XT60 and XT90 connector questions.

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biggman100

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If i run two 2S lipo's together to make 4S in a Losi TEN-SCTE, with a HobbyWing Xerun SCT Pro ESC, and 4274 2200KV motor, will the XT60's that are already on the batteries and ESC be sufficient, or, do i have to swap to XT90's? If i have to swap to XT90's, so that i dont have to convert all of my cars to XT90's, can i just use adapter's to go from the XT90's on the batteries to the XT60's on those cars (mostly 2WD SCT's and 2WD buggies), or, do i have to replace them all? With as many currently running vehicles as i have, and some being brushed, i dont want to have to spend the extra expense of swapping them all to XT90, unless it is absolutely necessary. I also dont want to spend the money on a single 4S for just that one truck, since it wont be ran a lot, and will be the only 4S truck i own. I currently have about a dozen 2WD SCT's and buggies, and 3 MT's, and only 3 of those are 4WD (i am not really a fan of 4WD to begin with, but, winter in the northeast makes its hard to run 2WD), two of which are staying 2S.
 
I'll bet you could use xt60 for everything, not ideal, but I've seen 1/8 4s buggies use deans 🤷🏻‍♂️

Give xt60s a run and if they get hot, switch to xt90s.
 
I'll bet you could use xt60 for everything, not ideal, but I've seen 1/8 4s buggies use deans 🤷🏻‍♂️

Give xt60s a run and if they get hot, switch to xt90s.
I learned my lesson with dean's quite awhile ago, when a couple of them melted on 3S in a couple of road cars i had. My biggest concern with the XT60's is that i read they are only good for 60A continuous, and, i am pretty sure that with just one 2S, that is pretty close to the lower limit for what they run, but, since it seems some companies have odd ways of rating things, I'm never sure what works with what. I know that, according to what i read, the XT60 is for 60A, and the XT90 is for 90A, but, how much amperage does the ESC actually use when running is where i sometimes get lost, because even though most ESC's give at least a baseline for it, others, even from the same company dont, and the one thing i read that said match the connector to the rated amps of the ESC doesn't always work, because, if that were the case, then for say a 120A ESC, you would need a 120A connector, and i am not even sure there is such a thing. The biggest issue i have always had with it is all the conflicting info that is out there, so, typically, i just do trial and error, and learn that way.
 
I learned my lesson with dean's quite awhile ago, when a couple of them melted on 3S in a couple of road cars i had. My biggest concern with the XT60's is that i read they are only good for 60A continuous, and, i am pretty sure that with just one 2S, that is pretty close to the lower limit for what they run, but, since it seems some companies have odd ways of rating things, I'm never sure what works with what. I know that, according to what i read, the XT60 is for 60A, and the XT90 is for 90A, but, how much amperage does the ESC actually use when running is where i sometimes get lost, because even though most ESC's give at least a baseline for it, others, even from the same company dont, and the one thing i read that said match the connector to the rated amps of the ESC doesn't always work, because, if that were the case, then for say a 120A ESC, you would need a 120A connector, and i am not even sure there is such a thing. The biggest issue i have always had with it is all the conflicting info that is out there, so, typically, i just do trial and error, and learn that way.
I use xt60 connectors on my 140 amp HW max10 g2 2400kv combo on 4s. Works perfectly and the connectors don’t get hot
 
You could always do xt90 at the esc, and xt60 at the batteries if your making a jumper.
Dont know if that is any better, but it an option
 
I'll bet you could use xt60 for everything, not ideal, but I've seen 1/8 4s buggies use deans 🤷🏻‍♂️

Give xt60s a run and if they get hot, switch to xt90s.
That would be me as to what I'd do in this situation.

I've used Dean T-plugs for ages. I've (and many other people) even used them on eBuggy platforms running 4S. Lots of 4S LiPo packs used to come with Deans already connected. I even tried to see how many amps I could pull during some hard running with my 1/8 scale buggy... using 3S/4S LiPo packs with Deans running a 4268 2650kV motor. I could never get above 84 amps with 3S and buggy geared correctly. On 4S, and dropping a couple of teeth on the pinion gear... ??? Sorry, didn't record results.

