo tape but not sure if thats going to work.
Hobbywing gives alot of extra wires. Had to cut them down alot. He also tried to wire it all up to almost exactly like his xray.

 

[ahr43]

Getting her close to run time, young man. Yeah, electronics is a tight fit on these mid-motor chassis. The components fit (just). It's the wiring that presents the hassle. You two are managing it o.k. 'AC'

 

[DavidB1126]

Yesterday my uncle came over to Dremel out a stripped screw I had on one of the bashers. He also soldered up my battery bullets. What I did is just zip tied the battery cables to the center diff thing (carbon fiber plate). Turned it on, recalibrated the ESC and ran it in the basement. It is sooo different from the bashers. 1 because it is 4wd and this is my first 4wd car. Also because of the sensored motor. So smooth and low speeds or low Rpms. Also less cogging at low Rpms. This completes this build thread. I believe I created a 2.0 thread which is for some running videos and change to the setup.

I just got in a pack of Velcro for the body so I will install that. I also taped on the external compactors. For those who are wondering. The zip ties do not touch the spur gear or center diff so all of good.
Thread 'Team Associated B74.1D 4WD buggy build 2.0' https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/team-associated-b74-1d-4wd-buggy-build-2-0.136947/