1684699524007.jpeg

Pushing our luck... that was back then. Nowadays, I'm pretty sure most of us "upped our game" when it comes to LiPo battery connectors.
 
You could always do xt90 at the esc, and xt60 at the batteries if your making a jumper.
Dont know if that is any better, but it an option
I might end up getting stuck doing this for a bit, except in reverse. I need a couple new 2S batteries anyway, and I'm looking at Liperior 5000MAH 40C ones, but, they already have XT90 connectors on them (so far, the only 2S 40C and up batteries i found with XT60 connectors are ZEEEE batteries), so ill probably, at least for now, just get adapters to run them with my ESC's, since they already have XT60's on them.
 
4S is very efficient, in fact I have ran 6S with Deans without any failures... only problem I've had with Deans are 2S on SCT which pulls way too much current with a 4600KV motor.

That said for a 2200KV motor on 4S, Deans and/or XT60 will do perfectly fine.
 
4S is very efficient, in fact I have ran 6S with Deans without any failures... only problem I've had with Deans are 2S on SCT which pulls way too much current with a 4600KV motor.

That said for a 2200KV motor on 4S, Deans and/or XT60 will do perfectly fine.
I decided i am going a completely different route with it. I am going to either sell the 4274, and get a 3652SL 4600KV or another 3656 4700KV, or trade that motor for one of those 2, and just run it 2S. I have read a bunch of stuff about how when running batteries in pairs, about rotating them, and how they dont last as long that way, as well as them only lasting a few months, that, at least to me, its not worth the headaches and hassles. I also found out that the XeRun SCT PRO ESC i have is dying, and, stupidly, i sold the two WP-SC8's i had, so, now I've got to get another ESC.
 
Going 2S will be more expensive in the long run as the 2S batteries will be less efficient and be worked harder pushing more than double the current which will create excess heat and cause the batteries to wear out faster and need replacement sooner than 4S
 
IMO there's very little difference between a 4s in a single pack and 4s in two packs connected by an extra wire (namely, a miliohm or so of resistance in the middle). And I never heard a reasonable scientifically backed explanation on the difference between a cell being the first vs last cell in the pack. The current through all of them is the same by definition.
 
IMO there's very little difference between a 4s in a single pack and 4s in two packs connected by an extra wire (namely, a miliohm or so of resistance in the middle). And I never heard a reasonable scientifically backed explanation on the difference between a cell being the first vs last cell in the pack. The current through all of them is the same by definition.

The SMC article I referenced above does a great job explaining the problems with running packs in series... you increase IR across the lead between the packs which in turn generates heat. You can "scientifically" measure the temps of both packs at the end of a run to see for yourself that the pack on the true negative side will be hotter which is the pack that is getting more stress per the logic explained by SMC.
 
I've seen that article before but I'm not convinced. Haven't found anything like that mentioned literally anywhere else on the internet (I thought it would pop up in articles about EV batteries which have hundreds of cells).

There is a chance one of the packs constantly sees higher temps; the bottom one if stacked horizontally or one closer to motor/esc.
 
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I've seen that article before but I'm not convinced. Haven't found anything like that mentioned literally anywhere else on the internet (I thought it would pop up in articles about EV batteries which have hundreds of cells).

There is a chance one of the packs constantly sees higher temps; the bottom one if stacked horizontally or one closer to motor/esc.

Then use your science to flip the polarity and pack alignment to prove your theory, you have everything there to confirm what SMC has published, they are very reputable and not "blowing smoke", ha!
 
Going 2S will be more expensive in the long run as the 2S batteries will be less efficient and be worked harder pushing more than double the current which will create excess heat and cause the batteries to wear out faster and need replacement sooner than 4S
All of my stuff is already 2S, so, for me, it wouldnt be more expensive to just stay with 2S. It would ultimately be more expensive to go 4S, since, that means battery (or, adapters to run 2 2S), motor, and ESC, just to run one truck on 4S occasionally. For the Losi, yes, i need a new ESC because the current one went bad, but, i already have the motor, and 6 2S batteries, and, the ESC I'm looking at (WP-SC8), i can get for $65.
 

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